TRD supercharger

Any idea why the UCON says it is only for 2005-08 and not later. I have an '11 and I know they added the emissions pump in '12 but I didn't think there was much difference until '12.

 

Here is a good question for those who have had this thing a while and have a better knowledge of it than I do.

Can you gain power by performing from boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (even if you have upgraded the fuel pump)??

From some of the reading I have done I have seen that what normally happens when you hit WOT if you have not done a fuel pressure regulator mod or boost referenced the fuel pressure regulator, you will not be at a 1:1 ratio of boost and fuel pressure. The blower will be doing it's thing kicking out 5.5- whatever psi and the fuel pressure will remain at whatever ours is stock (I think 43 psi?). So by doing the FPR mod, you now have the correct fuel volume and pressure being delivered as the blower kicks to max RPM while you gain real estate.

I revisited the mod today just to see if I was going to feel any difference and maybe it was the upgraded valve body that was giving me the extra SOTP factor, but I swear I picked up better power from it. Either way, I never spin the tires from this thing at take off and today I felt like it gained more pep, allowing me to accidentally light them up. Running 2.85 pulley and AEM 320 pump btw. AFR has always been correct, except at WOT, however, where it goes pig rich.

 

Not sure, not been on a dyno. Truck actually felt more sluggish tho.

 

Really? That's weird. It feels more lively to me now than before.

 

I honestly don't think you'd gain anything. The FPR mod was to help increase fuel pressure during boost due to the OEM pump not putting out enough. With an upgraded pump you're not really gonna see any difference, just creating a loop of fuel that's not really doing anything. But hey, its your truck. Again, Butt Dyno to the rescue.

 

It all depends on what your fueling, timing, and amount of air before. It depends on the quality of the tune.

 

@12TRDTacoma like we discussed, TUNING.

 

Could just be the trans giving me the extra kick I feel. it's otherwise the TRD tune.

 

Did you do the trans valve body upgrade at the same time as the fuel pump?

 

Semi-Off-Topic question: How does a TRD or Magnuson S/C do in terms of reliability? I like Toyotas because of their reputation as dependable that have high longevity and don't break down, but will a S/C put excess wear on the motor and compromise it's reliability?

 

@12TRDTacoma

Being that you have an auto which is a '12, (which then corresponds with the years of automatics which were underfilled from the factory) have larger and heavier tires, and added weight from suspension components, which is then stressed even more from the added low rpm torque of the roots charger, your transmission was definitely screaming for relief.

The valve body upgrade would not only reduce slippage, but appy more force for strength and crisp shifts. Subsequently it should then be filled to the adequate and accurate level.

Totally changing the intial off of the line acceleration.

Fuel pump mod: Your AFR gauge could read that you have the proper AFR's, and likely will do so. However, your pump (were it able to be datalogged) would show that pressure wasn't able to be maintained. That would cause fluctations in fuel delivery resulting in lost power, despite showing a proper afr. Think of it as being at max duty cycle and barely able to keep up. Due to the load upon it.

Increasing the pump size then corrects the unstable fuel pressure (drop) returning power.

However. The tune might be to lean, might have too much timing, or the fuel might be just a low quality. Ambient air temps, and or charge ait temps could be too high. The coolant pump might now be flowing properly causing a lack of charge air cooling. Could be any of those things, so that then adding the FPR mod, you are getting more fuel and cooling or compensating for any of the above.

To rule it out as not able to increase power, would then be a novice move, by not conaidering all of of those factors.

Since you live in Cali, you already have some of the worst fuel in the US. Heavier than stock. More torque and heat than stock. Likely stock cooling system. Hopefully not a blocked grill, restricting radiator air flow .Possibly TRD tune related. Possibly a dirty fuel filter as well.

 

Damn that was a winded post. Skip to the end, for the skimmers.

 

@12TRDTacoma ,

What are your WOT AFR's, pre FPR mod?

 

Sometimes as low as 9.8, but I normally see them dip to 10.5 ish then slowly normalize back to 11.3 after a few moments.

 

What kind of intake and exhaust do you have, again?

 

I just did the trans valve body a few days ago. The fuel pump was done at 50K miles. Blower at 55K I currently sit at 77K.

Cooling system is stock yes. The radiator area and grill and whatnot only has the air filter in it's way. I agree though. California has some of the worst fuel ever. Full of debris and bs. I run the URD "ram air" setup btw.

 

Intake is the URD "ram" air one. Exhaust is stock until after the Y. Then it is bent for what I need it for and finally the Aero Turbine 2525XL muffler.

 

Swap out the fuel filter after 30K, take some pics of the crap that came out of the filters "outlet" side if u can. Use a glass container, i bet its brown.

 

Toyota switched to a different connector from the wiring harness to the ECU. That connector is licensed by the company that makes it.

At least thats what I recall from earlier in this thread.

 

The stock one at the time was. It wasn't overly brown though. Not horrible for 50K. I had seen worse before.