Truck won't start (2.7l)

Went to start the truck, started like normal. I moved it into the driveway from the street. About an hour later, I tried to start it again and the starter cranks but the engine doesn't fire. A few times it almost started. Almost, as in, I can hear the engine trying to fire up but just can't fire up. I jump started the battery, cleaned the terminals to no avail. I cleaned the MAF and throttle body to no avail. It should be noted, almost a year ago, my truck was unable to idle. It started but I would have to hold my foot on the gas in order to keep it running. I followed advice from this forum and cleaned my IAC valve. I didn't take it apart, just cleaned it along with the throttle body. This solved that problem. Any ideas? 2001 Pre runner 2.7l, 260,000 mi.

 

Also, spark plug are about two years old, I have not pulled them due to the fact the truck was running just fine prior.

 

I'd start at the fuel pump or relay, is it getting fuel?

 

Or even a clogged fuel filter.

 

I just changed the filter 10,000 mi ago. I have yet to check fuel and spark.

 

bad fuel pressure regulator

very, very bad intake leak.

very, very clogged cats/mufflers.

bad ignition control module. call the local autoparts stores and see if they have a DIS tester to test control modules.

bad fuel pump.

can you check to see what codes it's giving?

 

I'm going to borrow my buddies scanner and check for codes. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Plugged in scanner, no codes. Probably just going to take it to the mechanic. I am very busy with work and don't have time to diagnose/fix it.

 

Any chance you left the key on, but the engine not running? Thus causes the fuel pump to run. The injectors weep gas into the intake the whole time the truck is sitting. When you try to start, the engine acts like it is flooded...which it is.

 

Engine has to be turning over for the fuel pump to run on these trucks. Key in on position dosent run or prime the pump.

 

The 3.4 does, didn't realise the 2.7 was different.

 

Oh, well i was in the same boat. Didnt realize the 3.4 was different from the 2.7! I thought they were both the same in that reguard. Good to know...

 

It's not, both require cam (2.7) or crank (3.4) signal for the ECU to enable the pump.

 

Ahh thanks for the clarification! I thought the pump didnt engage till the motor cranked reguardless of motor but mr. koditten usually knows his stuff with these trucks so i had no reason to question it.

Damn it koditten! Spreadin faulty info! Just kiddin, no worries!

 

Check the EFI fuse and EFI relay in the fuse panel inside engine compartment. If that fuse is blown, or relay is bad it will not start.

 

I checked all fuses and switched relays around and no go. I took it to the mechanic, he called me within an hour of dropping it off and told me there was no compression. He said probably a bad timing chain but wasn't sure. I never heard any weird noises from the engine, simply a no start. He also said there may be broken teeth where the timing chain sits. again, he was just speculating. He will tear into the engine next week.

 

Not really. The fuel pump will charge the fuel rail when the key is on, but motor not running. The injectors will not feed fuel until the engine cranks.

If you have leaky injectors, the pressure bleeds down and the pump will cycle. I have this going on, but not to the extent that Jen had it.

I have to leave my key on for 15 minutes or more for me to flood the engine.

The only reason I figured this out was I needed to charge my phone. The damn plugs shut off with the key. I had to leave the key on to charge the phone. I was having lunch with the wife at the beach and kept hearing an electric motor sound every 2-3 minutes. I thought is was the vacuum for the charcoal canister. As soon as I went to start the truck I knew what was going on. (thanks to Jens thread). I will be needing injectors in the future.

 

So the pump charged even with the key in the acc position?

 

Timing chain is good. Most likely cylinder head is bad. Mechanic quoted me $850 to rebuild head, plus labor. I am going to do it since truck has 260,000 mi.

 

Should I replace the timing chain, guide and tensioner at this point? I feel like I should since the mechanic is already in there. He said it looks good. He mentioned the hydraulic tensioner may be weak.