Tree Sap Nightmare..Seeking Help

Noooooo!

 

rubbing compound???? doubt there would be much paint left when you're done

 

Wonder if a rubber decal removal tool might be useful here? They're made to remove sticky stuff from cars without damaging the paint.

 

That’s hard to even look at, I would say fill a container with rubbing alcohol and mineral spirt and have a clean microfiber soaked in it. Almost like you’re washing the area with it, just let it sit in the area for about 30 seconds and wipe.
Also try a steamer to help loosen the sap.
Last resort is some kind of acid wash from a detailer.

 

If you have this tool or access to it, I would try a Dual Action Polishing machine with a hard/firm and coarse pad to do the elbrow grease work. These machines have built in clutches so you if you stay in one spot too long or apply too much pressure the pad stops turning which will prevent excessive heat build up. I would try the sap remover products mentioned applied to the pad(s) (you will need more than a couple) and see if it helps breakdown the sap. Keep in mind these pads are designed to remove defects and heavy contaminates from paint, so another type of pad will be required to help remove the marring/scratching the pad could cause.

This is just a suggestion to help with the labor its going to take to remove. The heat gun method mentioned is also a good idea but obviously you want to be very very careful not to get one area too hot. That along with some plastic blades should help you to start taking off sections in big chunks.

Good luck!

 

Avoid doing the above until all tree sap is removed, otherwise you’ll be scratching the surface even more since all that sap with dirt will now be on the pad. This should be used at the end to remove all the micro scratches the rubbing has caused.
You also want to be wiping in one direction to prevent swirl marks that look like spider webs in the sunlight.

 

Hand sanitizer works great cleaning pine sap off of my boat cover and I've used it to get sap off my windshield. I had tried the 70% IA and did not work as well. A nice thing about the sanitizer is it's viscous so you can goop it on and let it sit for a minute or so. It might be prudent to try an inconspicuous spot in case the sanitizer affects your paint, but it has never discolored the black fabric boat cover.

 

The hand sanitizer may have less percentage of Isopropyl in it, but since it's a gel, it can stay on longer and remove it rather than quickly evaporate.

You may want to unplug and remove the door and set it on some sawhorses to let the hand sanitizer sit on a parallel to the ground surface rather than just run off with gravity.

 

In my 30+ years as a self employed auto/aviation/marine detailer my go to for sap removal is Xylene. Its completely clearcoat safe and can be sprayed or wiped on and eats sap, tar and other contaminants with ease. It can be found at Home Depot, Lowes or any paint store.
Another key factor in removing sap is getting to it before it hardens. It can still be removed but takes a lot more product and a lot more time.

For your situation I would spray a partial area of the sap, let sit for approximately 30 seconds and remove with paper towels or rags you don't mind destroying with sap. Repeat until effected area is sap free and then apply your wax or sealant of choice.

 

Clay bar with lacquer thinner as lube?

 

Disclaimer: He's being sarcastic. Do not try this at home - or anywhere else!

 

OP first step is ignore 99% of the recommendations in the post and take it to a pro. After seeing some of the recommendations, I hope some of you don’t procreate.

 

Why?

I read on Autogeek some members had good luck with rubbing compound.

 

If it hasnt been said before, yellow bottle rain x. It is what every dealership I've worked at uses for quick sap removal.

 

I didn't say say "Rocks in a bottle compound" There's a lot mild compounds on the market. It doesn't have to be a correction compound. Could be a light, mild polishing compound.

 

Yikes!! And it’s white too. With all the issues with white paint flaking after a few years, this may accelerate yours.

 

"Rubbing Compound" is very different from "Polishing Compound." Rubbing Compound was originally developed to polish out lacquer paint which needed lots of work to truly shine. And you started with that, then worked your way down the aggressiveness scale.

In all my years in detailing, I've used Rubbing Compound once - about 30 years ago - with disastrous results. Wisdom comes from experience. Experience comes from screwing up. Never use Rubbing Compound.

 

blah blah blah ancient chinese secret is gas and a lighter

 

Terms are used loosely today.

I read any Polishing Compounds are considered as a correction compound due to being abrasive. Most of my learning is from reading online. The dealership I detail at didn't teach me nothing. Just tell me to use this or that.

When I was young I used Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover on sap. It did a great job at removing all contaminants. It remove staining from white paint, minor imperfection. It was also abrasive. I can feel the abrasive rubbing it on the paint. Still they called a Bug and Tar remover.

 

Heat it up with a heat gun, use a solvent on a micro rag and do small sections at a time. It's the best way to take it off. I'm a professional detailer for almost 40 years. You have to soften up the sap first.