TYetti's 2.7L Rebuild/FULL SEND/EAF build

LCE header is probably my next mod. Interested to hear your take on it

 

Lots of weld splatter on the tubes near the collector. Honestly for what they charge I was expecting a little more finish to it. At the same time my truck is all function and little form so as long as it performs when it goes on the new engine thats all that really matters. The metal gasket that comes with it is a very nice touch though

 

Also super exciting just heard back from LCE that they offer a set of street/comp pistons for the 2trfe, with hastings rings. They also have a set of gapless rings still waiting to hear if they offer this for the 2tr as well but if they do I'll be ordering a set just for that piece of mind aspect, I'm less than trusting of OEM Toyota rings at the moment

 

Seems like Im paying for LC Engineering's Christmas party this year lol...

Ordered the next items on my list
LC Engineering pro clutch kit
https://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-Clutch-Kit-2TR-2-7-LITER-2005-2017-10-p/1053084.htm

Core/Hurst extended short throw shifter with new shifter cup

https://core-shifters.com/products/...55f-5-speed-4-cyl-truck?variant=2395908374549

 

The parts pile grows

LC Engineering Pro clutch kit
https://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-Clutch-Kit-2TR-2-7-LITER-2005-2017-10-p/1053084.htm

 

Oh man you are getting everything i'd like to put in my truck lol Can't wait to see results

 

But wait there's more.. lol

 

I am not even surprised

 

Shockingly my shifter didn't show up before the clutch did. For once ups is faster than USPS really weird. I'm still researching pistons and rings. And waiting for news on the Marlin crawler steering rack

 

You were still on the OEM clutch right? And whats the purpose of that steering rack? more strenght? and now that you are looking at pistons and rings that means you rebuild the engine or still looking for a replacement?

 

Yes I'm still on the original clutch at 276k km, yes the Marlin rack if it lives up to the hype which I'm sure it will should be at least double the strength of OEM. Internally and on the tie rods. No Im not swapping I'm sticking with the devil I know and just doing a full rebuild

 

Great I am still on original clutch at 267k km, im still good for a while since I dont abuse it like you do lol
Does the rebuild involve an oversize or its not enough to talk about?

 

I won't know about oversize pistons till I send the block out. We'll have to see if the block is still in spec... I'm still discussing the pistons thing with a couple engine builders. My concern is that there's a flaw with yotoTo piston and rings and that's why we are seeing so many 2.7s fail. I'm still searching to see if they made any changes in 2015 when they added dual vvti to the engines, if the pistons are different it would confirm my suspicions that the oil ring failure is known

 

Curious why you did not choose the doug thorley headers for the 2.7? I'm often in this debate myself, LCE, or DT...

you are going to like this clutch, I just swapped this into my truck in the summer. Took a good 2500 km's before I felt it was truly broken in.

Also, bummer about your rings. I have 400k on my 2.7, but it was all highway before I got it

Subbed for outcome, you seem to be doing things I'd like to do, and the cnd factor helps

 

There's a header comparison in the 4cyl section, but also the equal length tubes are better for low end torque which rolling on 35s I need. Well that's good to know about the clutch, did you use the OEM flywheel or swap to an aftermarket one? The engine will need some break in as well so they should both be ready around the same time. This seems to be the way with the 2.7 some go forever but more and more I see them with blown rings misdiagnosed as something else.

 

now you have me wondering about a plugged cat, no smoke to speak of, but I know its not the full amount that I put in during an oil change. I get about 13.5L/100 mix of city/hihgway, and about 12 when hauling the camper on trips. @TacoMitch93 has the headers with an aftermarket exhaust, sounds nice. you should take a before/after of the sound. I'm thinking of a full exhaust replacement in the future and I'm very interested in the Magnaflow you chose ( combined with the LCE header )

I too saw that old thread with dyno results in it, LCE came out a winner, no doubt. I was just wondering if you had any other reason ( besides giving all your money to LCE this Christmas )

For the clutch, she was done in my driveway with a friends help. We re-used the factory flywheel, just had it re-surfaced at a local Machine shop. Pics of the hotspots can be found here.

its a nice kit, I bought the flywheel bolts from them too, If you ( or anyone else reading this ) did not know, the flywheel uses 14mm 12point bolts. That was a nice surprise since we had to run around to find one

honestly it was straight forward with the removal and re-install. for install, a motorcycle jack was pretty handy. We used a sheet of plywood with a hold drilld in it to clear the bushing on the bottom of the tranny, and a 2x4 towards the front to keep it balanced/ nose up to help with the install.

sorry if you know this already but you'll need some pretty damn long extensions to reach the top bell housing bolts. The ones we used were longer then the whole tranny.

1) removed Starter from engine
2) removed slave cyl from tranny
3) removed the breather tubes and wiring harness ( tucked out of the way )
4) removed D-shaft from t-case
5) removed Tranny X-member
6) removed the one bolt that holds the exhaust to the tranny
7) used the jack to lower the rear of the tranny forcing the engine to tilt down just enough so we could get the top bolts off using the massive extenders and a breaker bar.
8) leveled out the tranny and removed the rest of the bolts.
9) removed tranny by wiggling and sliding it backwards
10) do other stuff.... lol

for the install, we got the tranny back into place ( be mindfull of that damn breather tube that's barely longer then the tranny, this one sits right on top of the bell housing. First go round I pinched it between the block and bell housing, was a real PITA to remove without removing the tranny again. ) then we did some side bolts, and bottom bolts snug, and tilted the tranny down so we could install and torque the top, Everything else after that is cake.

hopefully your experience is different,but my first push of the clutch, it just sank to the floor( normal since I had pushed the slave piston all the way back), had to pull it back up with my hand, then the 2nd push it became really stiff ( thinking this was just how "stiff" the new clutch might be ) I put a little extra oomf into my leg. Something popped and the clutch seemed to work normal. Not sure what that was, but its never happened again, and does not seem to affect anything ( been about 5,000k since ). I did have to adjust the clutch pedal shaft thingie the one right under the pedal. My grab point felt like it was 5mm from the floor and really hard to drive smoothly. a turn or two of the shaft fixed that right up. Don't turn too much, a little goes a long way.

really like the clutch, way better "snap" if you let go quickly, but easily controlled for start/stop/hill stuff.

 

You should be getting better milage than that I get 20mpg loaded on 35s lol... My cat is plugged, plugged with oil, my fuel milage has dropped significantly but the truck is now in storage. Anytime you can have enqual length header tubes go for it , its much more beneficial than uneven tubes. See I'm cheating I'm just taking the whole engine and transmission out as one lol

 

Man I love this build thread.