UCA's and Alignment

I got 3.9 out of my TC’s. Tech said i could go 4.5 if i wanted but i got them to dial it back.

 

Damn, well good to hear, though they only had 2 degrees in the arms, plus 1 degree with SPC lower cams.

 

Just did a toytec 2.0 coil over with AAL in the rear. Got me about 2.75” lift in the front. I’m running JBA UCAs. How do these numbers look? Not really sure why they couldn’t get the driver closer to zero

 

Whew! I've read through all these posts and there is a good bit of information in here! Would there be any drawbacks to running 4° of Caster? I saw at least one setup in here running 4° and he loved it. My current 2nd Gen setup is...

3.2° Caster on Driver's Side
3.6° Caster on Passenger Side

This was achieved with Icon Tubular UCA's paired with an Icon ~3" Lift & 295/75/16 BFG KO2's.

 

The desired caster is all over the place in this thread. Op says 2.4 to 2.7 is best for 33s and 35s

You got other guys shooting for the 4* mark.
That sounds like it would make steering really heavy.


Has there been any consensus made as a forum? I'm getting an alignment tomorrow.
I'm going to ask for 2.4 to 2.7
I'm on 32s now but will probably be 33
I'm guessing that I'm at about 1.7 on caster now, with camber and toe pretty close to zero.
I've lifted 2 in, put spc arms on set to E and have the camber on the spc right in the middle.
Never touched the LCA. The spc set at D had a heavy steering feel, but tracked straight. Set with less caster at E still tracked great with a lighter effort to steer.

 

Has anyone have experience with UCAs that ONLY correct joint angle - I mean like actual numbers and not "this feels better than stock" which is what everyone seems to say. Show alignment numbers. I know that it isn't going to do much with caster as compared other arms that actually relocate the position of the balljoint but inherently, changing the angle does change position but slightly. I'm trying to see if the difference is plenty for alignment: getting caster above 2 or 2.5* with straight wheels and ~3" lift.

 

I think most of the aftermarket UCA give 2 degree more caster than a stock UCA.
This is to compensate for the reduction in caster that comes with a lift, and rotating the UCA down and towards the front.
Not sure what they do compared to stock camber by way of UCA.

 

Here is mine with spcs

 

What size tire are you running?
Op of the thread suggested 3.0 for 35s
You are only a little above that.
Does it seem to track really well, to the point of taking more effort to steer or turn. (Still better than too light)

 

I'm running 33s and it tracks great. Steering is tighter and drives perfect.

 

Greetings all!
It's been a while since I've been here. But I've updated the original post to include further findings on UCA's.
Most UCA builders have been approaching this issue incorrectly. Sorry it took me so long to provide this information. I was busy with "life" and didn't really re-visit this issue to validate the industry data.
At this time I highly recommend SPC UCA's. (Icon Billets can do it also (along with a few others) but it is really complicated and most alignment shops just do NOT have the expertise to do so. (Or the willingness to try)

My reasons are covered in the OP post and I am in no way affiliated with SPC. I submit it for your consideration and information.

Have a Great Day!

 

reviews on ome uca?

just installed el111r leafs, 885 coils with 5100s all around; seeing some posts with similar setups, they couldn't get the caster up to the ideal 2.0*-2.4*; guessing i'll be in same boat without aftermarket uca

 

Coming here because i need some updated info.
Need to get my tacoma re aligned. Suspension is the following
5100’s,OME885’s total chaos uca’s

What should the ideal alignment specs be? Last got an alignment when i lifted the truck back in 2020 and i told my guy to set the specs as follows which is what i got in one of the threads on here

0° toe
0° camber
2.5°ish caster or as close to 3 as can get it.

When i picked the truck up i didn’t get an alignment sheet so i have no idea what he set it
to but the issue i have had ever since is when driving my steering wheel is off centered and is to the left a decent amount.

So my question is what should my specs be when i get it aligned again?? Is what i posted accurate? or is there something that’s wrong/ could be better

 

There may be nothing wrong with your alignment. (Depends on how your truck drives?)
You steering wheel being off is just the tie rods need to be adjusted better. The Tech should have done it. Take it back and ask hime to fix it for you.

 

yeah i got the truck re aligned. guy lowered my caster from 3.5 to 2.5 which is basically stock. i rubbed a lot more on the plastic after than i did when i went there so i trimmed a bunch more off and it’s fine.
wish he didn’t adjust the caster but whatever! These roads in NY mess your alignment off every single day due to the pot holes and rough roads from snowplows in the winter so annoying!!

 

The SPC instructions say that setting (f) will give and additional +0.25deg of caster, while setting (g) will give an additional +0deg of caster. The OP is basically telling you to not use the benefit of having the SPC UCAs. With the OPs "recommended" settings, the tire will essentially be in the same position as the stock UCAs. People should be starting off on the (d) setting which gives an additional +2deg of caster. This will push the tire toward the front and away from the cab mount. When done with 33s you won't have to do a CMC for clearance. The misinformation should be fixed in the OP.

 

I am the OP.
You want to correct the Camber.
And NO start at "G" and if you need Caster then use the SPC's to add Caster.

 

Adding caster at UCA will move tire back towards the cab mount, adding caster at LCA will move it forward. You can see it moving when you adjust the plate... the whole beauty of SPC is you can add just enough caster (and cross caster by potentially running on different settings on each side) to get back to good number while moving the tire back the least amount towards the back (vs uca with static caster where you'll get really high numbers but tire will be pushed towards cab mount). Also the camber adjustment on them will let you independently fix the camber when the LCA are set max positive caster (affecting the camber) for max clearance from cab mount.

I'm at 3.5/3.9 caster (bottoms maxed out on passenger side but not drivers) and 0.8/0.9 camber now on 285/75/16.... but truck is in the shop now with a guy that seems to know his stuff and is willing to adjust camber on the uppers. That is position D camber all the way out to the tire on uca with 2" lift 2018 tacoma...next time I'll try setting at E since the steering is a bit heavy.

 

With 285"s you don't need that high Caster.
2.5-3* of Caster is good! Too much Caster will cause unnecessary load to your rack-n-pinion. (premature wear)
Setting "F" (+.25 Caster) with your LCA moved fully forward, and use the SPC's sliding bolt to get the Camber and you'll be "Golden"!

 

yup agreed. Really "D" I think is not the best default (which is why I set it there originally) per SPC for what most are trying to accomplish on this forum. I was originally scared of moving it in case it threw off an alignment guy in some way...but seems like I got a good one now so I'm more inclined to get it just right.