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TRD S/C Maintenance How-To

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by SManZ, Jun 1, 2014.

  1. Jun 1, 2014 at 6:12 PM
    #1
    SManZ

    SManZ [OP] el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

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    Maintenance for the 1GR-FE TRD S/C
    This is a how-to for the nose drive oil change, impeller bearing re-grease, drive coupler replacement, and drive belt replacement. I was really frustrated with having to hunt all over the place for all the specifics, so here it is all in one place.

    TRD claims that the S/C is a 100Kmi maintenance free unit but regular maintenance will obviously extend the life. I did this at 60Kmi on the S/C and it was my first time.

    The g/f wanted note for helping so yep, she helped snake the drive belt around the pulleys, cleaned the air box and intake, held the flashlight last night and put up with all my f!*%s and $h!#s :p


    Parts

    [​IMG]
    For nose drive oil, coupler replacement, and needle bearing grease;
    I sourced mine from ZZ Performance
    (http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/63-Supercharger-Coupler.aspx)
    If you do not have the syringe with tubing I recommend you get the full kit.
    You will need some sealant; Permatex RTV silicone for either water pump/thermostat housings or black RTV will work
    I opted for a polyurethane coupler instead of the OEM spring style and the S/C is much quieter.
    Needle bearing grease; http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/258-Needle-Bearing-Grease.aspx

    [​IMG]
    Nose drive oil is GM Supercharger oil, P/N 12345982
    It comes in 4oz bottles and all sources I found called for 6oz, however the oil came out of the fill port after I put in 5oz.

    [​IMG]
    You can get a replacement S/C drive belt from TRD but it will only last about 10Kmi before it needs replacement. The Goodyear Gatorbacks last longer and I had about 25Kmi on this one. Considering that swapping it out is a mild pain I strongly recommend against the TRD belts.


    Tools
    3/8” & 1/2" ratchet
    6 & 12” extensions
    10mm socket & combination wrench
    12mm socket
    14mm socket
    13mm combination wrench
    3/8” flex joint
    3/16” allen key bit & driver
    Syringe w/ flex tube
    Hard plastic mallet
    Large flathead screwdriver
    Paper towels
    Brake parts cleaner

    Oil Change
    If you’re just changing nose drive oil and nothing else its really easy…

    [​IMG]
    With a 3/16” bit and driver, remove the plug at the fill port (circled in red), directly below the manifold.

    [​IMG]
    Suck the old oil out, clean your syringe, fill with new. You do not want to spill any of the old oil. It reeks.

    [​IMG]
    Everything I found says that the TRD S/C is an Eaton M90 variant and takes 6oz of GM S/C oil. Mine started flowing out of the fill port after about 5oz and there was less than that in there from the factory, so I’m not sure what the deal is here. I left the 5oz in there and will recheck at my next oil change. There are only 2 drive gears in the nose drive and the coupler…I can’t imagine anything catastrophic happening from having 1/2oz too much in there.

    If you want to clean the nose drive, regrease impeller bearings, and/or change the coupler, read below…


    S/C Drive Belt Change/Removal
    I didn’t remove the radiator fan and fan shroud and wasted a lot of time trying to work around it. I really recommend doing this first.

    Take a flathead screwdriver and pop the centers out of the nine plastic pop rivets that hold the plastic cover over the radiator. Use a 10mm wrench and remove the four nuts that hold the pink hub to the fan clutch. Use a 10mm socket to remove the four bolts that hold the fan shroud to the radiator. You should be able to remove the shroud and fan together and have a lot more room to work.

    Go to the driver’s side wheel well and remove the rubber flap that covers the front driver’s side of the engine.

    [​IMG]
    You need to find the arm for the tensioner pulley. It is below the oil filter and large coolant hose.

    [​IMG]
    Insert a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar into the end of the tensioner arm and push down. It helps to have someone else slip the belt off the top drive pulley while you release the tension on the belt. Watch your fingers. If you release tension on the belt while you have your fingers between it and a pulley wheel it will suck.

    Slip the belt off the top pulleys and pull all the slack down to the lowest pulley.

    [​IMG]
    To completely remove the belt you must remove the tensioner assembly. Remove the two 14mm nuts that are infront of the two pulleys and the 12mm bolt from the driver’s side wheel well.

    [​IMG]
    If the 14mm nuts are seized and the studs start to come out its ok. You can hold the stud with a short flat blade screwdriver while you back the nut off with a wrench. To secure the stud again, use the flathead or install a second nut onto the stud, tighten one against the other, and drive the outer one.

    [​IMG]
    If the S/C pulleys fall off the studs, they’re supposed to be installed like this. The snap ring on the pulley faces towards the engine.

