Tyler Lacasse's Supercharged 3RZ Dual Cased Fully Locked Long Travel Crawler Build

Anyone interested? DM me an offer for local pickup.

 

Yuurrrp. Still waiting on the King fronts...

Pic before I mounted the bed on the 1" spacers.

 

Im also waiting on the king fronts lol

 

Better order them now and with their build time ya might get them by next year if you're lucky

 

So-- unfortunately I didn't take any "before" measurements. However, by eye as well as getting in the truck (with the front lifted to how it'll sit, kind of) it feels a little lower which is what I was going for. So that was definitely a win. There is still more weight to be added like the shell and the swing out, but there is still WAY more arch left in the springs for compression/up-travel which is really exciting.

I droop tested it and....sheesh. She just goes up and up and up! She's gonna be one flexy noodle in the back.

There was an interesting observation I made is when I had the Dakar on one side and the Expo pack on the other while jacking the truck up from the middle of the differential. Every subtle pump the Expo pack would jump up and spring back as apposed to the Dakar pack, which would just kind of lift and stay there. I know this isn't weight balance, because once both Expo packs were on they both did the same thing. I am excited because that'll mean they'll be a LOT more supple feeling in the chatter stuff off road.

As for the heat crack in my rear bumper- 4xInnovations claims they "now" reinforce bumpers with tire carriers and that they will send a call tag and weld the repair and send it back. I am really not too thrilled by this.


That being said- Both Dakar Packs are up for sale local pickup if anyone is interested in them.

 

Bit random- but does anyone have any experience with pre-built 3RZ motors? I am not sure if LC Engineering sales complete crate motors or not that are MILDLY built...as in relatively smog legal-ish on the outside but stronger internals and can still run fine off the stock ECU.

Given the fact that my motor has 225K on it, I am looking to get a completely rebuilt motor that I can thrash pretty hard in the 3000 rpm and up range and feel good about it. Not expecting it to last 225K miles, but something reliable that can deal with that kind of running reliably.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

Something kind of like this that is fully built, but with upgraded internals, balance shaft delete, you know...that kind of stuff. Not really looking into a wild head setup or anything crazy, but just the basics.

 

Just drop the pan, cut the balance shaft chain out and call it a day. The stock ECU won’t support enough power to hurt the bottom end. The biggest weak point in the motor is the balance shaft bearing oiling system...once it’s gone, you’re as set as you can be for a stock ECU 3RZ. Play with your oil level to make sure the sump is full enough on angles too.

-I’ve trashed two sets of balance shaft bearings in my crawler in the last 5 years from lack of oil on angles. I run a rear sump pan but 1.5 qts over full (7qts total) seems to be the ticket. No loss of oil pressure at high RPM from aeration and less loss of pressure on angles at low speed when the pickup comes uncovered.

 

Man, this is absolutely golden information right here. Thank you for sharing this, especially about the oil level too.

I really do want to at least freshen the motor up a bit more- so I will pull the motor (eventually) and run through with a hone and drop some new pistons in, cut out the balance shaft, lap the valves, good head studs, swap out all the seals and call it a day.

I know anyone can go on and on with getting the crank and cam journals in spec, new this new that, it is literally endless and I have to draw the line somewhere before the point of building a completely brand new engine. I feel good about the overall condition of my motor, so I feel the above stated is a good trade-off as I have already done a new water pump within the past year or so too if I recall.

What are your thoughts?

 

I wouldn’t bother unless it gives you a reason that it needs to be pulled. A machine shop is unlikely to be as good as Toyota from the factory and there are a ton of horror stories of misshapen bores, incorrect deck heights, etc being done by machine shops on rebuilds. Aftermarket parts aren’t going to be as good as OEM either.

If I were in your shoes and not running big boost, I’d check the valve lash and run a compression test or leakdown if you really want. The only think you have to worry about in the head is the exhaust seats getting beaten deeper in the head, taking up your existing valve lash until it goes into preload, doesn’t allow the valve to close and then burns the valve and cracks the head from all the extra heat. Staying on top of your valve lash makes this a non-issue.

I’d also leave the balance shafts in the block. You have to pull the front cover to get them out, which means the head has to come off too. There are some issues with high oil pressure when people run the LC delete too.

 

Weeeelllllll.... @Titus94 answered thay question

 

YES!!!!!!! DSM just sent me a very nice email to double checking that I want the shocks still despite everything going on (recognizing that I ordered just before all the COVID 19 stuff hit). I was like heeeeeck yeah send 'em my way!

 

Nice! Just like @titus_and_tacos I was sent the wrong shocks! Wonderful!

 

Whooooops!

 

What exactly was wrong about them

 

The 1" rod end was a dead giveaway as stated by the tag. I'm going to confirm these are for sure wrong tomorrow with DSM, but I'm pretty sure these are wrong. Very similar. Not too sure if the top hat is supposed to come with it to bolt to my coil bucket. These didn't have it if that's the case.

 

Does that seem right to you guys? Could the "1" longer rod" mean they're the standard rod and 2" longer rod" would be the +1 rod end???

I thought there's a top cap that is supposed to come with these too, which is why this is throwing me all off.

 

I keep spamming my own thread here- but another look at it looks like a start/order received date on the spec tag and then a finished date. I had not placed my order until at least sometime in mid March. Not even thought about at 02/07/2020 listed on the tag. UNLESS that was magically from the guy that backed out of the LT kit MCM Fab built and had those same shocks were requested from King... But I doubt it.

 

How’s the rear coming along?


Looks like you’ve been workin on your boat on IG

 

So apparently those are the right shocks, but I thought they came with a top hat. DSM said I need to get with Matt to figure out what I need for my application...of course Matt at MCM Fab proooobably won't call me back so I'll shoot him an email tomorrow.

I am awaiting to stick the coils under the front so I can see how much I want to try shaving down the rear spring perches depending on how much stink bug is going on in the back.

Boat has been getting a lot of love lately and ready to rip! Just need a truck in one piece to pull it lol. Everyone is offering to let me use their truck to pull my boat so I can take them to the lake ahahahahah!!! It cracks me up.