Truck Won't Start - Help Diagnose.

Just from that there that doesn't really tell us much. Just that it's intermittent and that somewhere there is an intermittent disconnect in the circuit.
Is there a lot of play in the shifter?

 

Yes, typical play in shifter. The shifter can be moved one letter distance without actually engaging the gear.

 

Next time you get no start condition, keep key turned as if trying to start and move the shifter up towards the P and see if that helps. Or do you already know that does help it start?

 

Does your alarm system have a starter interrupt relay?
If your unsure you'll have to remove the panel under the steering column to check. It will be a loose relay probably zip tied to the harness.
Check for any of the wires going to ign switch have been cut into.

 

Good point on the trade in, but if you buy a limited lifetime from say Autozone which is a rebuilt duralast form unknown brand wouldn't that be near as good? Worst case you bring back for a new one in 3 years. Bringing this up because my starter is bad on my taco and have been doing the hammer.

 

No.

 

Not the same quality, but an option that only requires a swap..

 

Does the battery have charge?

 

Yes?

 

What am i missing here? Can you elaborate? I have a truck that doesn't start I've owned it for 2 weeks and read a few threads on the same symptoms. Not to thread jack the OP's original post..

 

can be a number of things, primary thing to check is battery charge/load test,

 

Nada. I just didn't know what else to say. You got the correct info if you found it from my post. Now go and make your decision knowing the truth of what you know.
If I was in your shoes, I would pull the starter and open the solenoid cover and look at the contacts. I would have the contacts on hand before I opened it up. You can get contacts and a plunger at like an auto/elec house. We have a couple here in city, I imagine you do to. But they're cheap to have on hand and replace. It's the number one reason people replace their starter, the contacts. Any other questions?

 

Following... Sporadically, I encounter this problem. Wait 15-20 minutes and then the truck will start. May not happen again for 6 mos to a year, then one day - nada. Always happens when engine warm/hot. Contacts replaced after the second occurrence. Most recently, wouldn't start at the smog shop. Let then next customer go ahead of me and then the truck started - and passed smog too....

 

I couldn’t agree more. I replaced mine in 20 minutes start to finish. Mine welded shut which was very interesting at 4:30 am before coffee

 

PS, do not replace your starter with that AutoZone type stores junk. Buy the parts to rebuild the solonoid. Contacts are less than ten bucks and a ten year old can do it.

 

I've had no-start issues when engine was cold or hot. ..and when the outside temps were hot or cold.

A couple of days ago I replaced the battery (because I didn't know what else to do and was getting tired of jumping it) and didn't have a no-start issue until today at the Subaru dealer. Clearly, it's not a battery issue.

Keeping the truck. Just need to replace my daily driver.

 

If this is a no crank situation and replacing the starter didn't solve the problem then it is a wiring issue. A voltage drop test on the starter wiring circuit has to be preformed. The wires for the starter on this truck are probably 20 years old and they don't last for forever. Any corrosion at the positive battery cable is a sure sign that that cable needs to be replaced. In addition, if the factory positive end has been replaced and a "clamp" type battery cable end has been installed, well, those things are just crap.

 

The starter hasn't been replaced.
Interesting statement about the battery clamp. What other type of connection is there?

 

there is a crimp style but that requires a large pair of crimpers. Battery sellers usually have these for making cables. If there is any corrosion at the battery end the entire cable should be replaced. While this is one potental problem it is not the only problem, it needs to be diagnosed and trying to diagnose an electrical issue over the internet is tough.

 

The original positive clamp is a separate part from the cables bolted to it. That's unlike the negative side where the cables and clamp are a single part from Toyota. I don't agree that if the positive clamp is corroded that the wires are also corroded.