TRD Pro Skid Plate w/ diff drop

Photofucket is crapping out so I can't get to the pics of my spacers and I checked posts and found where I talked about it, but not the actual details. But I used 1" spacers in the back, and 1/2" in the front and then got equally longer bolts.

RZ Rob

 

Appreciate the info. When I pull it apart I'll decide if I want to go this route or remove the drop.

 

My rationale for going with the drop was that I knew the lift was straining the CV boots at the least and I can't understand what the bad side of the diff drop is - but I guess it's every man for himself. FWIW I've had mine in place for right at a year with no issues. Doing nothing seemed like a sure way to invite wear least.

RZ Rob

 

The arrow is going to the aluminum spacer. You can also see the TRD Pro skid plate. The skid plate does not attach to the diff support and after lowering the diff, there is still about 1/2" between the support and the skid plate.

 

This is the same thing I was thinking. I'm 20k miles in with no issues.

 

Where did you get the aluminum spacers?

 

Well, I'm sure I'm about to get blasted on here because of all the Toytech fanboys, but I bought the Rough Country 3" lift WITH the struts (as opposed to the spring spacers). It came with the diff spacers.

*AND PLEASE, (to anyone else reading) do not start a debate about the different brands of lifts. I like mine fine.... lol (and it was less than $500...)

 

Haha no worries... everybody has their own preference and budget.

 

BTW, I got the spacers at McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers/=19r78ra

RZ Rob

 

perfect, thanks

 

Here's the letter I sent to ToyTec to document what I did:

Hi Justin,

I got the skid plate on and wanted to share with you so hopefully you can assemble a kit for these folks as it was a bit of a PITA figuring it out on my own.

The TRD Pro skid plate is held on by 6 bolts which thread directly into the frame of the truck. 4, 12mm 1.25 pitch and 2 8mm regular thread.

The 12mm factory bolts include spacers to clear the frame channel, and all 6 bolts have speed nuts (press on) to hold the bolt/spacer into the skid plate.

The front 2 12mm bolts and spacers I left as is (I tried spacers, but it looked silly from front of vehicle with skid plate hanging down)

The middle ones took all the thinking. I replaced the stock bolts with an M12 –1.25 x 100mm and added a 1/2” spacer (your spacers drilled out). I added a flat heavy washer to the head of the bolt before sliding it through skid plate, then put the 1/2” spacer (because of the bigger OD) against the plate, then slid the stock spacer back on, then held the assembly together with a speed nut (I re-used the speed not (hard to salvage upon removal but I did)).

For the very back, I had to use a longer bolt and heavy washer (before sliding bolt through skid plate) and add a 1” spacer 8mm I.D. In this case I was able to use 5/16 speed nuts to hold the bolt and spacer combo together.

To install I started with the two fronts and just made sure they had good solid threading (5-6 turns). Then I slid my floor jack under and eased the skid plate up, finessing the bolts into the middle holes. Because of the speed nuts, you can’t jack the skid plate all the way into position. You need to pull it into place with the bolts. Once I had the center two started, and threaded in at least 5-6 turns, I went back to the front ones and worked them to most [but not all] of the way in.

Then I focused on the middle two and drew those up until the back bolts started to touch the frame. At this point locate the hole in the frame and thread the back two 8mm bolts in making sure they’re not cross threading or binding.

Now, with all 6 bolts started, I went back to the middle two and drew them up most of the way, and switched between these and the back two and eventually went back to the front two and snugged them up.

I’m not crazy about the 1” spacer on the 8mm bolts and you could probably get away with a 1/2” spacer (and slightly shorter bolt), but you’d be bowing the skid plate more than I was comfortable with, and if you ever removed the skid plate it might go “twang.”

I confirmed the skid plate is NOT hitting the diff drop. It clears by enough to pass a piece of Mylar folded in half easily through. Plus, the skid plate doesn’t look modified from the front of the truck.

Materials added:

2 12mm-1.25 x 100mm hex bolts
2 8mm- (regular thread) x 60mm hex bolts
2 5/16” heavy washers
2 1/2” heavy washers
2 12mm speed nuts (re-using stock ones is a PITA)
2 8mm speed nuts (re-using stock ones is a PITA)
2 1/2” long x 12mm I.D. aluminum spacers
2 1” long x 8mm I.D. aluminum spacers

Rob

 

Gen 3 Diff is the same thing as gen 2. It does not lower it, it rotates it

 

It should be noted that in rotating the diff, the internals do not get lubricated properly after the diff drop it is installed leading to premature wear and tear and, eventually, failure. Just my .02...

 

I had a Diff Drop on my Gen II for over 10 years and I know not what you mean about premature wear. You got anything to back that statement up?

RZ Rob

 

A lot of research when I was looking to lift my Tacoma. Also note that I have NOT had a diff drop on my truck and I have had a lift for over 20k miles without any issues.

 

This is kind of silly...... Unless you are only driving on a completely flat surface forever, your truck is in a constant state of changing front to back angles.... Even on an interstate.

Well, I guess we chalk to back up to personal preference because I have 20k in my gen3 WITH the diff drop with no issues. To the point of the original post, YES the TRD Pro skid plate will mount on the truck with no issues if the you lower the diff 1".

 

DIFF DROP KITS ARE AN INSIDE JOB!!!

 

I can believe this.

RZ Rob

 

Ok, if I did choose to remove the diff drop, will I need shorter bolts?

This question has a yes or no answer only lol.