Turbo 5vz-fe

I am looking into and very close to buying the CXRacing Turbo kit for my truck. I know it says to get and aftermarket fuel system but ive also heard that it should be good up to around 220whp. I will soon after be buying one but I will be running stock fuel system for alittle. My question is if there is anything I should look out for when buying this or when I install it. Another thing is what boost gauge should I get and how do I hook one up. I going to be honest and say I dont really know much and I just want some pointers for when I buy this kit.

 

I know nothing about your vehicle or your knowledge. But, if you want to do it, I say do it. You will need a boost controller (electronic boost controller) to control the boost and keep it low and from spiking. From my experience, This will not be a plug and play scenario. You might get it to run but will absolutely need to tune it to get it to run well.

I disagree with taking it to a shop to have them do it. You need to learn how to do this and troubleshoot if you really want this.

 

Research find and read as much as you can on turbo chargers.

Just which kit were you looking at ? Planning on the inner Cooler or not??

This is never going to see Highway use or you have no emission tests.

Just be aware you might have problems tuning on the stock fuel system.

Not something I would rush into Just what are your strong Mechanical skill areas ??

How long do you plan to take doing this project ?? Have a nice area to work in?

Have friends that can help when your stuck??

While it is good to have an excellent working knowledge of your Project . I really agree on Critter on this .

Find skilled help if your over your head before you start.

Nothing worse then a project unfinished and sold for Scrap price down the road.

Best of Luck!!

 

Don’t forget AFR Guage

 

You seem like a young buckaroo. Don’t you have any friends who know shit and can help you out?

Turbo setups are a huge pain in the ass, kit or not. The boost gauge shouldn’t even be on your radar.

Put a fuel pump in which you will need anyway and see how you like getting beat up. If it’s easy then you are prob good. If not, maybe reconsider a turbo.

 

I was going to swap a 7MGTE in my 86 4x4 Pick up in fact I have all the goodies but the exhaust.

I got a real good deal on a low mileage 3.4 decided to go that route and forgo the turbo headache for now

 

Wow you are so helpful thanks for contributing nothing to this thread

 

I am looking at the cxracing kit with intercooler, I do plan you run it on the street and hopefully not get pulled over. I have alot of people that can help me and I have a VERY good work space. I am hoping I can get it done in a weekend. I have been doing as much research as I can. I have talked to alot of people about this and I will have professional help when doing the install.

 

What part of the exhaust you need? I've got a 3" Invidia from my Supra that's taking up space in the garage.

OP - your install can be as simple or as complicated as you want. Here are some pointers:

Set yourself a power goal and work to that. The CX intercoolers and most Chinese ICs are complete garbage but will work up to a certain point. If you're serious about it, get something better.

Monitoring your engine is going to be critical if you want it to last. Since you're pushing the stock electronics to deal with more air, it'll be adding more fuel to compensate but the stock maps and tunes have limits. At the very least you should get a wideband A/F ratio gauge before you get a boost gauge. AEM's UEGO works great and that's what I'd recommend, but any wideband will work for you. This will tell you if your stock fuel system is keeping up with the forced induction demands. Make sure you don't lean out under boost. If so, you'll need to account for any of the following: bigger fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, larger injectors.

Any boost gauge will work for you. Go for a quality mechanical boost gauge for simplicity, and tee it into any vacuum line on your intake manifold. Since it's seeing low levels of boost, make sure you get your gauge range right for accurate readings. I think I've got an Autometer that I first used with my turbo swap before I went AEM.

The wastegate looks like it's set with an 8 psi spring so you won't need any kind of mechanical or electronic boost controller unless you want to go above 8 pounds. I wouldn't since you're asking the basic questions right now - after installing and getting a feel for it reassess.

You'll probably be close to hitting fuel cut at WOT with the stock air metering setup.

You'll probably need to recirculate the blow-off valve or you'll run rich and stumble every time you let off the gas.

The wastegate looks like it dumps to atmosphere so it'll be pretty loud when it opens.

 

This is the most helpful response Ive gotten and I thank you for that. I do plan to get a A/F ratio gauge. I will be helped by professionals when installing this. If in the future I get a new fuel system and I want to add more boost, what wastegate would I be looking for? I plan to push as much power outta the stock fuelsystem. Ive heard you can get the same whp as cc your injecters are. How true is that. Thanks for your help

 

YouTube has the cure for this

 

You're absolutely going to need some form of aftermarket fuel and ignition control. These trucks natively do not understand positive manifold pressure and will not increase fuel enough to deal with much beyond ~2psi safely. They want to remain stoich and you need to be rich under boost.

 

I swapped a 7MGTE into an original 7MGE Supra, keeping the stock fuel pump for a while. The GTE was supposed to make about 6psi stock, but I was seeing 8-9 pounds by the time the wastegate was open and bypassing the turbine. I attributed this to a 3" widemouth downpipe and 3" exhaust all the way back. It was very easy to pull more air than the 7MGE air flow meter expected to see when I was at WOT and would hit fuel cut. I then added the AFM housing from a 1UZ which admitted more unmetered air and got around that problem.

Watching AFRs I could see I was getting high 13s almost to 14s when I would start building boost - this was on the stock GE fuel pump feeding 440cc injectors and starting to starve them. I swapped a standard Denso pump from the Mk4 Supra and reworked some wiring to get a lot more fuel flow, but then had to add an Aeromotive FPR to turn my pressure down and get my AFRs up from 9-10s back to 12 after the additional fuel system work. I've got a set of 550cc injectors that never went in since I'm not getting close to leaning out yet. There's no real rule of thumb for injector sizes - you need to find the sweet spot between providing too little fuel and too much. Point of all this is a small change on one part of the system can have big effects downstream.

As for the wastegate - you'll probably keep the CXRacing wastegate if it's serviceable. It's fairly simple - once it sees a predetermined amount of boost via spring pressure or a vacuum/air line on a diaphragm, it'll open a bypass and not let the turbine build any more speed. This is where either shimming the wastegate spring to provide more preload (opening later) or controlling via a manual boost controller (physically restricting airflow to the WG) or an electronic boost controller (solenoid to electrically control how much pressure the WG sees) comes in. Again, if you make it this far you've done everything else right with the install and initial tune and now have a well-behaved, driveable truck. Again, pick a power goal and build to that goal. You can use the boost controller to build as much boost as physically possible, but your turbine/compressor combo will fall off of its efficiency island and just be heating up air instead of providing more usable boost. The highest I've seen on my CT26 is 16-17 psi but the real limit is 12-13, it becomes more and more inefficient the further you get from that. Contact CX for a compressor map for your those turbo specs and that'll show you where the turbo is most efficient. I looked and couldn't find one anywhere on their website.

 

CX kit is about 2/3 what you need and overpriced imo, especially given that their ancillaries and turbo itself are eBay/Chinese quality.
Also this will not be a weekend job, and I've heard of the CX kits needing modifications to fit in certain instances.

 

@Tyler Sexton did you ever go through with this turbo install? I have the CX Racing manifolds, crossover pipe, downpipe, and midpipe installed. I pieced together the rest. Deatschwerks 255lph fuel pump, 7MGE 315cc "lime green" injectors. I did have to modify the CX kit some, the fitment isn't the greatest. The worst condition was the vband flanges of the crossover pipe not lining up exactly with the manifolds. This was solved by buying a longer flex-pipe that had twice as much tubing as the stock CX flex-pipe. Some material of the crossover pipe was removed in order to accommodate the longer flex-pipe, and maintain the same geometry. There's a great Facebook group called Turbo 5vz that has tons of great information.