U-joint exploding cup and marred yoke

What do I do with this? I’m changing my u-joints, (thanks @Timmah! for your helpful video) and the cups on the yoke literally explode off (into pieces) when pressed out. Inside the hole you see this deformity. Is this ruined? Or what’s the best way to fix this so I can install my new u-joint?

 

If there are no cracks, you may get away with grinding down the material. If want a new yoke:
https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/driveshaft/end-yokes/

 

Ooof, I don't know that I would trust it.

Is there a driveline shop nearby you can take it to?

 

Hard to tell from the pics how badly it is deformed but if you install the joint it will be pretty obvious if it is going to work or not.

 

Thanks for that source.

I don’t know yet. Machine shops around here ain’t takin small work right now.

so it’s just that one long burr. I don’t even know how it happened. The truck is new to me and I have no reason to believe these were replaced before.

I’m just wanting to know is are the tolerances on here so precise that I shouldn’t try sanding it down smooth by hand. Is this my new excuse to buy a dremel? If this can be DIY’d I just don’t know the right technique and looking for some pointers.

 

I would install the joint and see how it feels and go from there. Avoid the Dremel. They call those the "gunsmiths friend" and not 'cus they are used by gunsmiths but lots of people use them then need real help

If the joint moves smooth and the clips lock in I would just run it.

ETA: A bit of fine sanding is pretty normal to clean up the surfaces. The bearing surfaces are in the joint so the cups just need a nice snug fit.

 

You can just file that bur off no problem, that shiny(ish) part inside the yoke is were the cap actually rides, the bur is outside that area.

 

Just file down the ridge and install the new joints.
Seen this many times, perfectly normal.

 

These Yokes are tapered and a real pain to hold square when pressing joints out.

If I did more Drive Shaft work I would build a fixture .I just take them to my drive shaft shop they do the job cheaper then I can get the parts.

 

Wow blame a tool for the users mistakes .

I don`t know any Gun Smith the does not have and use several Dermal tools

Like Grinders you can never have to many.

 

$83 OEMTOOLS 24539 U Joint Press and Removal Tool for Class 1-3 Trucks, Cars, & Equipment, Fits Bearing Cup 1" to 1.25", Impact Wrench Compatible

Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 24539 Automotive U Joint Puller, U Joint Tool Works On Most Passenger Vehicles and Light Duty Trucks, Easy-to-Use U Joint Puller, Green : Automotive



What a major pain in the ass solver......
With an impact driver it makes quick easy work of these.

 

Aww yiss, this is all reassuring. Thanks all for the feedback.

 

Why did I not find this before? I used a 2 arm puller almost identical to the one used in Timmy’s video. It worked with an impact wrench and long handled breaker bar. The cup popped out like the dudes in the demo video. This tool here def looks easier to use. I might go ahead and get one since I plan on changing all 6, should make it easier. Thanks.