Truck won't turn in 4wd

I backed off when I felt resistance so I think I'm good on that front

 

If you really want to monkey around with it, disconnect your rear driveshaft and put the front end up on jack stands while it's in 4wd. If you spin one tire hard, it should spin independently of the other tire. If you spin slow they might still spin together. You can turn the wheel and mess around with this and see if anything happens to be binding in a weird way

 

I'm sure you are, it happens all the time. I've experienced binding before even on offroad trails, especially in places with a lot of traction like Moab. Just have to know when to stop/when not to push it.

I did blow a CV axle once turning off a snowy street into a covered gas station, hit the dry part of the concrete and heard a snap. Drove down the road to the sound of a floppy CV axle wompwompwompwompwomp

Point being, you'll know if you broke something lol

 

Nah...I think I'll just wait for the next snow. Jeep will be sad but will get over it

 

Welcome to TW

 

Soooo.... What is the point of manual locking hubs? I'm getting edumacated

 

Locking hubs, also known as free wheeling hubs are fitted to some (mainly older) four-wheel drive vehicles, allowing the front wheels to rotate freely when disconnected (unlocked) from the front axle. This is done to reduce the mechanical resistance of the front-portion of the drivetrain when four-wheel drive is not in use.[1] The hub, along with the wheel, is designed to engage (lock) onto the axle, to be powered by the drivetrain in four-wheel drive; or the hub can disengage (unlock) from the axle when four-wheel drive is not needed, thus allowing the front wheels to rotate freely within the hub. The hub is a component where the wheel is directly mounted to, and is outside the axle.

It's just an older way of doing 4wd systems. Modern vehicle all lock their hubs automatically

 

In short:
They allow the hub and axle to “unlock”.
That way you aren’t turning the front axles in 2WD.

 

I ask because they have been in lock position ever since I bought the truck. Should I unlock them? This truck has been....tweaked so I'm afraid to do much lol

 

Yah, no reason to have them locked unless you are currently using the 4wd system. Just puts added wear and tear on the axles

 

I think the old saying goes -
There are 2 type of people that have Locking Hubs.
Those that have “forgot” to lock them, and those that will....

Yes, OP. Unlock them when you are in 2WD.

 

Although I know people who have done or did it fairly regularly, stay under 45 in 4hi and if I remember under 55 when hubs locked and in 2wd.

4hi and over 45 and you may lose traction unless it’s been upgraded.

If there was just very minor slipping, you probably didn’t need 4wd.

 

Just be glad your CV's are weaker then your transfer case. The bind occurs in the t-case not the diff. Then it locks up from the unequal rotation of the front and rear tires. If your lucky you blow a CV. If your unlucky you blow the input gear in the t-case. CV's are a hell of a lot easier to replace. lol

 

Welcome to TW!

 

Also you don’t have the 2.4L in your truck. You have the bigger 2.7L 3RZ engine. The 2.4L only came in the base model 2WD.

 

Welcome to TacomaWorld

 

This is why everyone's first upgrade should be an atlas T/C.

Actually I don't even know if atlas makes t/c's for the tacomas. Do they?

 

Be nice. We all started somewhere

 

They do. I almost went with an Atlas 4 instead of dual cases when I built my rig. The problem is it's a shit ton more work to get the Atlas to fit. It was only about 1K more to get the Atlas but the extra strength and work isn't really needed for the 3.4L whopping 190HP. lol

 

I'm getting out of the loop. I remember that the early taco guys were always running doublers, and us jeep guys ran clocked D300s with 4:1 gears or atlas t/c's