TRIED TO GET BEARING MODULE OFF...HELP!

This wheel bearing puller.

 

Hmmm youve stumped me. Maybe rust on the splined axle shaft.

 

Ouch! Anything that comes in it's own case is pricey.. what about just a 4 inch 3 jaw puller from an auto parts store. I don't think I will mushroom the end of the axle, do you?

 

gonna tear it apart again in the am. Gonna go buy a puller anyway. good to have it. I will try "tapping", then advance as needed.
thanks
dewey

 

Good luck.

 

I ran into the SAME problem while trying to replace my axle seal on the front diff last week.

Took me 3 hours of prying and hammering to get one hub off the spindle...but after calling my mechanic friend for advice, I was able to do it. He advised me to loosen the 4 bolts all the way, thread the axle nut onto the axle itself until the nut is flush with the face of the axle (to prevent the bearing/hub from flying off when it breaks loose) take a big hammer, and keep hitting the end of the axle nut....HARD. Like he said you need like 3 feet of space to whap that thing good.

I was able to pop it out about 1/4 inch, like you said, but it was stuck from there. After 2-3 blows to the axle nut, it popped off the spindle. No damage to the axle nut whatsoever. Hope that helps!

 

Some pics at where I was stuck.

 

Wow. On a 2010 you had that much trouble??
Rust?

 

When I replaced my wheel bearing, I had to do this same process and mine came off the spindle no problem..just had to rotate, loosen, rotate, loosen etc till it came apart..the shit part was getting the old bearing off and pressing the new one on. I had to pay 4WP 50 bucks to do it

 

Sounds about right.
I used a die grinder to cut the inside sleeve off of the hub. Had to use emery cloth to smooth the hub the greased the hub and hammered the hell out of the new bearing with a 3 lb sledge and a 2x4. I thought I was going to destroy the bearing.

 

Yup. It was rusted pretty good.

 

Ok, so after 5 hrs sleep, at it again! Thanks for the advice! The picture of all the screwdrivers was me last night... Let's try this again..

 

Best of luck! Don't be shy with the WD-40/Liquid Wrench. Helps loosen it up a bit when you're hammering.

 

Exactly like both of you had said! Rusted splines. And after wedging my 2 chisles, put the axle nut on, and 4 whacks later, THE ASSEMBLY IS OFF!!
reps to both! You sirs, know your trucks..
Thanks
Dewey

 

That said seal happens to be garbage. I took my passenger side apart because the alignment shop said I a loose bearing (just the tie rod). I found months worth of mud and sludge. I will be cleaning these religiously from here on out. That will also help from seizing from rust.



Good luck with the rest of the days work.

 

There was just a slight film of rust on the splines. I only 4wd on the beach here. Salt spray covers everything. I hose the truck down after each fishing trip, but it just gets the beach sand out. I think the inner seal is a bad design. After knocking it out, that entire lip under the seal was more rusted than what was on the shaft. Also, anyone else that is doing this, remember, there is play in that half shaft, so you can bang on the end of it.. (with the nut on).

 

I am, just not today.. Next weekend the other side. Should go smoother, now I know what to expect..

 

Good to hear.

 

buy a pair of real pry bars for next weekend.

 

I had to do this job on my Dodge Ram 1500 2wd...Once the bearing was unbolted it should have fallen out, but since it was built with a aluminum knuckle and a steel bearing it required splitting the ball joints and pressing the old bearings out, they popped at the 7,000 pounds of force point (I have a 20 ton press with a gauge).

The bearing failed at 40k and bearing was severely rusted into the knuckle. I never had this level of problems with the old tapered timkin wheel bearing, and they could be easily removed, cleaned, greased and reinstalled.

Howard