Truck struggles to start

You actually can buy a battery on your own and send the receipt to Toyota for reimbursement and you will explain that the dealer was not open at time of failure.

 

What is this the reflexive picture postings?

 

PA

 

So update to it, tech said that they have been dealing with this issue for the 16 Tacoma. He said the batteries are not the proper battery for this truck. They did replace it, basically they put a Prius battery in Tacoma as his analogy lol.

 

Just waiting for Toyota to make the same acknowledgment for our engine and transmission

 

I've always been told to disco the positive first when removing a battery

And connect the negative first when installing a battery.

 

Now that IS a PLAGUE that the 3rd gen owners are dealing with!!

I honestly didn't think it was possible to like a truck this much when i absolutely hate the engine/trans combo!

 

That is backwards.

 

The one with the best free replacement (hassle free) policy. Costco used to be OK but I've found Walmart batteries to be just fine.

 

Every replacement battery i've purchased in the last 12 yrs (at any one time there are four to six vehicles in my family that i am ultimately responsible for) has been Interstate. Not one has ever lasted less than than 5 yrs... no matter what we put them through. I simply can't even try another battery i have had such good luck with them!

 

I had a battery from Costco in my old Jeep. It died after 2 years. I took it back and they replaced it no charge and no hassle.

 

Is the size still a 27F on 3rd Gen?

 

Toyota gave me $200 bucks towards the cost of the battery as all batteries Plus had was a Northstar AGM it ended up costing me about $100 bucks and I had no issues after....

So back the nightmare shit that is Toyota and they put the same battery in the 17!

 

OP, I'm glad they did the right thing by you.

 

Correct.

The entire point of disconnecting the negative terminal first is to prevent the possibility of welding your wrench to the truck if you slip while loosening the positive terminal.

The order @RIDERED67 listed *is* however correct for jumper cables. Reason there is similar, you reduce the chance of a live positive terminal coming back to ground on the same vehicle. Additionally, you make the last (negative) connection to the engine block or solid frame ground away from the dead battery so as to minimize the chance of a hydrogen explosion showering you with battery acid.

EDIT: ... and you reverse the order when putting a battery back in or removing the jumper cables. For battery replacement, attach to the positive terminal first and tighten to spec, then the negative terminal second. With jumper cables, remove the negative lead from the dead battery vehicle, then negative lead from the good battery. Then remove the positive lead from the good battery, and finally remove the positive lead from the bad battery.

 

A dealership near me was doing "Nightmare Edition" F150s, the decals were actually very similar to that. From what I could tell it was just a lift/wheel/flare package, always made me laugh though.

 

Mine started in northern Idaho last weekend parked for 2 days and when I started it it had a foot of snow on it -18 degrees started no problem. I think it may be battery related?

 

Oh so basically same as the TRD PRO

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-batteries-free-battery-installation.469098/