Truck turning off sounds like his drowning

Ok Taco World let me Start by saying this.... if it ain't broke don't fix it.
3 months ago i buy my 1995 Tacoma 2.4 manual. Truck is perfect one owner garage kept the whole 9.
So it begins, "if it ain't broke dont fix it". Well with all good intentions and to know for myself. On all my used vehicles i give them a tune up.
I order NGK Vpower Per gaped plugs. I remove air intake from the throttle body disconnect from MAS i put painter's tape covering MAS didn't want nothing getting in there. i Figured since i now have Access i should spray throttle body liffters went threw just about a can. Sprayed with throttle door open and closed. Continuing the changing of plugs. Im on my last plug when the boot is stuck i tryed spraying WD40 nothing end up happening stem to the boot broke. So i get new wires plug reconnect everything back together . Truck runs good into the second day i notice my Rpm bouncing . I pullover truck won't start. After many attempts of cranking the key it starts But dies after as if the engine was flooded. Pop the hood Rev the throttle cable to keep engine from turning off and to get me home. Over the weekend i take throttle body apart clean the thing good its been done at a shop. Lubbed all moving parts cleaned Mas sensor gaped plugs to specs in case that was reason. Truck ran like a Champion then the problem came back.... What The Heck!!!!????? Shifting 2nd to 3rd its jerky no power and maybe its me but when i really rev high and shift gears the exhaust has a sweet smell its just not the normal smell i guess... Can Anyone Help!!!!!

 

Sounds to me like a clogged cat

 

I tried google translate and even it was confused?

 

Down south it's short for catalytic converter lol

 

check engine light?

 

I got through the first sentence and gave up. I don't really know what this dude is trying to ask.

 

Check light just came on .
Im thinking maybe the throttle body position sensor. The Cat is new... i think when i opened that throttle body lifter to spray somehow all that gunk maybe dirtyed a sensor

 

My truck is stalling turns off a few times a day turns back on. Rpm needle jump around when I'm at red lights. When changing gears it struggles to catch a steady Idol it's almost as it's drowning. Have to really floor it between shifts.

 

Suggestions:
1.) go back to the regular plugs
2.) recheck the wires to make sure they are connected correctly and snug (Both sides)
3.) Clean the MAF with MAF cleaner, nothing else (MAF not MAS)
4.) You may have gotten spray into the IAC, and need to replace
5.) you said you cleaned the TB, did you use TB cleaner and nothing else?

 

What the hell is a "throttle body lifter"?
You sprayed what where? Guessing you screwed the MAF sensor up, anything but maf or electronic cleaner and it is toast. If you got throttle body cleaner on it or really screwed up and used carb cleaner on it or the throttle body, you done did messed up.

 

And in reviewing your origonal post, did you take OFF the tb to clean it? You may have to, also check the TPS if you have one to see if it is working, tho I have a 3.4 and not a 2.4. Also on mine the IAC was all gunked up and needed some TLC in the way of major cleaning.

 

Let me try and clear my original thread and what has been done to truck.
(1) Changed plugs NGK iridium
(2) New Wires NGK
(3) Throttle body taken completely off and cleaned at a shop
(4) MAF Cleaned With correct MAF CRC Cleaner
During the first removal of everything i taped the sensor so nothing got in there.
(5) distributor cap and rotor changed
(6) fuel pressure is 45-50 PSI
(7) New Cat installed September of last year


Whats wrong with truck
1. Engine ck light on
2. Idol needle bouncing aronud when stopped as if truck wants to turn off
3. Truck does turn off but will turn over and start again
4. Between shifting theres hesitation
5. Low power

 

Vacuum lines hooked back up correctly

 

So whats the CEL code?

 

Call me lazy but if I had a CEL I'd go to the nearest parts chain store and have them scan it as I don't have a code reader.

You truck is doing what mine did when the IAC motor wasn't working properly. Got one through work (lexus in socal) for around $36. When I installed I cleaned the TB still on the truck. The new sensor plus that cleaning completely fixed the issue. You've already cleaned your TB so now I'd just remove and clean thoroughly or replace that IAC.

 

Could the IAC sensor be cleaned damn thing is $207 @ autozone socal? I might have to ebay motor this one. Thanks to all that had helpful comments. I'll give you guys an update.

 

ebay has IAC for $40-$50

go back to the normal regular NGK or Nippon denso spark plugs, nothing else works as good or lasts as long

these trucks run best on STOCK replacement parts so don't be installing any "upgrade" or "performance" parts on them or you waste money and it often makes them run worse

 

"Sweet Smell" from exhaust might be coolant...

 

I had changed the plugs out with Vpower NGK good-for-nothing mechanics put the Iridium ones in. Those are supposed to be better than the ones I had originally put in. I think they dont think they helped at all

 

Iridiums are good for using in high performance engines or high compression engines where you get some benefit from using them but are just a waste of $ for low compression loose tolerance engines like in our trucks where that $8 Iridium plug works no better then the $2 stock plug you should be using in it.

I dont think the plugs are your present problem but it will run better if you just use these from now on

option A - NGK 2460 {#BKR5ES} http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spark-Plug-...ash=item25ac69a2ce:g:eFAAAOSwDNdV3f13&vxp=mtr

or

option B - DENSO 3119 {#K16RU} http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spark-Plug-...ash=item41a50f3293:g:7VoAAOSwe7BWymRh&vxp=mtr

both are to be gapped at .32