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Tundra brake mod and 15" rims

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Tydeorum, Sep 10, 2014.

  1. Sep 11, 2014 at 11:37 AM
    #21
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    Me too. Will you post your price once you price it out.
     
  2. Sep 11, 2014 at 12:08 PM
    #22
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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  3. Sep 11, 2014 at 1:15 PM
    #23
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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  4. Sep 12, 2014 at 11:58 PM
    #24
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    You may also want to make sure your rear brakes are actually doing their job. Lots of times people have braking issues due to poorly proportioned and neglected rear brakes. Remove the drum (or don't and use the "window" on the back) and turn the star wheel until, with the drum installed, there is a slight amount of "drag" on the drum when turning. If your drums are spinning freely right now, that could be a major part of your problem. It's also free to check and adjust and may help you significantly and may stop brake fade some.

    Also, if you are lifted, you need to properly raise the rear brake proportion valve located on the axle upwards equally as high as your truck is lifted. This is easily done using an aluminum flat piece of bracket that can be easily found at Home Depot/Lowe's and by using a couple of nuts and bolts.

    If you're still getting brake fade (I did really badly in this stop and go town with hills, etc) then Tundra brakes may be your only option. If you wanna get some life out of those tires then get the EBC pads and the slotted rotors, but you will be going through your pads faster. Your long term solution as far as cost savings go will still be Tundra brakes since the pads will last a stupidly long time (stick with OEM pads)
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2014
  5. Sep 14, 2014 at 6:27 AM
    #25
    So Many Roads

    So Many Roads Member

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    ^^^This. Make sure your rear brakes are in good shape and properly adjusted. Our rear brakes are self adjusting (if they are not seized up). Put your truck in reverse, get up to about 10 mph and brake pretty hard. Repeat. This will bring the pads closer to the drum and should help a fair amount.
     
  6. Sep 14, 2014 at 8:30 AM
    #26
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Smokin with a smarty.
    The proper way to adjust the Tacoma drums is repeatedly pull and release the E brake handle.
     
  7. Sep 14, 2014 at 10:18 AM
    #27
    68dave

    68dave Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Boss kit & OME leafs, 231mm tundra brakes SCS wheels...
    I agree, run the EBC pads and make sure your rear brakes are adjusted. When it comes time to replace your tires pick up some 16" rims then do the tundra upgrade. I installed the tundra's & steel braided brake hoses on my 4runner a couple years ago and recently my tacoma and love it. I tow either a camper or atv's so the upgrade was a must have for me.

    037.jpg
    038.jpg
    044.jpg
     
  8. Sep 14, 2014 at 11:13 AM
    #28
    MoonCrawler

    MoonCrawler Well-Known Member

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    I ran the tundra brakes on my last truck. It's true, they are night and day difference over the Tacoma brakes.
    But I ran into a problem when I went to buy tires. Most tires currently available that are 31" or over only come in Load Range E, which are 10 ply. (the only exception are Duratracs, available in 265/75/16 C)
    I want C tires for flex and the lighter weight.

    There are also WAY more options in 15's and they're usually cheaper.

    Now I have a new Tacoma with stock 16's. I'm debating dropping them for 15's or keeping them for Tacoma brakes.

    Damned if you do, damned if you don't.
     
  9. Sep 15, 2014 at 2:30 AM
    #29
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    Sometimes that doesn't always work, especially if the e-brake itself needs to be adjusted. Removing the rear wheels and spinning the drum will be an easy way to diagnose. No drag means the rear brakes aren't adjusted correctly. I always pull the e-brake on my truck when parked and both of my drums were spinning freely when I checked them recently, so I adjusted them.
     
  10. Sep 15, 2014 at 10:15 AM
    #30
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    Proper way to adjust your rear brakes is to back up fast and slam on the brakes
     
  11. Sep 15, 2014 at 2:23 PM
    #31
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    The rear shoes are adjusted when you use the parking brake, not backing up and slamming on the brakes.

    You're thinking of Bendix/Wagner system using in American vehicles in which the brake shoes share a single pivot just above the hydraulic wheel cylinder. The adjuster links the other end of the two brake shoes. With that the shoes are effectively anchored at only a single point. The hydraulic cylinder can change the effective diameter of the shoes, but it can't keep it centered in the drum. When you apply the brakes, the lead shoe is dragged along the drum which pushes the trailing shoe against the drum and shifts teh adjuster towards the trailing shoe. When you back up, the leading and trailing shoes are reversed and the shoes will shift the other way when the brakes are applied.

    Toyota used a dual servo setup in which there are no leading or trailing shoe. Each shoe has its own pivot opposite from the wheel cylinder. No matter which direction you stop from the shoes do not shift position. There is no motion inside the braking assembly to operate an adjuster. And as such, the adjuster in a dual servo system is linked to the parking brake. When you pull the parking brake a mechanical lever (automatic adjusting lever) wedges the two shoes apart like the wheel cylinder would. If the brakes are out of adjustment there will be significant movement in this linkage before the shoes reach the drum. This is what moves the adjuster wheel. If the brakes do not need adjusting there is not enough movement in the linkage to turn the adjuster wheel.

    You can drive cross country backwards, but with a dual servo system nothing will change. The only mechanism which moves the automatic adjusting lever is manipulating parking brake over and over.

    Bendix/Wagner:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Dual Servo:

    [​IMG]

    From FSM:

    ScreenHunter_01 Sep. 15 14.58.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2014
  12. Sep 15, 2014 at 2:40 PM
    #32
    68dave

    68dave Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Boss kit & OME leafs, 231mm tundra brakes SCS wheels...
    Every other oil change i rotate my tires so i pull the drums (sometimes pulling the drums off can be a PIA) and adjust them up a couple clicks.
     
  13. Sep 15, 2014 at 9:43 PM
    #33
    Tydeorum

    Tydeorum [OP] Well-Known Member

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    great info guys
     

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