Truck starts but won’t drive. No codes. SOLVED

When I put it in drive and go to give it gas it barely creeps forward if at all. I’m talking a foot. And if I give it more gas it’ll stall out and die. It will roll in neutral just fine. If I have it in gear and on a hill it will roll just fine. Almost feels like my parking brake is engaged but it’s not. Only when I put it in Low will it move a little better but I still wouldn’t call it normal, even for Low. The engine sounded like it was misfiring for a bit, but that has smoothed out now. I did have a very strange cold start that’s hard to explain lol. And we did get rain last night.

It has only done this once before and last time I left it parked for a day or two and then it drove perfectly normal like nothing happened. My temps are great via scangauge and I have NO NEW CODES. Last time this happened I didn’t get a code either. I have 318,000 on the truck and maybe 20,000 on a fresh head gasket and two new heads that I replaced myself. Spark plugs and wires were replaced last year too with denso and NGK. My gut tells me the transmission is starting to get finicky with its current mileage. But Idk for sure.

I’m fairly mechanically inclined for my age (I like to think) but this has me stumped at the moment. This is my dd so I’m not too stoked with the situation. Open to your thoughts and opinions. Thx gents.

 

Now it won’t even stay on. It will turn over and fire up for 2 seconds then immediately die.

 

The initial issue was sounding like the transmission, but the updated issue doesn't track with that.

Start with the basics, Air, Fuel, Spark. Is there something blocking air flow into the engine? Are the fuel filter(s) clogged? Are all the spark plug wires and distributor connected and in good shape, distributor not cracked?

Wouldn't hurt to check the transmission fluid level for the original issue. Also check the coolant, I don't know if the 1st gen has a transmission cooler integrated into the engine coolant radiator, but if it does, a crack could lead to mixing trans fluid and engine coolant, which is bad for both.

 

Well it's not a plugged cat it would throw a code

 

Coolant is good. I’m not suspecting trans oil but I’ll check it out. I do have the p0420 but I’ve had it for years as well as a p0450 for for past 4-5 months. Truck has been running fine with both. Wires looked good. I’m almost hoping that it would be a cat but I feel like that would be a gradual problem not sudden like this. Unless I’m wrong??

 

cat would never leave you to not propel...
if it was at that point, engine wouldn't stay running....

You didnt see or side stepped my question, does fluid smell burnt at all?
or has a metallic sheen to it, if you start running your finger through it like your drawing????

Im just saying to unload the rear diff, if the trans is slipping really bad, you make get some movement with the wheels off the ground...
taking the safe out & watching the output shaft would be a better indictor but more work....

I dont know much about the toyota auto trans front pump, not sure if a band can all of a sudden break & loose all gears....?
visual condition of trans fluid & smell should be #1 indicator...

 

I disconnected the battery for awhile. Just reconnected it. Still won’t stay on. Dies in about 2 seconds.

scangauge is now showing a p1300 code though. Electrical igniter issue?

 

Almost sounds like lack of power due to completely plugged up catalytic converter, ever hear a random rattles sound under the truck like your honeycomb / cat converter material is breaking up?

 

To eliminate that out of the equation, pull the exhaust from the exhaust manifold, slide your pipes back, just a little bit, so the engine can breathe, you can run it that way for a few minutes without an issue, if all of a sudden everything is fine, it’s moving, haul ass, etc. exhaust is plugged

 

I never have no.

 

Exhaust system can be so plugged, it won’t stay running or idle

 

I’ve just never heard of a cat plugging up that fast overnight. I almost hope it is cus that’s an excuse for a full exhaust replacement lol

 

My GMC Sonoma went from zero issues driving into work to barely making it back home. Chunk of comb had broken off and gotten lodged in the outlet. It would idle but past 1500 RPM, nothing more even with the pedal to the floor. [well it hissed like a nest of snakes]

 

had a similar issue that i couldn't diagnose, thought it might be a fuel delivery issue initially but ruled it out after cracking the fuel line and turning the key just to see fuel come out. ended up pulling the sending unit out anyway because i had a new pump and discovered the rubber hose that connects the pump the sending unit hardline was split. could deliver just enough fuel to sputter to life and stay running but any load it would die.

 

Well that does make me feel a little better.

 

If in park & you snap the throttle hard & it doesnt sound sluggish & responds quickly, get to rpm, chances are its not a plugged cat, but were playing charades at this point...
make sense? If cats are so plugged its not moving, by you revving the shit out of it, it should be lethargic & not respond very quickly...
But you mention misfire, barely moving, stalling.....

 

The more I think about and put it all together it does make sense for it to be the cats. Especially being at 318,000 on original cats and being a dd since 200,000. I just don’t wanna get ahead of myself.

 

if youre doing cats, be 100% certain you dont have some sort of underlying misfire concern, will wipe them out in no time....
I saw it all the time, cat converter replacements was my gravy....

Customers drive their cars around for weeks while misfiring here & there, cuz its never a convenient time to get repairs done....
They have things to do, placed to go...
Well that lack of time for $500 tune, just cost them $3500.....

 

Are you sure your battery and alternator are working properly? I haven't seen any mention of it and while probably not the problem, would be good to ensure both are doing what they should.

 

Ok I crawled underneath and banged against the upstream cat. Definitely something shaking around inside.
I’m gonna disconnect the o2 sensor and see if it starts better