trouble removing strut rod

See video.

I tried to replace the strut rod bushings with new bushings I bought. I hoped to just pull the rod down out of the frame connection to access the bushing, but that isn't happening without detaching the rod from the lower control arm first. I removed the nuts on the bottom of the control arm, and the bracket and studs need to be lifted a few inches up to free the strut rod. But they won't lift up past the next coil of the coil spring. I think I have to remove more suspension components, maybe even the spring, and I'm not comfortable doing that. Is that what it looks like to you?

I suggested in the video that I could remove the brake line, but no, it's going to take more than that.

I actually got new bushings, but they are inside a steel fitting. I don't expect to be able to pound out the old ones. I think I'll have to buy whole new strut rods, in which case they do need to be removed entirely.

What do you think?

It looks like I have to make an appointment with a shop to do this. If that happens I likely will have them replace the coil springs too.

Background: I'm chasing a light vibration on rough roads and already replaced several things. Control arm bushings are original but look ok. People on here confirmed from a video that my strut rod bushings are bad (second video). Driver side spring is reportedly sagging. Shocks, sway bar bushings, and all ball joints are good. I don't know about the control arm bushings, but one shop already looked at them and decided to just lube them and didn't disassemble.
311,000 miles.

 

I've removed that 5 or 6 times.....

once to do those bushings on each side.

Wrangling that rod out is like wrestling a monkey...


Some times you can bottle jack and move that lca up or down a little and use a pry bar and get it.

Its best to have one of those spring compressors for extra if needed..

 

Worst thing is when those two bolts just spin and wont let you get the nuts all the way off...

So torch preheat and pb blast ahead of time....


Tacoma survival kit.....

 

If you do use the compressors....be mindful of how the bottom spring seats....

all you need to do is lift it a little..

like I said .....like wrestling a monkey.

 

Was it hard to get that bushing out of the strut rod?

 

I used this....cheap as $50....

 

21Pcs Auto Repair Service Removal Ball Joint Press Tool Kit & Master Adapter Set | eBay

 

OR you can buy the whole arm...

FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM STRUT ROD FOR 1995-2000 TOYOTA TACOMA 2WD RWD PAIR | eBay

 

If this bushing is shot on these torsion arms......then the rest of your bushings are getting tortured from all that play....

 

Like I said the survival kit .....is not for play....

its so I dont get took again and again from idiot mechanics....

DOnt let idiot mechanics touch old crispy cars....recipe for disaster....


this gen really favors the DIY.....if your not that type ......you might want to recalculate....

There tons of vids out there of how to do anything from any angle for taco and 4-runner........occult like....

 

Maybe I'll give it one more shot tomorrow to see if there's any way for me to pry the bracket off the LCA, and go from there.

 

Getting back to this. Still the same issue as the video in the OP. A neighbor suggested clamping the bracket and rod down to the LCA so that things stay put, then thread the nut (bottom of the pic) partially onto the bolt to protect the bolt end, pound the nut upwards with a sledge, and hope the roundhead bolt dislodges from the bracket. Then the same for the other bolt next to it. The bolts appears to be pressed hard into the bracket.

Sound like a reasonable plan?

Otherwise maybe use some sort of press directly on the nut to push it up, if possible?

Assuming the roundhead bolts are not welded onto the bracket (it doesn't look like it), they should pop out with some force, right?

If all goes well and I get the rod replaced, I plan on taking an impact to tighten the nut, and hopefully the bolt will get pulled down and pressed into the bracket again and be immobile so that the impact can tighten the nut? It seems so weird. Why would they not have a regular hex bolt there?