Truck starts for 2-3 seconds then stalls. Need help.

I have a 1996 Tacoma with 2.7L engine. Recently, I had to replace the MAF sensor, the alternator and the battery. After getting this done, I went to start my truck, it started for 2-3 seconds, and then just died. I listened near the tank when my wife started it once and I could hear the fuel pump running. I am running out of diagnosis ideas...
I wanted to see if anyone have a good idea or has run into this problem yourself, before I go buying a bunch of parts. Any help would be much appreciated!
(Haven't seen any related posts on the forum.)

 

It is not uncommon when replacing the battery for your ECU needing to relearn some basic engine operating info. Start your truck, and put your foot into the gas just enough to keep it running at something around 2k RPM (in park/neutral) for roughly one minute. The ECU should re-learn what it needs and your truck will idle on its own again.

 

If that doesn't work then I'd look into the MAF sensor you just installed, maybe it got dirty somehow when you were putting it in (the sensor itself is extremely sensitive). Maybe try cleaning it with MAF cleaner

 

Did you replace the MAF sensor yourself?

 

Is the Malfunction Light On if so pull the code

 

Make sure the maf is actually connected and in stream. Thats exactly the behavior you get if the intake tube isn't hooked up. you can usually force it to keep running, badly, by working the throttle but it won't keep runnibg or get any better.

 

If you turn on the defrost (or the AC) it'll kick up the idle a bit - may help troubleshoot this issue.

 

Any time I had this happen the MIL is tripped P1300 the ECM does not see the Igniter Signal so the fuel is shut off.

Starts and shuts off it will do this to the battery is dead unless the problem is fixed.

A few other codes will shut off the fuel as well without looking I can`t recall them

 

I had to change an igniter once and the truck ran for another 10 years (then another 10 years after I sold the truck) and check the ground wires are clean

 

Thanks for all the help guys! I did recently replace the MAF sensor and put it in myself and kept it in the packaging until install, to keep it clean. I did notice after it started I forgot to tighten the air tube connecting to the MAF (dumbass move), so I tightened it down real good. I will try some of your tips tomorrow morning when I get off work and see how they work. Thanks again! Updates coming soon.....

 

Ok guys, so I finally got around to messing with my truck and I figured something out. So with all the new equipment the truck acts as I posted; but, if I disconnect the MAF, the truck runs. It runs like it has no MAF but it will stay running. Does that mean that I got a bad part or am I missing something?

 

May be a bad sensor, but try cleaning it with MAF cleaner before writing it off just to see if maybe it got dirty somehow.

If that doesn't work I'd pick up another one and give it a shot, if it works you know you got a bad one the first time and hopefully you can return it.

 

I'll try the cleaner. I tried to start the truck and then reconnect the MAF and it died immediately.

 

My guess would have been the old banana in the tail pipe trick...

 

I'll check that too, lol.

 

At no time are you getting a code??

 

Ok just got back from advanced auto. The guy said I had the MAF circuit code, but it was disconnected. I cleaned the MAF with the cleaner and changed the air filter, but when I plug in the MAF or try to start the truck with the MAF plugged in, it stalls. I guess I'll have to replace it again, because I can not think of anything else...

 

So I’m having the same exact issue it will crank for literally 2 seconds then die. It’s a never ending loop. Unplugged the oem MAF and boom it runs. Headed to get a new MAF.

 

Same here so frustrating!!!! I did however see that one of my valve cover bolts didn’t look right. I couldn’t believe it but everyone of them I could move with my fingers (except for 2 because couldn’t reach them). But that didn’t fix crank start die! I no longer have the codes p0100 or p0110 but still won’t run either!!

 

check the tube that runs from the air cleaner to the plenium, any air leaks will cause a stall. when mine cracked, it was the same as what you have explained. but if I held the accelerator for a minute i could let off the gas and maintain idle but if i shut the ignition off and tried to restart (even just seconds) I would be back at square one with holding foot on gas pedal.