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Truck dies when warm starting

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Dogs, Oct 3, 2017.

  1. Oct 3, 2017 at 8:29 PM
    #1
    Dogs

    Dogs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My truck does this weird thing where it dies the second time I start it. I'll explain better with a scenario. So I leave my house to go and get gas. Truck gets warm and does fine to get there and the cold start is fine. Then, after I finish getting gas and go to start the truck, it'll idle super low. Like 200rpm low. Then if I don't give it a hard rev in park it'll die. Sometimes it'll even die after I rev it up a bit. I have no idea what it could be and it has been happening for a while. And it only does this while its warm. Does anyone have an idea on what could be causing it?
     
  2. Oct 4, 2017 at 2:08 AM
    #2
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Only after you fill up with gas?
     
  3. Oct 4, 2017 at 2:21 AM
    #3
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    I had a similar issue ended up being a bad injector on cyl6 it progressively got worse until it would cause misfires when started warm.
     
  4. Oct 4, 2017 at 5:46 AM
    #4
    tacoma665

    tacoma665 Well-Known Member

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    I had a similar problem with mine. I cleaned up the IAC (idle air control valve) and it's been fine ever since.
     
  5. Oct 4, 2017 at 5:37 PM
    #5
    Dogs

    Dogs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No not just when I fill up with gas. Just anytime I turn off the truck and start it again within like five or ten minutes of it being shut off. Key-Rei, how would I diagnose it being a bad injector? And tacoma665, how do I go about cleaning that?
     
  6. Oct 5, 2017 at 6:23 AM
    #6
    tacoma665

    tacoma665 Well-Known Member

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    Just search on google for "how to clean an IAC valve for Toyota Tacoma"
     
  7. Oct 5, 2017 at 8:53 AM
    #7
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    I would definitely give cleaning your IAC and TB a go before changing a injector. As for injector diagnosis, the only difinitive method is to pull the injectors and measure their resistance with a meter set to Ohms. I don't recall the OE spec but I believe it is about 12Ω injectors 1-5 were about 13-14Ω and injector 6 was 38Ω needless to say Cyl 6 was my problem cyl. Along with the symptoms you described I also had a misfire on cyl 6 when starting warm before I finally pulled and tested my injectors.

    Start with the cheap easy fixes before shelling out for an injector though.
     
  8. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:03 PM
    #8
    Dogs

    Dogs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright, I'm going to start with the IAC valve, then I'll go from there. Thanks for the help everyone
     
  9. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:07 PM
    #9
    preybird1

    preybird1 02 taco on 37's

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    Thats a bad purge valve. Its stays open and all the fuel tank vapor fills the motor causing a rich flooded like condition. To verify disconnect the the purge line to the motor and then fill up and all will be normal once again.
     
  10. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:10 PM
    #10
    Dogs

    Dogs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay, Ill do that as well! Thanks!
     
  11. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:13 PM
    #11
    Dogs

    Dogs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Actually, I looked up how to do that and I didn't really find anything good on it. How do I go about disconnecting it, and where is it?
     

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