UCA Question for a minimal lift

Hmm. So did you end up getting the 2" after it settled? Just at first it was higher? I won't be adding weight so don't want it to be too high.

 

No he would just set them to 3* of castor. How would he know where 0* was? He will look at the screen on the alignment machine and align it to 3*. What I tell my alignment guy is max out the castor then set camber and toe as close to zero as he can.

 

The front settle becuase springs settle. I was referring to what the leaf pack looks like with about 200 lbs in the back. I wouldn't worry about it. The mediums will be fine. Plenty of people run them. Or get the heavy and remove a leaf because I believe they're the same price.

 

great thanks!

 

There isn't a "set place" to put the truck at 0 degrees. Think of caster as the angle of the line from the point where the spindle connects to the lower control arm, to where it connects to the upper control arm. If the spindle is perfectly vertical, lets call that 0 degrees of caster. If the connection to the LCA is slightly forward of the connection to the UCA, that is positive caster. The JBA arms are designed with the upper ball joint in a position that will create 3 degrees of caster. The screen on the alignment rack will be showing the measurements of caster, and will be reading 3 degrees when it is at 3 degrees

 

ah gotcha. Thanks for the explanation!

 

I'm torn between the SPC's and JBA's. Cost is almost the same.

 

My installer just said I should get mounting bolts so we don't have to bend sheet metal in my wheel well. Anyone know what he's talking about?

 

The UCA bolts are not easy to get out, they hit the sheet metal in the wheel well when you try to remove them. I cut and still couldn’t get the bolt out on the driver side, so I cut it twice. I then had to bend the metal to get the new one in since the fuel lines blocked it from going in backwards.

 

This



It’s the bolt being tightened in this pic.



And what @Sub_Par said

 

Oh OK. So new bolts would mean you could just put them on when you removed the assembly? Could someone help with a link to where to get these bolts?

 

Ah I see! Do you have a link or at least the part numbers to get these bolts he needs? Would be much appreciated. I'm on a 2018. And I take it he would then just cut the bolt instead of trying to pull it out.

 

I just went to the dealer. They had one in stock.
Here’s the part number.

 

Thanks man. So I need 2 of them I assume?

 

Yup

 

I read that some are having weird wandering issues going 2" in the front causing them to get UCA's while others are not. I believe the alignment can make or break it at 2" Plus you take a gamble at the needle bearing issue. I went 1.5 in front and 1 in the rear and I have Zero issues. Firestone lifetime alignment...I just let them do their thing..... Based on what I read up to 1.5 in the front and up to 1 in the rear are the safest settings.

most go 2 in the front and 1.5 in the rear....Honestly you would be hard pressed to notice a half an inch front or rear going with the safer settings. My destination AT tires have a lot of tread on them stock. Most 265/75/16 tires give you a half an inch over stock. The destinations gave me 3/4". so really I'm only about a 1/4 inch off compared to others.

 

Wait so did you do UCAs? and Whats your rear lift setup?

 

No UCA's. I did not want to pay for them.

rear is a 1" block

 

My rig wanders hard with the OEM UCAs on about a 2.25 inch lift. I have SPC arms sitting in the garage but haven't had the chance to install.

 

So another question. If one is only doing a 1 or 1.5" front lift. What caster would one aim for during an alignment with stock UCAs?