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uca install today

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by brutalguyracing, Mar 7, 2010.

  1. Mar 7, 2010 at 4:47 AM
    #1
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    broken mods
    ok the weather looks good for today so here it goes l.r. u.c.a. install today
    any tips or advise??
    jack truck up on stands remover wheels take off brake line bracket bend tabs remove ball joint/ spindle nut hit with big hammer remove top bolt bend fender "watch out for wires & gas lines" reinstall bolts in reverse torq all done
    anything im missing here???
    any special tools i will need ???
     
  2. Mar 7, 2010 at 5:17 AM
    #2
    Brunes

    Brunes abides.

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    A pitman arm puller or a small pulley puller may make the spindle bolt removal easier...I found a hammer was kinda awkward to get in there.

    GOOD LUCK!!
     
  3. Mar 7, 2010 at 5:20 AM
    #3
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    thanks im gonna need it

    does the sway bar & battery have to come off too or no???
     
  4. Mar 7, 2010 at 5:22 AM
    #4
    Brunes

    Brunes abides.

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    I didn't take the battery out for mine. The sway bar- I'm not sure. I don't THINK it NEEDS to....but mine was already off whenever I did my UCAs cause I was doing my lift at the same time....
     
  5. Mar 7, 2010 at 5:39 AM
    #5
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    ok thanks well here goes nothing
     
  6. Mar 7, 2010 at 5:51 AM
    #6
    Brunes

    Brunes abides.

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    You'll be fine- Post up photos or questions if you got them....We'll be around!!!
     
  7. Mar 7, 2010 at 5:58 AM
    #7
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD .....

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    Make sure the rounded part of the ball joint plate is facing toward the truck and also make sure you support your hub when you knock the spindle free or else you'll hyper extend your ABS Sensor line like I did
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Mar 7, 2010 at 6:24 AM
    #8
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    sweet i would have over looked that one
     
  9. Mar 7, 2010 at 6:28 AM
    #9
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD .....

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    Sorry there dirty in the pic...I had went wheelin the day before :eek:
     
  10. Mar 7, 2010 at 7:19 AM
    #10
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    alright here i go off to do the job hope it works out .....later guys
     
  11. Mar 7, 2010 at 7:35 AM
    #11
    paintdiddy

    paintdiddy Machine gun shits

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    good luck
     
  12. Mar 7, 2010 at 7:48 AM
    #12
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    You'll need to disconnect your sway bar at the ends but you don't need to remove it.

    May I suggest you unplug the wheel speed sensors at the front of the spindles. It just takes a little screwdriver and about 30 seconds to lift the tab and unplug them. I let the LCA hang too low once and broke the L-shaped part of the wheel speed sensor. It's a $200 piece of plastic!!!! I found one used and still paid $85. Since I disconnect that plug, I disconnect the battery first as a precaution.

    When disconnecting the UCA from the spindle, only unthread the castle nut about half way. Hit the top corner of the spindle with your BFH. When it breaks loose, that nut will only let it fall a 1/2" or so instead of all the way and potentially breaking lines or wires. Remove the nut the rest of the way and ease down the spindle by hand. I typically zip tie it to the coil or UCA as much as possible to keep it from hanging on lines. At least rest it on a jack stand or something.

    Once it's all changed out, getting the UCA and the spindle to reach other to get the castle nut started can be tricky. They really don't want to reach each other. Use a ratcheting tie down strap around the upper and lower control arms to pull them together. Just guide the bolt into place as you clamp.

    Good luck.
     
  13. Mar 7, 2010 at 2:09 PM
    #13
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    yea baby all done...it was a quick and easy job
    thanks guys
    i had bolth side done from start to finish in 1 hour 45 mins...
    i post some pics in a min....

    does everything look ok nothig backwards???
    the last 2 pics are of my cv's how do they look
    how do these # look??????? 265/75/16
    driver front----36 3/4 pass front-----37 1/4
    driver rear-----37 1/2 pass rear-----38
    and i get my alingment tomm... i want 0 / 0 / 2.4 correct???

    thanks again guys

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Mar 7, 2010 at 3:03 PM
    #14
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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  15. Mar 7, 2010 at 3:11 PM
    #15
    Brunes

    Brunes abides.

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    Looks good man. I don't know anything about the LR UCAs...so someone else will have to chime in on those.

    0/0/2.4-3.1 will get the job done (Those should be factory specs...so it should be a non-issue)
     
  16. Mar 7, 2010 at 3:26 PM
    #16
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing [OP] BIG DADDY

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    sweet i called the alingment shop today at like 1pm and they said bring it in i get there and the guys like oh no we cant do this alingment today....his man in the shop would screw it up..." i gave him the adjustment sheet and i also stopped by there 2 days ago with the control arm to show them how it adjusts off the truck"......
    i even offred to show him how............." which is said he is an alingment shop / bussiness" { firestone lifetime $150 }....so back i go tommorow
     
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