TRD supercharger

The TRD/Magnuson blower rates pretty high if not excellent in reliability AFAIK. A few things come to the top of my mind
1. Bypass actuator - boost only kicks in when really going hard preserving the engine by lowering stress and keeping stock MPG around town (not that I care that much but gas is climbing in $$ again...)
2. Blower is MP90 (05+ ones) which i believe means the actual compression fins are the same as many other blowers including the OEM 90's GM 3800 series motors which means it's a proven design.
3. Tacoma engine internals on 1GR-FE motors are reliable to begin with and can handle quite a bit more stress than the stock TD blower as proven by many forum members especially in the X-runners which there are some crazy turbo builds around.

Hope that helps reassure you. I'm sure others have more specific input but i think these are the biggest points I have read on the topic of reliability.

 

Only still available for the URD s/c kits. The production runs for the '09+ is still under way. They should be released in another few months. To be sold without URD s/c kits.

You don't need the FPR mod. You'll only be even more rich than now, and lose power. It is because your transmission isn't slipping like it used to.

This!^^^

 

Good stuff. I'll reverse it when I get home. No sense in wasting more gas than these things already do.

 

Did we decide IPT is the best valve body mod?

 

I think so yes, only because of bad reviews from Level 10 IIRC

 

I want a modded valve body so damn bad.

 

I need to do it. And headers.

 

So, your saying it wasnt just my imagination?

Nice to hear that from an authority

 

If from rich to puddle, then yup. Bog. Lol

 

makes perfect sense, growing up its always been that way.......But without numbers to back it up, well you know how that goes.
I felt my truck stumble, but yeh........"butt dyno"

 

Shoot. As I have been fiddling with my tune on my Haltech Elite, certain areas have been too rich or too lean. Those rich areas, in the high 9's and low 10's, would cause a noticeable loss in power. Scale them to the 12's and holy sheet, it is all back.

Now there is another trick, but most people here won't want to spend the money. Even though it isn't too much.

It is what I had to do with my current engine, to be able to have a good AFR's while in Open Loop WOT w/OEM ECU. Just installing the engine and going, with OEM N/A injectors, and factory 43.5 psi fuel pressure, the WOT AFR's were somewhere more rich than 10's. What did I do, since I couldn't do any ecu tuning, to lean it out???

Dropped the fuel pressure, with my aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Dropped it down to about 36-37 psi. Boom. Running mid 11's in WOT. Good enough for WOT, and not a low enough fuel pressure to trip the CEL for bad fuel trims.

Couldn't electrically tune, so I mechanically tuned.

 

Dropping the fuel pressure will help you get better AFR's on these?

 

Yes, in the Open Loop cells.

 

IPT, yes. Unless you have the knowledge and ability to do it yourself.

Do it!

It is SO worth it! It's a night and day difference how much the valve body is holding back when in stock form, all because people want granny shifting. I would compare it the equal to shifting gears in a manual and then slowly letting the clutch out instead of just letting off. Causes excess friction build up because of extended engagement/ disengagement.

 

So I'm thinking the new intercooler reservoir cap has cured my leak. New cap has a very satisfying click when you tighten it. The stock one never had that.

 

I don't think mine clicks, I just tighten it as hard as necessary and its fine. I see residue around the cap alot and every so often there will be a dried drip down the side, but my coolant level is still fine.

 

How is the elite 2500?

 

Absolutely enamored. I wish it were available back when I purchased the ProEFI. It is so intuitive, and user friendly.

Truck idles and runs smoother, with cams mind you, than it did on the stock ecu.

 

I see the usual suspects are still around lol.

I have a question for you guys. I recently rolled my intake back to stock to simplify my Safari snorkel installation and I ran into some odd hiccups. First off, my stock intake doesn't fit quite right... the lower mounting screw is about an inch away from where it should be should I couldn't bolt it up. In the end I just secured the box with the top screw and it seems not to be going anywhere but I found this very odd. I even mounted the box twice and double checked that it was all the way on the throttle assembly but it always ends up with the bottom screw missing the hole by an inch. I've never had the stock intake box on with the SC, I'm wondering if my SC mount for the intake box just isn't where it should be for some reason?

The second odd thing is that I noticed that the stock intake tube has water drain holes in the bottom of it near the fender. Should I silicon these off for the snorkel. I mean the tube is up higher then the water I'll be going into but, still, couldn't this be a source of a hydrolock should I slip into deeper water? Does the risk of sucking in too much water in some freak heavy snow storm outweigh the risk of slipping into a deep puddle?

 

Not sure about the drain holes, but the stock intake should fit with the blower. The fit kit comes with a trd air filter that fits the stock housing.

Ive swapped kine back and forth without issue.