Trouble removing driver side spark plugs

I was trying to do a compression test with the engine at operating temp and the passenger plugs came out fine but the driver side plugs all had resistance. In fear of crossing the threads I just tightened them back up and left them alone.
I just installed new dual prong denso plugs too. I didn't use antiseize but should I have?
I've seen some people here say to use dielectric grease...... hmmm

I've been wanting to get them out with the engine cold after a nights cool off but I still get worried.
I really want to do a compression test. Runs good btw

 

How long do new plugs usually last?

 

How can you cross the threads when loosening? I thought crossing the threads happens when you start threading them in wrong at an angle then use a wrench. You should be able to screw them in almost all the way just using a socket and extension without the ratchet.

For some plugs Denso will say do not use any anti-seize. Some plugs have plating on the threads which prevents them from seizing. Also, anti-seize will lubricate the threads and you can risk over tightening them.

 

With stock NGK or Denso plugs you shouldn't need to use anti-seize. Dielectric grease is not used on the threads, it's used for the plug wire boots.

If you were able to install them fine initially then they shouldn't be cross threaded. Unless the threads were already damaged prior to installing the spark plugs but you would have felt it when installing them. How far are you able to unscrew them? I know you probably can't see how much but roughly how much are you able to loosen them, like a few turns, more or less?

 

The old ones came out fine and the new ones screwed in perfectly fine. I messed up the threads on for 02 sensor removing it with a wrenches I've been paranoid since. Wrong tool I know.....
I just dont understand why one side ( all 3) came out with no resistance but one side did

I loosened 1 plug about 1/2 a turn before I gave up

 

Right now the truck is sitting I'm my garage to cool overnight. That should be enough time to cool and I'll give it a try again.

 

Wow, 1/2 turn is like nothing. Only thing I can think of is that the threads stripped by overtightening or were compromised previously & finally gave out. But not likely for all 3 on one side, you'd have to crank down really hard to do that & I'm sure you would no better than that.

Hope you get em out, definitely let us know what happens.

 

Yup, never should try to take out plugs while the engine is hot. Should be close to ambient temp. Doing so is what causes threads to seize & very easily on aluminum heads. I hope that's not what he did. If that is what happened, sorry to say, but allowing it to fully cool is not going to solve the issue, damage is already done.

 

Damn I didn't know that. I did mine on a fairly warm motor. One of mine didn't wanna come out but I got it. Seemed fine though. Good to know

 

Fairly warm is a no no, slightly warm is not too bad but always play it safe & let it cool down especially on aluminum heads. Different types of metals expand & contract at different rates. Aluminum cools down faster than steel. The plugs are steel but with much less mass but still.

 

I had the same problem. Truck started running bad, hurried to friends house to pull the plugs and put new ones in and get home. The first two drivers side seized after 3 turns, i took it to a mechanic and the plugs broke off in the head.

So i put in a new motor rather than rebuild the top end of a 370k mile one.

 

Didn't know that either. Definitely glad I happened across this thread since plug and wire change are on the top of the to-do list.

 

I'm not disagreeing with anyone but aren't you supposed to remove the plugs on a normal operating temp engine to do a compression test?
I love the activity on here! Lots of forums are dead on older topics like this

 

Yes but not necessarily. I've always done compression tests with the engine cold, at it's worse case scenerio so to speak. Yes sealing will be better at operating temps but if you test cold & have good readings you know you are good. But in the case of aluminum heads, I wouldn't risk seizing the spark plugs. Plus with the engine hot, theoretically as the engine cools (probably not a big difference depending on how quick you are & if it's all iron) while doing the test you will get less accurate readings, depending on what you are testing to see.

 

I was tired from work but the 3 driver side plugs just came out without any problems so I'm pumped enough to pull the other ones and do the compression test with a cold engine. Its 91 degrees in my garage

Winner winner chicken dinner
Two of them are 185 and the rest are 190

Thanks for your help guys!

 

I have taken off a head from a 22-r then gave it a valve job and had it machined for the HG then did a timing chain job and got it running again.
I have taken out the engine from my other toy, removed the head and did the same but I also replaced everything that goes with a timing belt job and a clutch job on my awd celica all-trac with a 3sgte.
Stripping a spark plug thread in this V6 scares some poop out of me.....

 

With a compression test all you're looking for is a difference from cylinder to cylinder. Cold is fine, as all things are equal with each cylinder. I always use antiseize with dissimilar metals, with plugs especially given their operating environment. It doesn't need a lot. Risk of over torquing is mitigated using a torque wrench.