    [​IMG]
    Installation is the reverse. Follow the routing diagram for the S/C belt. Remember…flat side of the belt goes on flat pulleys, ribbed side to ribbed pulleys.

    If you’re going to replace the coupler, clean the nose drive, and/or regrease impeller bearings, continue below…
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  2. Jun 1, 2014 at 6:12 PM
    #2
    SManZ

    SManZ [OP] el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

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    Removing the Nose Drive Assy
    This really isn’t that hard, trust me ;)
    [​IMG]
    Here’s what you’ll start and finish with

    You should already have sucked out the nose drive oil and removed the S/C drive belt.

    [​IMG]
    Remove whatever intake you have attached to the throttle body.

    Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake manifold on the S/C. You can disconnect the electrical connector if you want. Do not remove either of the hoses on the bottom of the throttle body. Tuck the throttle body out of the way.

    [​IMG]
    Remove the three 12mm bolts that hold the upper set of pulleys to the S/C body.

    [​IMG]
    Remove the 10mm bolt on the right side of the intake manifold

    [​IMG]
    Remove the 10mm bolts around the face of the nose drive. There are a few under the intake manifold that you will need to use a 10mm socket and extension to reach


    [​IMG]
    There is a 10mm bolt under the fill port. You will need to remove the sensor to get to it. Either remove the 10mm bolt and nut that holds the sensor to the bracket or remove the 10mm nut that holds the bracket to the oil filler.


    [​IMG]
    Remove the 10mm bolt to the right of the nose drive pulley. It is under the bend at the intake manifold. This bolt is longer than all the others so remember that it goes back here.

    [​IMG]
    Finally, use a 13mm wrench to remove the nut. It’s an unusual size. Perhaps some attempt to make you go crying to the dealer for help?


    [​IMG]
    Put paper towels under the nose drive. Hold the intake manifold and pull it away from the S/C body. It should come off pretty easily, exposing the nose drive.

    Unless you’re regreasing the impeller bearings, skip the next section

    Removing the Impeller Assy
    Use a hard plastic mallet to tap sharply around the silver nose drive housing. Then, tap hard against the lip (highlighted red above) until the nose drive housing separates from the S/C body. Keep tapping until it separates enough to get a flathead screwdriver or small pry bar between the housing and the S/C body at the points highlighted orange above. I recommend that if you pry with a screwdriver, do it gently and only against the outer edge of the bolt holes, so you don’t mess up the sealing surfaces. Take your time and slowly work your way around to separate the housing from the S/C body. Eventually, the entire thing will just slide out, with the impellers. Don’t worry about indexing the gears or impellers; they will not fall out.

    [​IMG]
    Oooohhhh…


    [​IMG]
    Clean the grease off the rear of the impeller, circled orange Look inside the S/C body where the two impeller axles fit in. There are two needle bearings back there that need to be cleaned. Remove as much grease as you can with a shop towel and then keep turning the needle bearings to bring out more old grease. Clean and repeat until you’re satisfied. Put some grease on your finger and press it into the needle bearings. Turn the bearings with your finger, regrease, repeat until you’re satisfied. There is a special grease for this purpose, linked above in the parts list.

    [​IMG]
    Neat stuff :D


    Replacing the Nose Drive Coupler
    The coupler will slide right off the prongs. You can clean both sides of the nose drive with brake parts cleaner. Make sure it has all evaporated before reassembling anything. The interior of mine was dirty and I’m glad I cleaned it.

    If you use a polyurethane coupler, it will be a tight fit. Use some supercharger oil to lubricate the prongs on the nose drive and gently tap it onto the intake manifold side. The prongs on the impeller side stick out further so it is easier to reassemble with the coupler on the manifold side.


    [​IMG]
    If you are replacing the nose drive coupler with a spring type like the OEM one, make sure the prongs go on the correct side of the spring, highlighted red.


    [​IMG]
    The spring on my coupler was sticking out of the plastic housing. I’m not sure if this was the source of the excessive rattling noise I was getting but the whole thing ran much better after it was replaced.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
    6xchamps likes this.
  3. Jun 1, 2014 at 6:13 PM
    #3
    SManZ

    SManZ [OP] el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

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    Reassembly
    [​IMG]
    Put some brake parts cleaner on a towel and clean any excess grease from the inside of the S/C body. Put a small bead of sealant around base of the nose drive housing, marked in red.


    [​IMG]
    Slide the housing back into the S/C body by hand first. The prongs on the nose drive should be on the right. It is a tight fit and the impeller lobes need to be oriented just right before it will slide into the housing. Once the impellers are inside the housing and the outer edge of the nose drive housing mates with the S/C body you can start to tap it in with the mallet.


