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TRS resealing glue

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Frostbyte, Feb 3, 2012.

  1. Feb 3, 2012 at 11:42 PM
    #1
    Frostbyte

    Frostbyte [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Northern Utah
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    SOLD - 03 Black SR5 4x4 TRD OR RIP - 07 Radiant Red SR5 4x4 TRD Sport Fabtech 6" lift, 33x12.50.18 Toyo M/T on All black XD Hoss wheels
    Anyone ever use the TRS resealing glue? I bought it with my retro kit, about to do my bhlm, and was thinking about using it. What are your thoughts? Concerns? Comments?
     
  2. Feb 4, 2012 at 9:35 AM
    #2
    Frostbyte

    Frostbyte [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    18 Super White TRD OR Manual
    SOLD - 03 Black SR5 4x4 TRD OR RIP - 07 Radiant Red SR5 4x4 TRD Sport Fabtech 6" lift, 33x12.50.18 Toyo M/T on All black XD Hoss wheels
    thinking as in using the trs stuff. im going to use something, just debating the trs glue is all.
     
  3. Feb 7, 2012 at 8:38 PM
    #3
    Iceman1183

    Iceman1183 Well-Known Member

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    Cleveland Heights, OH
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    2011 Black DCSB V6 4x4
    BHLM, FX-R projectors with 5000k HID bulbs, 5000k Fogs Weathertechs, Viper 5901 with Smartstart, Homertaco TRD Satoshi
    I used the TRS resealing glue, it worked quite well. I scraped the majority of the old adhesive out of the edges of the lights then just layed down a strip of the black TRS resealing glue. Worked great, sealed well. I still siliconed the shit out of it after it cured overnight though. Haven't had a leak problem since!
     
  4. Feb 9, 2012 at 11:32 PM
    #4
    morphius

    morphius Well-Known Member

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    The TRS sealant works well and I've not had any leaks on to retrofits. The only thing I didn't like is that it is black vs gray and a bit stringy/gooey when heated. But it seals well.

    Just make sure to remove as much of all the original butyl 1st. I used a heat gun to warm up a couple of inches at a time and used a Harbor Freight nylon pry bar to scrape out the old butyl. Then you can take the roll of the TRS sealant and lay it into the channel where the old butyl was removed. Stretching the sealant a bit will allow you to stuff the material in. Just be consistent for an even bead. In the corners I didn't stretch it at all. You can cut a bit extra and fill in any voids.

    After I heated and pressed everything back in place, use spring clamps to squeeze the halves together. Once cooled, I used a bit of acetone to remove any finger print marks from the sealant for a clean professional appearance.
     

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