Trim or new alignment to fix tire rub?

Hey, yall

got some new wheels / tires today. I’m on a 2.5” lift, and while I thought there would be no rub, I am sadly.

Went with the Method 316’s (zero offset) + the Falken Peak AT4w’s

Ive never trimmed nor do I have any experience with the cab/body mount chop. I was told that the folks that do alignments can somehow move things forward a touch? I’m curious if it’s worth doing that or, from my photo here, it’s not too hard to just trim back this plastic?

It seems to rub when approaching full lockout but doesn’t rub at full lockout.. if that matters.

Any thoughts are appreciated. For what it’s worth, I was running stock TRD wheels with Nitto Ridge Grapplers, at 265/75/16 with no issues at all previously.

 

Well look at the rear alignment bolt on the lower control arm. If its all the way out away from center of vehicle-think 9 oclock if looking from the rear-then there is mot not much left to do there. Chances are it is not amd you have room to move it. I have an offroad shop do my alignments as many regular alignment shops just put it to factory spec and go crosseyed if you try to explain that you need max caster.

 

Ask for max caster while keeping camber in the green at your alignment appointment. They should be able to give you 2.5*++ caster. This moves the wheel forward. You might rub plastic at the front of the wheel well when turning and backing up but it’s easy to zap it up out of the way.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAYGdcKSA3o&t=3s

 

So, and I continue to feel like an idiot, I think I am also indeed rubbing at complete lockout on the body mount. Though I didn’t hear anything, I had the Mrs do full lockout and got up under. While it seems to look clear, from under it appears to touch.

Super bummed.. and unsure if an alignment can get them forward, or if maybe I’ll have to size down.

 

I can do that even with non-adjustable UCA, right?

 

You won't get 2.5* Will be lucky to get over 1*

 

Space wise, what does 1* equate to? Even an inch?

 

Probably not. It looks like you don't need an inch though. I would think if you could get that LCA all the way forward, you would clear.

I wonder if those new AT4W have a deeper tread than the AT3W

 

I believe they do. They appear a bit more aggressive. So, even with that body mount that appears to touch, you think if I can get even a bit more with the LCA I should be alright?

As far as going over bumps, driving on fire roads, will the bouncing cause it to rub if I do get that tad bit of clearance?

 

Could get a cab mount chop done

 

I looked them up. Almost identical in specs. The AT4W is actually .2" smaller in diameter and 2lbs heavier.

I think you could get them to fit but it would be close with the UCAs you have. Once you max the LCAs out, you'll probably be out of camber spec

 

Gotcha.

I guess I just can’t wrap my mind around how others run a zero offset, same trie size, and in some cases stock CA’s and have no issue. struggle is real

 

You will need a high caster UCA to get you that caster. Also, offset will play a role on whichever wheels you end up choosing.

 

If you clear with caster, odds are you clear with max shock compression at max lockout, but you need to check that.

 

You are barely rubbing. Keep at it.

 

So, if I trim the plastic, it’ll clear that no problem. However, if it slightly rubs the body mount, is that okay? Mind you, that would be at full lockout.

 

C
M
C

bet you turn full lock more than you think

 

I hear you on that. I guess I’m just nervous to do something like that to the truck is all. Plus, it’ll easily run me another 4-500 in this area.

 

Down size the tires then, 4-500 is cheaper than tires