Tundra steering rack upgrade

So if you went the route of welding the new sleeves in place do you think you would not have to do anything with lifting/spacing the motor mounts? Also, if you weld the new sleeves in can you still bolt the factory rack in place in the original spot or do they get eliminated? I would for sure want the steering stops to do their job, how close would you say the stops are at full lock?

 

Great info in this thread, it should be a sticky.

Travis my rack came in yesterday, it's beautiful. Something about new beefy parts that gets me every time.

Had a couple of ideas to brainstorm with all of you, and wanted to get your opinions. I'm going down the rabbit hole this morning of making the rack sit lower in the cradle. Starting with grinding/sanding down the factory bungs flush.

Could you also sand down the bottom side eccentric bushing so that it sits flush in the rack/flush on the frame?
Any potential issues you could think of by doing that?




My next thought was and this is by eye balling only. There is a small section of the rack that sticks out the back, maybe from the machining process. From looking at it and how it sits in the truck, it looks like it would be pointing right at the oil pan. (again eye ball measurements) Wondering if this could be sanded down flush? or if its even worth it.


My last thought has to do with the eccentric bushings. Because of the ability to adjust the hole placement in the bushing within the rack sleeve, by spinning the bushings you could potentially adjust the placement of the rack left to right and front to back, depending on the location of the hole within the bushing. (I hope that makes sense) This would be within the tolerances allowed. So this could give you more clearance front to back. I feel like I'm over thinking this but I had to get it out. Happy Friday guys.

 

Hope you don’t plan on adventures like driving 1,000 miles down into Baja or the like. Sure, this rack is beefier than stock, but it can still fail, and you just eliminated the ability to swap in stock parts that are relatively easily available everywhere.

 

Well lets see. It bolts into the stock location and it uses the stock inner and outer Tie rods. So what exactly are you talking about?

 

Thought you said you ground out the factory mounting bungs

 

Travis mentioned grinding the stock sleeves down flush to get more clearance when I was talking to him one time, I woulda did it but already wrangled the rack in and didnt want to take it back out lol. Even with my motor lifted to the max, it still rubs the dirt off of the rack after a trip so it'd be worth lowering the rack.

 

i wouldnt shave that lip off the bushing...that "hat" helps capture and pinch the rack housing to keep things from floating around...if that fin is a clearance issue theres no issue sanding it flush...just a leftover tang from manufacturing.

 

Thanks for the reply, I will get them down flush.

Appreciate ya getting back to me. Thank you.

 

The stock mounts only need to be ground down if you don't have the clearance between the rack and oil pan...and when I say clearance...its not much.

 

What's your Instagram?

 

@Basikbiker

 

I had this installed on my 2010 Tacoma 4x4; however, the VSC keeps engaging on turns and the zero point calibrations done by the installer haven't solved anything. Am I missing something here?

 

I would find a different level service and redo the VSC calibration. I can be done just shorting out the right pins on the OBD port.

 

Thank you for the input. I'll look into that.

 

The Solo Tundra Rack on my Tacoma is touching the differential. Has anyone had this issue? I'm trying to figure out if this is an installation issue or an issue with the dimensions of the rack.

 

Did you cut out the oem barrels or are you using the cam bushings in the oem location? If the latter, you need to grind down the oem welds and rotate the bushings to push the rack forward. It's the only way to clear the diff.

 

I don't think anything was cut since the product came with cam bushings that are intended to avoid any cutting, as it states on the product website:

"NEW Cam Bushings are provided to allow for an easy install. These bushings keep the factory mounting points on the cross member. No more cutting out the old barrels. We will still provide the stock rubber bushings if you do not want to use the cam bushings."

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/pa...ta-parts/toyota-tacoma-steering-rack-upgrade/

Is it mechanically possibly for the cam bushings to be installed incorrectly by the installer with the holes towards the diff instead of away?

 

Yes. However, I wouldn't say it's incorrect. Just one way puts it closer to the diff

 

I was also just informed by Solo Motorsports of the following:

"The rack has cast ribbing on it that can be sanded before installation for extra clearance."