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TRS resealing glue

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Frostbyte, Feb 3, 2012.

  1. Feb 3, 2012 at 11:42 PM
    #1
    Frostbyte

    Frostbyte [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Northern Utah
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    03 Black SR5 4x4 TRD Off Road
    RIP - 07 Radiant Red SR5 4x4 TRD Sport Fabtech 6" lift, 33x12.50.18 Toyo M/T on All black XD Hoss wheels
    Anyone ever use the TRS resealing glue? I bought it with my retro kit, about to do my bhlm, and was thinking about using it. What are your thoughts? Concerns? Comments?
     
  2. Feb 4, 2012 at 9:35 AM
    #2
    Frostbyte

    Frostbyte [OP] Well-Known Member

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    03 Black SR5 4x4 TRD Off Road
    RIP - 07 Radiant Red SR5 4x4 TRD Sport Fabtech 6" lift, 33x12.50.18 Toyo M/T on All black XD Hoss wheels
    thinking as in using the trs stuff. im going to use something, just debating the trs glue is all.
     
  3. Feb 7, 2012 at 8:38 PM
    #3
    Iceman1183

    Iceman1183 Well-Known Member

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    Cleveland Heights, OH
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    2011 Black DCSB V6 4x4
    BHLM, FX-R projectors with 5000k HID bulbs, 5000k Fogs Weathertechs, Viper 5901 with Smartstart, Homertaco TRD Satoshi
    I used the TRS resealing glue, it worked quite well. I scraped the majority of the old adhesive out of the edges of the lights then just layed down a strip of the black TRS resealing glue. Worked great, sealed well. I still siliconed the shit out of it after it cured overnight though. Haven't had a leak problem since!
     
  4. Feb 9, 2012 at 11:32 PM
    #4
    morphius

    morphius Well-Known Member

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    The TRS sealant works well and I've not had any leaks on to retrofits. The only thing I didn't like is that it is black vs gray and a bit stringy/gooey when heated. But it seals well.

    Just make sure to remove as much of all the original butyl 1st. I used a heat gun to warm up a couple of inches at a time and used a Harbor Freight nylon pry bar to scrape out the old butyl.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-95214.html

    Then you can take the roll of the TRS sealant and lay it into the channel where the old butyl was removed. Stretching the sealant a bit will allow you to stuff the material in. Just be consistent for an even bead. In the corners I didn't stretch it at all. You can cut a bit extra and fill in any voids.

    After I heated and pressed everything back in place, use spring clamps to squeeze the halves together. Once cooled, I used a bit of acetone to remove any finger print marks from the sealant for a clean professional appearance.
     
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