Ubj correct touqe

I replaeced my ubj this past week with sanki 555s. I touqed them to 80 ft lbs and they threaded down this far on the joint. Is this OK and normal?

 

Uh oh...

 

Can you elaborate

 

Im just messin with you...I'll let somebody chime in.If it torqued OK it should be good.

 

To early to give me a heart attack lol

 

Honestly it's probably going to be fine, but I've only ever used OEM Toyota UBJs and they've always lined up much better (without that gap) when torqued down.

Why'd you choose the 555 UBJs? The Toyota ones are only like $45 a piece

 

To be honest. The 555s have a great reputation and they were available local. The oem ubjs were 4 days out before any dealership or Amazon would have them. I had Saturday to fix my truck and once we pulled the spindle, we realized the ubjs had play and I went ahead and changed them while the truck was apart.

 

I gotcha. Maybe for a little piece of mind you could back the castle nut off a bit and apply blue loctite, and then retorque them. But I'd think you'll be alright

 

I think my main concern is that it's compressing the ubj. It seems to drive good and I don't hear any noises.

 

80 ft lb is the correct torque for the UBJ.

I'm far more concerned about how far the castle nut is away from being aligned with the hole for the pin lol

 

Ok I was thinking the same thing as @Wulf that the concern was more the large gap between the cotter pin and castle nut. The compression of the ball joint itself looks fine to me. Does it look bad from another angle (i.e. the side)?

 

Here are the pictures with a better angle of each side.

 

The castle nut looks very small -- like there's not a lot of "nut" around the threads...

 

They were the same size as the originals I took off. 19mm

 

Ball joints itself looks fine (compression wise). I'd put some loctite on the threads and send it

 

I think the main problem is there is much more threads on the new lbj than the original. Here is the a pic of the threads.

 

Yea but the 555 one appears to have drilled their cotter pin hole farther up away from the castle nut (meaning the extra threads it has mostly sit between the nut and cotter pin, and they should be above the cotter pin in an ideal world).

 

If it makes you feel any better I just did this job with the 555's from my local Napa and the passenger side UBJ on mine did the same thing. Kept thinking I was pulling the ball out of the socket or something but it took 80 ft lbs and the castle nut was exactly like yours not engaging the cotter pin. They must of had a run of these with longer threading or hole drilled too high?