Trying to decide...

I have a 2023 Limited with JBL all stock audio system. I want to turn it up loud but not be distorted. I want to hear clearly the music, the lyrics. I want quality sound with some extra bass.
Went and got 2 quotes. Quote 1: Helix Match UP 8DSP, PAC AmpPro 4 APr-TY13, Helix IK S10 Woofer (2) & box behind back seats, Helix Ci3-C165.2Fm-S3 coax in the back doors and Helix Ci3 component front doors with dash. Tune and Install $5000 Also, if I want to change something in the future, they will retune it for me. Very personable, answered all questions I had, got the products so I could see them...Extreme Car Audio
Quote 2: Fosgate R2-750x5 amp, PAC AmpPro 4 APr-TY13, JL Audio 10W1v3-4 Woofer (2) & box for behind back seats, JL Audio CR-275mt tweeters, Hertz 6x9 Cento CX 690 front doors, Hertz 6.5 Cento CX165 in the back doors. Tune & install $4088...Mobile One. First question was how much I wanted to spend; I can understand the question but didn't expect it to be the first one. I guess find out first and work from there rather than go thru a quote to be told that's too much.

I'm not about to even try to install this stuff so I don't mind paying for a good install. I've checked the prices of all the different components, and they are pretty much in line with what I see online. But,I don't know how it all sounds. The different brands seem to have very good reviews online. All I know is, when I get in someone's car and the music is loud, but it is crystal clear and sounds phenomenal...I want it in my truck. For the first quote, they had somebody there that they just finished an install with the same components they quoted me, and they let me listen it. It did indeed sound phenomenal! Can anyone tell me if Quote 2 would (should) sound just as good? Any advice would be great...thanks!

 

If you’re going to do all that you will also want to upgrade your head unit and you might as well run dynamat throughout if you’re spending that much on a system.

you will want an amp for your speakers and a separate one for your sub


both should be a decent upgrade I doubt you’d be able to noticed a difference if you put the two side by side. opt 1 is better quality equipment and DSP is a plus. but once you turn up the sound you will likely rattle so be prepared or spend the money now to prevent it.

 

Maybe OEM Audio Plus. There system from what I hear is very good. All plug and play diy and you’ll spend about half.

 

They want $5199 for upgraded speakers and 2 8" subs. I imagine everything is going up

 

They both said I don't need a new head unit. Anything someone can suggest without going way overboard then? Just get a new quote from them but spending less and see what they say?
Thanks for the help!

 

You want a new head unit if you’re going aftermarket everything else.

If I were you I’d do the OEM audio or taco tunes plug and play system. Literally takes a few minutes to install.

Hell you could probably just start with a aftermarket sub and amp and see if that’s good enough for what you ultimately want.

You’re asking for a recommendation but since you’re replacing everything and you don’t want to do any of the install you should look for something that pairs well as a whole system vs individual components.

$5k should buy you all new equipment, sound deadening, and install. Id recommend calling around to get a few more quotes for an entire system replacement so the installer can recommend the components. He should at least have an idea of what will pair well.

 

Yeah. Those prices have gone up. Personally I’d could find much better things to do with 5k than spend it on a radio set up.

 

I would 100% go with quote 1.

 

Why do you like this one as opposed to the second?

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WD8QAdUbTyI
I just did this 5 channel Kenwood amp with built in signal processor (1600 watts). Kicker CompRT10” sub for $750. All that with the factory radio. People that tell you that you have to replace the factory head unit are wrong. You can keep the factory head unit and maintain steering wheel controls, back up camera and satellite radio. Watch this video and follow step by step. I had previously replaced my dash and door speakers already. So all in $1000

 

My real answer is complicated because neither of these packages is adequate in my opinion. Strictly between the two, I would choose the first because I believe the overall sound quality would be much better than the second package, even considering the considerable subwoofer power output loss. So, let's compare. It's difficult to get pricing for some Audiotec Fischer equipment that doesn't have a US vendor so some of these prices might not be really really accurate, but at least a ballpark comparison is possible. My math might not be amazing, I didn't check it closely. I have no idea what they are charging for the subwoofer box either, so consider that when you get to the bottom and see what I'm really thinking.

