Tuff Country Traction Bar

Don't forgot the grade 8 - 5/8" bolt. They're like 5 buck each x 16 flat washer x 8 nylon nut x 8 split lock washer = easy $60 buck

Paint? $40 buck

 

The train of thought is all in this thread...
I have zero experience with this stuff, but I can visualize motion and forces. It would seem to me you gain the benefits of body roll control, pinion angle control, and transfer more energy to the ground regardless of the springs attached if the angles are done properly..

 

Well leafsprings dont only support the load. They also determine the travel path and pinion angle.

Your leaf springs and links would bind with each other if you could even figure out the packaging.

 

That was the determinant question that I wasn't sure of, thank you

 

If you want to do something ridiculous then you can assemble your own quarter elliptical suspension...

 

Heck yes, they're stupid expensive. I bought 2 grade 8 - 3/4-10x12" yellow zinc for my steering and they're $20 buck each. 40 buck + tax for 2 stupid piece of metal rod and the 2 nuts and 2 split washer is an extra 5 buck.

 

That just defeat the true purpose of a 4 link suspension. The concept is there, just not the true articulation.

It will be so much easier to run coilovers than designing the setup with inverted springs imo.

 

How does a single side traction bar not bind then? Or does it, but the opposing side is still independent so it can react?

 

Traction bars are mounted twice on the axle and once on the frame with a heim. It can bind in a leaf setup but usually leafs run out of travel first with a properly setup traction bar

 

So what changes by adding an appropriately sized 2nd bar and mounting point so that they take the same arc as a traction bar?
Both (in my mind) move the axle forward/back to center as it moves up and down, and therefore the leaf shackle is what determines where bind is due to its rotation ability..how low.. If you started the shackle in the rearmost orientation (around 4 o'clock from the outside) (probably requiring custom length leafs) at full compression, you could get the most droop and you should bind with the bar(s) around 7 o'clock from the outside. But the bind then for a 4 link would be "after the leafs run out of travel" if that condition is firstly correct for a traction bar. In a nutshell I'm working on the principal that a 4 link is two split traction bars to help with other features, but I can't see how bind conditions would be different

 

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking, if you're installing links why would you maintain leafs which are going to limit a link setup? A properly designed 4 link doesn't require a lateral stabilizer or a traction bar, its honestly a very efficient design, trying to make it more efficient isn't likely to happen. A poorly designed 4 link can absolutely bind on itself though

 

OP seemed to be hard set with 4 link and springs.

This project is definitely something I want to see. It'll be something folks talk about for years. It will be unique and one off custom.

I don't get how OP went from a children toy track bar to considering 4 link leaf spring.