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Turning makes slight click/thumping noise

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by sloppyjoe, Sep 1, 2010.

  1. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:17 AM
    #1
    sloppyjoe

    sloppyjoe [OP] They are more like guide lines.

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    O.K. Here is what I know so far. I have a 2008 Tacoma 4door TRD Sport 4x4 long bed. I just made a trip to Indiana, so this may have sent whatever is failing over the limit or maybe it just happenstance. Just today the truck has developed a small but noticeable thud/click/tink noise when turning, it only does it when turning and it seems to do it more if you are turning to the left. I think it is probably a wheel bearing or a CV shaft/joint, the issues is I have no clue what it could be as I am totally new to independent suspension and Toyotas. I am very comfortable doing the work just not diagnosing. If this sounds like something you can help me with please give me your ideas and I will try them out. Is there a way to check to see if it is a wheel bearing or CV?? I tried the old rock the wheel back and fourth to see if it has too much play (ie wheel bearing check) but I am not sure how to examine the CV shaft/joint to see if that is the issue. whatever the case I will be doing something to fix it soon so any help is welcome. Thanks!! JOE>
     
  2. Sep 1, 2010 at 11:54 AM
    #2
    sloppyjoe

    sloppyjoe [OP] They are more like guide lines.

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    Also I would like to know if I can remove the trouble shaft and still drive with out any issues ( I know the 4x4 will not function right but) is it possible to do until I get the $450 to get a new one. Thanks again for any and all help. JOE>
     
  3. Sep 2, 2010 at 6:19 AM
    #3
    sloppyjoe

    sloppyjoe [OP] They are more like guide lines.

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    Morning bump.... JOE>

    I also spoke to a good friend of mine who has owned a 4x4 shop for 40 years or so, and he said that this is normal (well normal issues for independent) that has been run hot. I checked the fluid last night and it was a quart low, I knew I should have checked it when I got this truck!! What a piss this is, I have traded in a wonderfully working top shelf maintained Jeep for a truck that has had a dry front diff for ?? who knows how long. Its like someone got the truck and figured hell this is a toyota I heard they dont need anything done to them EVER. not so it seems. Sorry for the rant it is a real bummer to get rid of something you know is a great vehicle for something that turns out to be a huge disappointment. JOE>
     
  4. Nov 1, 2011 at 8:02 AM
    #4
    jdtoothnail

    jdtoothnail Member

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    Joey
    Wapato, WA
    Vehicle:
    05 TRD Sport DC 4x4 w/ 3" Toytec Lift
    3" Toytec/Eibach Coilover lift w/ 5100s in front, Toytec rear BOSS shocks, Light Racing UCAs, OME Dakar Rear Leaf Packs w/ rear axle degree shims, Toyo Open Country A/T II LT285/75R16 (33"), Gear Alloy 712MB Injectors (Machined Black & Chrome wheels), Airaid Cool Air Intake System, TRD Exhaust, Black Head Light Mod, GrillCraft Black Mesh Upper & Lower Grill, Removed Mudflaps, Jensen VM9324 DVD player (secret e-brake override code on all Jensens) w/ Streaming Bluetooth Adapter, Steering Wheel Adapter & Rear Back-up Camera... ALL done by me, thanks to all the info here on TW. If I can do it, you can DEFINITELY do it!
    Did you ever figure this out? I'm curious. I have a 3" lifted 4x4 DC Short Bed and I have the same sound when I turn.
     
  5. Nov 1, 2011 at 8:10 AM
    #5
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Ben
    Not Beech Creek
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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Lift the front so both tires are off the ground. Spin each tire by hand. It should feel smooth (you may feel some resistance form the brake pads though). Next try grabbing each tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. Push on one side and you pull on the other. The wheel should not budge. Do it again with you hands on the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If you have any movement (other than rotational) you have a bad wheel bearing.
     
  6. Nov 22, 2011 at 7:58 PM
    #6
    jdtoothnail

    jdtoothnail Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    First Name:
    Joey
    Wapato, WA
    Vehicle:
    05 TRD Sport DC 4x4 w/ 3" Toytec Lift
    3" Toytec/Eibach Coilover lift w/ 5100s in front, Toytec rear BOSS shocks, Light Racing UCAs, OME Dakar Rear Leaf Packs w/ rear axle degree shims, Toyo Open Country A/T II LT285/75R16 (33"), Gear Alloy 712MB Injectors (Machined Black & Chrome wheels), Airaid Cool Air Intake System, TRD Exhaust, Black Head Light Mod, GrillCraft Black Mesh Upper & Lower Grill, Removed Mudflaps, Jensen VM9324 DVD player (secret e-brake override code on all Jensens) w/ Streaming Bluetooth Adapter, Steering Wheel Adapter & Rear Back-up Camera... ALL done by me, thanks to all the info here on TW. If I can do it, you can DEFINITELY do it!
    Thanks Ben. Did as you said: turns out Firestone forgot to tighten my passenger side lower control arm post-alignment (may partially explain why my steering wheel was so crooked when driving straight), so no more creaking. Phew!

    Anyway, got the lifetime alignment, told them Camber 0, Toe-In 0.04, and Caster to factory. They likely forgot to retighten because they were busy trying to fix the connection to the printer. I had it realigned last week -- 4 weeks after the initial one and 2 weeks after I tightened everything up -- and Toe-In seemed pretty far out of spec (LF 0.59, RF 0.57).
     
  7. Nov 22, 2011 at 8:04 PM
    #7
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    A-TRUCK, Fat Kid in the Bed, Custom Pinstriping, Ported and Polished Muffler Bearing, Hi-Performance Bed Mat
    I have more than once developed front-end clunk after having the truck aligned and then taking it wheeling; my theory is that either:

    a) Alignment guys suck at re-torquing the bolts that hold the alignment cams in place

    or

    b) The torque spec for these bolts is too damn low.

    In any event, both times torquing the bolts holding the alignment cams in place in the LCA to 75+ ft.lb. has fixed the issue.
     

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