PAC AmpPro 4 APr-TY13 - $330
Match UP 8DSP - $1,150, 65Wx6 +90Wx2 @4Ω or 160Wx2 @2Ω
Helix IK S10 - $220x2, 300W DVC 2ohm, 87dB
Helix Ci3 C165.2Fm-S3 - $260 100W 88dB
HELIX Ci3 K165.2FM-S3 - $400 100W 88dB
Equipment: $2580

PAC AmpPro 4 APr-TY13 - $330
RF R2-750x5 - $490 50Wx4 @4ohm +200Wx1 or 350Wx1 @2ohm
JL 10W1v3-4 - $250x2, 300W SVC 4ohm 84dB
JL CF-275mt - $170 30W, 82dB 450Hz+
Hertz Cento CX 690 - $350 3Way, 100W 93dB
Hertz Cento CPK 690 - $500 2Way Component 120W 92dB
Hertz Cento CX 165 - $250 2Way, 70W 93dB
Equipment $2090 ($2070)

Amplifiers: Generally a Audiotec Fischer DSP amplifier is going to be a much better option, especially when compared to a RF amplifier that has no DSP, so even though the RF is a lot cheaper, you not only get a little more power with the Match, but also a DSP, and a really good one at that. The greatest advantage is that you can assign 4 channels for up front and actively cross your component speakers, providing more power and control over the spectrum balance as well as phase alignment.

Subwoofers: I don't know much about Helix speakers or subwoofers so just looking at the specifications, at equal power handling, you might get a little more volume with the Helix due to sensitivity, but with more XMax you get less distortion at the physical limit which favors the JL, it's kind of a toss-up and frankly I wouldn't choose either of these subwoofers for myself. The other consideration is that neither of these amplifiers will adequately power two 4ohm subwoofers at 2ohms final. The Helix subwoofer output would be 160W @2ohms, and the RF will do 350W @2ohms and so your sub power is anemic by 440W or 250W, enough to lose considerable output potential in either scenario. You cannot bridge channels A-F on the Match so there's no way to utilize more amplifier channels to get more power, and I don’t specifically see that you can bridge channels G-H either, but the manual isn’t in English so I’m not even sure two 2Ω DVC subwoofers is a good choice anyway.

Front Speakers: This one is complicated, it's not advisable to install 3-Way speakers in the lower door and Mid-Tweeter (semi full range) speakers in the dash. Helix components will provide much better balance and sound quality than all of that Cento +JL action up front. My prediction is that the Hertz Cento +JL package would be insanely bright and cause ear fatigue, and with no DSP to smash that, or time align, it's a recipe for total disaster on your front stage. You should absolutely be installing component speakers up front and nothing 2-3 Way in the door. You would be much better off with the Hertz CPK 690 set than the CX 690. With available power, the Hertz speakers will be louder, and the 1" Teloton tweeter will have a smoother/softer quality than the 3/4" Titanium dome tweeter that comes with the Helix component set.

Rear Speakers: Considering what you do in the front, the rear speaker selection should be complimentary. The Hertz speakers will be louder than the Helix and the tweeters will sound better IMO, but if you buy Helix speakers in front go with Helix in the rear, and if you buy Hertz speakers in the front, go with Hertz in the rear as well.

I guess my summary here is mixed in that while the Match/Helix package would sound better overall, it's not the best option overall because your subwoofer would just be anemic. The RF Hertz package, if you exchange for the component speakers in front you would definitely have volume, but the amplifier is underpowered (50W @4ohms) and you'll get no processing which contributes greatly to the overall sound quality, you'd have to run the front speakers using a passive crossover, but with the Match you can use active crossovers and bi-amplify the front components, a huge advantage but you will desperately need a separate subwoofer amplifier, like the Match UP 1FX.

So based on these two estimates, what I would do for myself would look something more like this.

PAC AmpPro 4 APr-TY13 - $330
Match UP 8DSP - $1,150, 65Wx6
Match UP 1FX - $400, 350W @4ohm, 600W @2ohm
Hertz Cento CPK 690 - $500 2Way Component, 120W 93dB
Hertz Cento CX 165 - $250 2Way, 70W 93dB
Hertz CS 250 S4 - $280x2 300WRMS, 84dB
Fox Acoustics TACO-210-16 - $350 subwoofer box, 1.55 Ft cubed 5.25" mount depth (or any box around 1.5 Ft cubed that fits).

Equipment: $3190 ($3540)

 

Thanks for all the info & recommendation! Just noticed your reply

 

That’s a lot of money for the Matchup amp and accessories. The Kenwood X803-5 has 75W x4 for the door/dash speakers and 500W rms at 2 ohms for the sub. It has signal processing and line in speaker inputs which eliminates half the equipment that you have listed.

 

He needs the PAC because he has the JBL system.

As far as the other stuff, sure there’s more than one way to skin a cat but these items are what’s available from his local shop and that’s what the question and my answer encompasses.

A 5 channel amplifier won’t allow for an active front stage either, limiting tuneability and reducing the amount of available power as well.

 

I failed to read the first sentence . You are correct