Truck is throwing that damn P0101 code!! (SOLVED)

I went to take my truck fishing Thursday on the way there I noticed it wasn't running right. I was watching my AFR gauge and when it would stumble the AFR would go way lean into the 16-18 range. I got it back home pulled codes and had the following P0101,P0102,P0113,P0171 & P0174. I pulled the MAF sensor and cleaned it with MAF cleaner reinstalled and cleared codes. I took it out the next day and same thing could feel the truck stumble/hesitate and the AFR was still going lean. So I put the scan tool back on and now only have the P0101 (pending) code. I swapped out the MAF sensor and still same thing. I have checked for vacuum leaks but I don't see/hear any and my boost/vacuum gauge is reading 20in/hg. I have a AFE Stg.2 Si (sealed intake) which I have had since 2011 and before that I had the crappy K&N CAI with no issues. I did a little research on here and only fix I found was to switch back to OEM air intake and it stopped throwing the P0101 code and another switched from TRD 2nd gen CAI to a 1st gen and it fixed it. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

Have you sprayed anything around the engine bay? How many miles does your truck have?

 

Silicone hoses I would check are the PCV hoses on bith sides of the engine. Look for cracks in them. As well as the vacuum hose right behind the throttle body.

Do you have a catch can? If so make sure it is sealed properly.

Spray around the s/c cover with the TRD logo. As well as check the couplings of the intake. Might be loose.

 

I haven't sprayed anything around the engine bay. I haven't driven the truck for a couple of weeks. It currently has a little over 28,000 miles.

I do have a catch can. I did a visual inspection of the hoses running to the pcv and intake from the catch can and they look good and are not loose. I will have to check the one behind the TB and on the passenger side of motor.

 

I've already had this problem in the past with my 2005 and only happen when wheater was very hot.

Do you have a MAF calibrator or something elses? Have you work on the throttle body? Sure your filter is not dirty lol. Have you try to disconnect the battery?

 

No MAF calibrator or anything else. I unbolted the TB about a month ago when I purchased the s/c coupler & s/c oil change kit. I was going to replace the coupler but once I got down to unbolting the nose drive I started with the 13mm nut and it didn't break loose from the stud. The stud and nut both started to come out together and there isn't enough room to remove them together. So I just changed the s/c oil. Air filter is clean I cleaned it the same time I tried to replace the s/c snout coupler. I have not disconnected battery.

 

Do you know if your problem has begun after you unbolt the throttle body? I asked the question cause it happened to me after dismantling the TB. The problem was mostly at iddle or close to iddle. I would try to disconnect the battery.

 

I just had this happen with my 1st gen TRD intake. Check your silicone intake couplers. There might be a crack in one of them. One of mine ended up ripping. GL

 

I do not remember noticing the issue after I unbolted the TB. The truck set for about 2 1/2 weeks after doing the S/C oil change. It is most noticeable at freeway speed 70 mph when trying to do a light throttle steady speed that is when it starts "hesitating" and AFR goes lean. If I get back on the throttle it will smooth out the hesitation and AFR will come back to normal. I will disconnect the battery and double check all hoses and take my intake a part to inspect the silicone couplers when I return home in a few weeks which sucks because I want this fixed ASAP, I'm taking a camping trip soon.

Thanks I'll definitely check them out.

 

Okay I'm back at this again, I have checked the wiring at the MAF sensor and connector itself it all looks good. I checked my catch can fittings for a leak. I disconnected the battery for 2hrs yesterday then took it for a 15-20min drive. Hasn't changed a thing so far. Today I noticed while setting in the driveway with it running if I bring the RPM up slowly to 1700 it starts running lean about 16:1. Then as I slowly increase RPMs before I even get to 2,000 RPMs it goes dead lean and pegs my AFR gauge at 18:1.

 

Where is you AFR sensor installed?

Did you ever spray around the engine with it idling? To see if it changed the idle.

All vacuum ports, around injectors, intake couplings, & TB.

 

Wideband in pic below, Yes I disassembled and reassembled the CAI and checked all the silicone couplers for cracks, pin holes etc. I did spray all the vacuum lines, throttle body and injectors with carb cleaner and there was no change in idle. I wonder if something happened to the throttle body it seems like the on/off throttle engagement feels rough especially while shifting and the only time I can get it to go lean is in a light throttle steady cruise above 1,700rpms in all 6 gears.

 

Could you take some more pictures of your engine bay and post them? From different angles.

 

It's a stretch, but try wiggling the MAF sensor wiring around and see if the idle/afr react at all. Remote possibility that the MAF wiring has a short.

 

I wish the mods list were still available like it used to be, prior to the update.

Your filter isn't an oiled filter correct? As I know that AFe has two versions.

Have you pulled the MAF sensor and looked closely at it? Have you had the chance to try swapping MAF sensors with anyone?

You don't have a wired in MAF calibrator do you?

 

Mods are:AFE Stg.2 w/pro guard 7 oiled filter, jba shorties, urd y pipe, magnaflow catback, urd fuel pump & filter kit (walbro pump), stealth pulley.

I have swapped the MAF with a brand new OEM Denso unit.

I do not have a MAF calibrator

 

Let me know if you need more pictures.

 

I know this is a bit of a stretch but maybe try cleaning the throttle body and pull the battery cables again. Whats the definition for P0101?

 

Thank you for the pictures.

In the picture with the outlined AFE sensor, there is a silicone vacuum hose running towards the OEM FPR. In the most recent pictures, that hose is gone and bothered the intake and FPR are capped. Is this correct, and are these most recent pictures of a newer timeframe that the AFR sensor picture?


Also, since you said that the AFe filter is their "oiled" filter, there is a simple test you
can do. Clean the MAF sensor, then remove the filter. Do some test driving, on "clean" roads. Or whatever it takes that is simplest to reactive the CEL. If it doesn't come back on, then clean the oil off of your filter. And you'll be good.

 

Yes I just took these pictures today. The OEM FPR is capped off and well at the port on the intake tube.

I will do this in the morning! Thanks Tor!