Truck won’t start in neutral [SOLVED]

2007 V6 automatic. 220k miles. 33” tires. 4.10 diff gears. OTT tune.
Things I’ve checked:

- ATF level
- dash lights correspond to all shift detents
- truck does not start in any forward gears or reverse
- no DTCs

I came across the issue because I recently noticed the truck was very slow to downshift into ‘L’ going down steep mountain grades. It shifts quicker on level ground. The no crank in neutral seems to point to the NSS but again, no codes and PRNDL all light up correctly. Maybe it’s still going bad? Is there a procedure to test resistance in the switch and harness?
As to the slow down shift, maybe just age and pressure loss or solenoids crapping out? Was planning on IPT shift kit soon to see if it helps, so that would be a good time to change any solenoids. TIA!

Edit & Solution:
My park neutral switch (transmission range sensor) was misaligned all along. I ended up getting a code (P0705 - defective transmission range sensor) and wasted money replacing it. It had been done by the PO before as I found a gouge on the shift shaft that I didn’t cause. Alignment is finicky. A c-hair one way or the other and it still wouldn’t start in neutral. All solved now. Thanks to all who chimed in to help!

 

Just out of curiosity, why are you trying to start it in neutral? Does it start in park?

I know those range sensors on the side of the trans case are prone to getting rust and corrosion inside on the contacts. It could inhibit the starting circuit and not set a code

 

Many ATRA shops will provide you a free diagnosis. I'd start there if you suspect auto trans issues. https://www.atra.com/

 

I wouldn't go anywhere near a shop that offers free diagnosis

 

That is why I’m posting here

 

I just wanted to see if it would. It does start in P though.

I don’t wanna fire the parts cannon. A new NSS runs about 3 hundo. Hoping I can just test it along with the harness before going down that route.

Edit: Actually it’s much cheaper than I had in mind:
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...odel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()&location=pd:,

 

But that kinda is the test, seeing if it starts in Park or neutral or vice versa. At least for testing a suspect range sensor.

You could pull the connector and do some resistance tests through the sensor in the different positions

 

Also, and I’m not sure if it is related: My cruise control works only sometimes, but most of the time it does not. If this were the only issue I would think spiral cable but it’s not the only issue. Horn still works as well

 

I don’t have the whole FSM (assuming the test procedure is even in there), so I’d be doing this blind not knowing what resistance ranges to look for

 

@Dm93

 

I can tell you that the wire for Neutral indicator light is NOT the same as the one that allows the truck to start.

I will see if I can find the test procedure.

 

Thx. Are you sure this is from the 2005+ FSM? Can you also post the procedure to test the harness? I think that’s done at the ECM?

 

If it starts in Park but not Neutral it can't really be anything other than the Park/Neutral Position Switch (the switch itself or the switch being out of adjustment), it's the same 2 wires. The switch is supposed to close in Park and also in Neutral.
The switches that tell the PCM and Combination Meter what position it's in are separate circuits from the starting circuit even though they are contained in the same unit.

 

Aha. So that’s why the testing procedure Tnshooter posted above shows 2 different test lead connections per shift position, and why I have indicated neutral gear but no crank in neutral… Thanks for posting the EWDs!

 

@Dm93 the testing procedure above shows only one testing leads connection for D&4. So that’s one and the same circuit that sends the position signal to the cluster (works) as well as the cruise control circuit (rarely works)? So would that still point towards the unrelated spiral cable even though my horn works 100%?

 

Does your cruise light turn on and off with the switch like it's supposed to?

 

The reason for D-4 and 2-L is because they do not go through the PNS?
If you notice, they “Slide” left and right on the shift console. They are not being moved by the shift cable.
4 and L are being commanded by the shift console. Not the PNS.

 

Yes. But when it does, which is rare, then CC works as intended.

 

Yes but only if you toggle between them so same question still