    [​IMG]
    Run a small bead of sealant around the mating surface of the manifold side of the nose drive. Do not use sealant on the intake port – there is a gasket on the S/C body for this.

    Lube the prongs on the nose drive and index them to the coupler on the manifold side. Install the manifold and wiggle it a bit to seat the prongs into the coupler.

    Reinstall all bolts for the manifold, the sensor, etc.

    Replace the upper set of pulleys with the three 12mm bolts, replace the belt, reinstall the throttle body, intake, and you’re done!

    Removing the Charge Air Cooler (Intercooler) and S/C Unit
    If you need to remove the entire supercharger, follow the steps above to remove the belt and upper set of pulleys first.

    [​IMG]
    Remove all the 10mm bolts that hold the intercooler to the S/C body. It is not necessary to remove the coolant hoses. Pop the intercooler out. If you don’t have a catch can it will probably be covered in an oily muck. You can use brake parts cleaner to get it off.
    I always get asked; the vacuum hose circled in read goes to the boost gauge. If you’re installing a boost gauge, this is where you get your reading.

    There are six bolts below the intercooler and a few more around the unit that hold it onto the motor. As far as I can tell, removing the S/C unit is the only way to get to the driver’s side spark plug that is closest to the firewall :(
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  4. Jun 1, 2014 at 6:42 PM
    #4
    TRON

    TRON Well-Known Member

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    Nice write up!!
     
  5. Jun 1, 2014 at 6:44 PM
    #5
    Large

    Large Red

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    Good work, very detailed
     
  6. Jun 1, 2014 at 9:16 PM
    #6
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Wizard Sleeve Master

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    Kick ass my friend. Thank you for the write up!! This is an excellent guide, already linked on XR site. So the Poly coupler is much quieter - good to know.
     
  7. Jun 1, 2014 at 9:59 PM
    #7
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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    Great write up Sir!!!
     
  8. Jun 1, 2014 at 10:19 PM
    #8
    mike92y

    mike92y Well-Known Member

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    OME all around. TRD Supercharger. MIsc stuff.
    Thank you so much. I was really wonder about this. I have about 70k miles before in need to do mine. I going to print this and put it my Tacoma binder I made up. Not to bitch this is a great write up but some torque specs would have been good. I will open up the install manual and see what I can find tomorrow. Thanks again!!!
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  9. Jun 2, 2014 at 5:51 AM
    #9
    SManZ

    SManZ [OP] el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

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    I had considered adding torque specs, however I read of more than one presonance snapping the heads off of the manifold bolts with a torque wrench before reaching spec. I did it by feel instead :)
     
    phenix likes this.
  10. Jun 3, 2014 at 3:46 PM
    #10
    AWF ROWD

    AWF ROWD ...eats at the " Y " often....

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    Sic write-up Bro.....gonna' help a lot of the Boost Boys..!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
     
  11. Jun 3, 2014 at 3:54 PM
    #11
    DeeKay21

    DeeKay21 Lieutenant Dan.

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    Looks like a really good write-up!! Only if I had a S/C to try it on!! :p
     
  12. Jun 3, 2014 at 4:14 PM
    #12
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    Very well done. Nice!
     
  13. Jun 12, 2014 at 4:45 PM
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    miketx

    miketx New Member

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    I joined this forum specifically to commend you on an excellent writeup! This writeup was cross-posted to the FJ forum. I have an 08 TT FJ with a supercharger. Thanks for taking the time to writeup the procedure and take pictures!

    Cheers, Mike
     
  14. Jun 12, 2014 at 9:30 PM
    #14
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Best instructions I've seen. :thumbsup:

    Mods should "sticky" this, if there isn't one this thorough.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014
  15. Jun 13, 2014 at 4:54 AM
    #15
    SManZ

    SManZ [OP] el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

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    Thanks for all the compliments guys! Glad to see this will help some people out :)
     
    phenix likes this.
  16. Jun 13, 2014 at 5:09 AM
    #16
    ckeene9

    ckeene9 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome stuff!
     
  17. Jun 13, 2014 at 5:51 PM
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    chyknees

    chyknees 13th wunder

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    Awesome write-up! Thanks!
     
  18. Aug 13, 2014 at 9:46 PM
    #18
    nine3

    nine3 Well-Known Member

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    Great write up! I'll be using this when my truck hits 60k
     
  19. Oct 5, 2014 at 8:17 PM
    #19
    novanut21

    novanut21 Well-Known Member

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    How is this not a sticky yet? Mods can we PLEASE make this a sticky?!?!
     
  20. Oct 5, 2014 at 9:51 PM
    #20
    BenMara

    BenMara That Asian RedNeck

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    Great Info!
     
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