Tyler Lacasse's Supercharged 3RZ Dual Cased Fully Locked Long Travel Crawler Build

What's going on, is it time for 40s yet

 

Sooo talked to Matt. He said because he exclusively deals with ADS, he's not too sure on the exact King specs. That being said, he said from the top hat to the eyelet is like 1/2 an inch.

Doesn't @Blackdawg have an MCM LT setup with ADS up front? Or anyone else with a Tacoma first gen possible able to supply a pic of what their ADS top hat looks like?

Greatly appreciated if you could!!

 

I legit thought about 38s or 39s, but at the end of the day for good drivability on road and handling offroad I think hands down for my use 37X12.50X17 is the golden ticket for me!

 

I do and just removed my shocks. Give me a sec I'll get a photos.

What are you trying to do? Run Kings with Matt's kit? Why?


Also just from a glance of the first post, don't do manual hubs. Unless you want to change broken CVs all the time.

 

I'd say 1/2 is pretty close.

 

Damn 37s, I’m jealous. With all this free time from the virus I want to spend time modding then truck, but no funds soooo guess I’ll just ride passenger with you and everyone else on the harder trails

 

Man, with all of this expense, go SAC.
I'm glad I did and eliminated all of this headache.

 

Love your step side by the way

 

Thank you, Monte! That is a huge help.

Yeah- I am hearing a lot of negative feedback on the manual hub strength. That'll probably the first thing to change before I even go through the trouble of knocking the ends off Tundra axles and adapting them.

Why King? No heavy weighing reason. ADS prices went up a good amount right before I bought the kit and it meant more to me to save $400 and have Kings than to have ADS. I know they're killer shocks though!

 

I hear you on that man. I was really torn on that. It would especially make sense with the dual cases. I know especially on these lighter trucks it is easier to use lighter weight axles that are still wrong enough but nimble and run decent at speed with good shock tuning. Not that a 3rz Tacoma will ever be mobbing that fast, but I have always been an IFS person at heart which is why my build went this direction.

 

So what’s up with manual hubs and LT? CVs just aren’t as strong?

 

Tundra CVs are hella strong. Stronger than the ADD stock ones due to their design.

Manual hubs aren't in general compared to the stock ADD CVs. They have a lower outer spline count, the shafts themselves is also a bit narrower. So you'll see guys blow the outer joints a lot with Manual CVs that have big tires or crawlboxes or front lockers.

The Tundra ADD axles are great. Probably blow the diff first than the CV.

 

Or you just save up and get RCV's. Then you will absolutely blow the intermediate shaft and add housing apart before the CV snaps. I've seen it. lol

 

I mean I blew my diff going 45ish mph and caught a little air, landed, explosion, CV's were fine.

I don't see the point of the RCV's with our tiny 7.5'' front diff. The tundra CVs are plenty beef. Would love it if an 8'' could fit under there from 2nd gens. I've looked and the mounting is the same, but its 1.5'' wider per side or so.

 

care to sell the fender flares?

trying to help you with this project lol

 

My rigs not long travel and it's a 3rd gen 4runner. 35's, dual locked, crawl box, and Nitro 5.29's. It's not a go fast rig unless I need it to so 90% of my wheeling is big rocks. After blowing and trail swapping my 11th CV in 18 months I ponied up for RCV's. I haven't changed a CV or had any diff or ADD issues in 19 months. lol

 

Were you manual hubs?

 

Nope. ADD.

 

Gotcha. I'd attribute that to that monster torque multiplier of a crawl box...and being on 35s. Would have been a lot worse with manual hubs. Silas with 35s broke 7 in one trip I think to Moab haha

 

End up getting different coilovers or finding bucket adapters? Camburg has some - I bought some a couple years ago for $65 at the shop. Solo and TC make them but want $100+.