U-joint clip

Ozman thinks Workman meant Youtard

 

Am I the only one who noticed this? Not knowing the right way is one thing, but this?

 

User maxamillion2345 noticed but didn't read too into it.

 

I'm actually eating popcorn right now.

 

If someone was hammering on the driveshaft, I'd be concerned about damage to other parts of the driveline.

 

When I said "I", I meant I took my truck to the shop to change the u-joint. Also when I said "I" changed the whole shaft I meant I took it to a shop and they changed the whole shaft. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Gotcha! Did the first shop pay for their damage yet?

 

Why did you change the U-joints in the first place? Or how did you know it was bad?

I think mine might be going bad but the toyota dealer said you haveto change the whole shaft and can't do just the u-joints.

 

Your clips are bent (from pic i saw) you can straighten them out enough to properly seat them in the groove (it wont be much tho' its spring steel)

 

This is false! 100% BS, you even have the option of going to the greasable style like the 4x trucks use, but then you do have to grease them regularly.

The most common driving symptoms of a failed u-joint is a click or "ting" noise when going from deccell to accell, a cricket like chirping most likely at low speeds on accelleration, or high speed vibration.

To check, put the transmission in neutral with the park brake applied, and the wheels chocked. Crawl under the truck, and firmly shake the shaft both up and down and side to side. Watch for any movement in the joints when doing this. Note that it is normal to have some movement of the center bearing in the rubber mount when doing this. Then, with a small bar or by hand, try to rotate the shafts against each other, and again watch for any movement in the joint. Any visible movement is reason to replace.

If all the above passes, carefully inspect around each bearing cup seal for rust streaks coming out of the joint which indicates a dry cup, and again the joint should be replaced if this is found.

 

Thanks landphil.
Dealer must have seen the out of town area code from my cell phone on caller ID and thought "I hope it's a tourist stuck on the road willing to take whatever we offer $$$$$$$".

Since the carrier bearing is under $30 and you have to remove the u-joint to get to it anyway, is it worth the extra time to just go ahead and change it while I'm under there? (~105000 miles on truck) It's got some play to it but not sure if it's "excessive".

I just looked again and noticed that on 2 of the 3 u-joints, a few of the plastic rings are cracked and covered in a layer of grime so no doubt some of that grime has made its way inside.

 

Under $30 for the center bearing? Where? I'm under the impression of $200+, but if you can get a decent quality one for that price, yeah, I'd do it and all 3 u joints in one shot.

 

Where... are you finding carrier bearings for $30 ?? Mine was just over $200

 

He must have the wrong part writen down! Cause i have doen them twice and the cost $199.00 both times

 

pillow block bearing maybe?

 

Don't use the OEM sealed u-joints, you can use

$28 Spicer 5-213X U-Joint Kit 1330 Series (OSR)

Spicer 5-213X u-joints. These are same as OEM but they are greasable and cost only $20 vs $60 for OEM which is just a Toyota packaged Spicer u-joint. If you want to stick with the sealed OEM u-joint then don't get it from the dealer, the OEM non-greasable u-joint is a

$25 Spicer 5-1330X U-Joint Kit 1330/SPL25 Series (OSR)

Spicer 5-1330X u-joint, cost $20. I also have to agree with the other guys on the price of the carrier bearing being around $200.

 

Just got the payment last week.

 

Yep, I refuse to use non greaseable or Perma seal type bearings or U joints, just like any other "non serviceable" part they dry out & fail after awhile..... Why ?? 'cause ya can't keep them lubed

 

Carrier bearing might be the wrong name. I'm talking about the one that looks like a pillowblock bearing in the middle of the drive shaft. It looked like different sources used different names for the same part (carrier bearing, pillowblock bearing, shaft bearing, differential bearing, ...). By their pictures though, it's what I was looking for.

I was under the impression that you remove the metal band and rubber boot then it would just be a standard bearing race pressed on the shaft. Replace that and then reuse the rubber boot and metal band. All of the catalogs show 2 different sizes though with prices $9-29 each and I'm not sure which if any is even the correct part. I'll find out next week when I work on it. Driving the wife's highlander until then.

These are the same ones I saw in other catalogs.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...niraZ6o3ap?itemIdentifier=788422_0_6534_29008

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-jniraZ6o3ap?itemIdentifier=228581_0_0_4033


For the u-joints, I'm thinking the PRECISION/MOOG Part # 270 "greasable super-strength" for $14.33 each from rockauto.com.