Truck just back from the dealer/new frame

Not true, but dealers seem to refuse to touch the 2gen frames (maybe they hope to get work replacing those too )
Your best bet is to sand rust and put primer then paint on it. See if some body shop can do it for you.

 

you call that rusty, you should see my 05, its even been undercoated and I have 10X as much rust as you coming through the undercoat.

 

that sucks nad...my dad has an 05' and his is way worse than mine.

 

Rust-o-leum makes similar product called Rust Reformer. I used it beneath the battery box on my old truck and it fought off battery acid fairly well.

 

You have to believe the 05's and 06's will be next, as you can bet Toyota used the same company to make these frames also....

The rust products mentioned above seem to be good as they were used on auto TV shows a couple of times....its hard to address the rust inside the frame though, I should have been smart and had it coated when it was new...
I wonder if Toyota will offer $$$ to turn in your truck versus getting the frame replaced...if a offer came along I would might consider it but would hate to give up my well maintained 06 with 38K on it....as its just getting broken in besides finding a truck/color/options would be hard to do.....lol..
Jeff 06, V6, SR 5, 6spd....

 

Moisture isn't the problem when it comes to the oxidation reduction reaction with metal, "rust". The reduction of the metal to ionic form takes place with the presence of O2 from our air. ( 4Fe + 3O2 ---> 2Fe2O3 ) If the oxygen came from H2O it would require the Oxygen molecule break both Hydrogen bonds (which are relatively strong) instead of the bond between two Oxygen molecules (requires a lot of energy). When that much energy is applied to the moisture it merely evaporates and is removed from the area; water keeps its form H2O (very very very stable molecule). The Moisture with salt merely provides the medium for the reaction to take place; Moreover, if you remove the O2 source with a paint barrier, the Reaction won't occur in that area.

Redox reactions "Rusting" require an equal amount of positive and negative ions, that is why heavy salted (NaCl) states are perfect for rust. The Na+ ions and Cl- ions provide the missing ions to complete the reaction when Fe and O2 change from the neutral form to the Ionic form (Fe^3+, O^2-) prior to forming Fe2O3 ---> "Rust"; The salt allows the rust to form at a exponential rate.

Thus, painting the Iron separates it from the Oxygen source, which renders the reaction incomplete. This does not mean the reaction can't occur inside the frame of the truck. Unless similar measures are taken.

Sorry Long winded.

 

I read it 2x and still don't know what you said. All them numbers, letters and smart talk, slow your roll. It's only you're second post, that's too deep for that. Start off with a post on -which lift is best, or how can I get better MPG's.

 

haha long time reader, and with the search button I never have questions that I cant find answers. That is why I don't post, and it seems there are far better mechanics on these forums than I am. But I had yet to find an explanation of rust; one of my degrees is in Chemistry, so I thought I would post it.

 

I used this product on my first car: http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

I can say without doubts that this product is strong. It works.

It's costly, but you paint only one time (two coats) and you forget about it. This paint is hard to chip or cracks.

However, you need to follow carefully the instructions.

 

They don't. 1st gen frames were made by Dana. 2nd gen frames are made by Hino (Toyota's commercial truck subsidiary). In 2011, Dana paid Toyota $25 million to settle the frame rust claim. http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/01/12/retire-us-dana-idUSTRE70B7KZ20110112

My Taco after 2.5 winters is looking better underneath than my Subaru after 1.5 winters.

Rust protection doesn't have to be elaborate. I simply brushed some store brand black rust paint on my sliders. No prep. No primer. Did the same to areas on the All-Pro bumper where the powder coating had flaked off. They are both holding up fine against the road salt.

 

POR15 FTW!!!

Did a Camaro subframe in it. great stuff.

 

Well, I heard all this and didn't know if it was crap or truth!

So I contacted one of the major manufactures of rust stopping products and they told me the following:

To have your vehicles frame done with or product would cost several thousand dollars.

Life expectancy for the treatment would be from 2 to 3 years at most, your best bet would be to contact local "Body Shops" and see what they would charge to apply the coatings.

I emailed 3 companies, this was the only one that responded and they had a "caveat" that basically said I could be sued if I used there name .

Having to have this done every couple years could get very expensive , I have read and searched a great deal on this subject. Some of the above posts talk about using Rustoleum paint for a cure. From the things I have read it is useless.

Please don't believe the things say without doing your own searches and contacting the Manufacture of whatever product you know of.

If you get some good news please contact me.

 

My 2005 is at a dealer in Haverhill Ma. It has been there for 5 1/2 months. Still waiting for parts. They gave me a Camry rental on their dime. I want my truck back. This is ridiculous

 

Holy thread revival...

 

My 2005 is at the dealer for frame replacement. Been there for 5 1/2 months. Waiting for parts. They gave me a 2014 Camry rental. I want my truck back!