U joints tools

Hey all, is there a specific tool used with a hammer to knock out ujoints for 1st gens?

What do y'all typically use?

 

Balljoint c press things work good

 

This with an impact drill to drive it makes easy work of these....
and fast.....

Dont forget to get a paint marker and mark whole drive line so it goes back exactly same orientation......

$81 OEMTOOLS 24539 Automotive U Joint Puller, U Joint Removal Tools, U Joint Tool Works On Most Passenger Vehicles and Light Duty Trucks, Easy-to-Use U Joint Puller

Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 24539 Automotive U Joint Puller, U Joint Removal Tools, U Joint Tool Works On Most Passenger Vehicles and Light Duty Trucks, Easy-to-Use U Joint Puller : Automotive

 

A hammer and the right size socket if you don't want to buy any tools. You can find some utube vudeis on this. Personally, I use a C clamp and cups from a BJ kit.

 

There is a video from Tom Woods where he does everything with a hammer and he does it fast. I doubt I would ever have such luck.

 

Yep, not so easy as it appears/sounds! I marred the hell out of one when trying to use the OTC Front End Svc Kit as well as a Powerbuilt U Joint C Press.

That little tool mentioned earlier from OEMTools definitely makes it easier. I used a Dremel to remove any burs from pressing out the bearing cups and cleaned up the surface prior to installing. Also the C press from OEMTools makes install much easier. Once the spider bearing is in and the snap rings are in place, if the spider/trunnion has resistance when rotating some taps with a socket on each side will smooth it out.

I thought I had screwed up big time but after a bit of trial and error the job is done.

$73 OEMTOOLS 24549 Automotive Bearing Cup Installer, Bearing Clamp, Medium and Light Duty U Joint Installer, Drive Shaft Tool, Impact Rated Steel C Clamp with Magnets

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CHN44FL

 

Hammer, old appropriate sized socket, block of oak with a hole drilled in it, Kroil, torch if it's really in there good.

 

Just something to be aware of- the yokes are tapered. The c-clamp style tools do not take that into consideration and can cause some issues when driving the caps back into the yoke.

Timmy has a detailed video that covers this:
https://youtu.be/6arj3PpT1p4

 

Yeah, I watched his vid. Marred the crap out of it using the 3 jaw puller. Goes without saying, follow that route be extremely careful.

Now that OEMTools remover or the Tiger version - much easier. It drives it out all the way clean and you can remove the bearing cup with little effort. Flip it over and do the opposite side. Rinse and repeat and done. YMMV of course but I'm satisfied with this route.

The installer makes short work of pressing the cups back in. The magnetic end helps hold it in place. I also found that I could literally turn it by hand and press it back in, no ratchet needed and definitely no impact.

Anyway, just another route to go. Cheers.

 

Only did mine couple years back.......
......but recently found these puppy's and was so easy to do......I'm gonna switch em out again....

 

Why does Timmy the tool use butters as his thumbnail? I wonder if he has written permission for that.

 

taco survival kit......

 

Is that the smallest ujoint press they sell? I believe that is the light truck version?

 

They might have a smaller one but this is the one I ordered (it does the job) -

$81 OEMTOOLS 24539 Automotive U Joint Puller, U Joint Removal Tools, U Joint Tool Works On Most Passenger Vehicles and Light Duty Trucks, Easy-to-Use U Joint Puller

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07C7YTMC2/

 

I believe they make one size up.....black ones....
they sell for a lot more.....like $110 and up.....

Look for harbor freight or ebay knockoffs for around $30....
.....just a matter of time.......

 

What I like about the tool....allows to precision press cups back in so they dont bind....

Hundred years ago I did a chevy van.....UJ failed again within couple years...thats probably why.....
'75 G series.....

 

I've done mine twice in the past 9-months...my taco is eating u-joints. Anyways, I used two screwdrivers to force out the c-clips, tapped with a ball peen hammer, then the first time I pressed in the u-joints and this last time I tapped them in with a socket and hammer. Getting the shaft off is the hardest part. I replaced on u-joint with the drive shaft on the truck...just laid a piece of plywood on the ground for the yoke to lay on.
Those clips are on the inside of the yoke, and I use two flat-head screwdrivers, holding both in one hand, and tap both of them at the same time with the hammer. They pop out fairly easily. If I cradled the yoke on a block of wood it might be easier, but i never expected to have to replace them so frequently.

 

I've had really good luck on a number of things.....just sliding together without a press.....
by sticking the appropriate new part or seal in freezer for 24hr prior......
Rear axle bearing and inner seal both slipped right in......

 

For removal, a hammer and wooden blocks worked fine for me. I bolted the flange to some angle iron to help hold it steady.

For reassembly I used the C-clamp style Autozone rental tool. Didn't want to risk it on the 20T press in case it dropped a needle and I wouldn't be able to feel it bind up.

I did all four this way, no trouble once I got the hang of it.

 

Vast years of doing UJ's.......water gets in em......hot needles rust....then disintegrate...in double time....

Flushing out with the zerts once a year is best way......

You say.....the four channels dont flush/flow evenly......or some any at all....flushing only couple channels instead of all 4 corners....

You have to micro torch the slower channels to help em along while pumping grease.....till all four flush......not rocket science.....