Udr headers/check engine light.

@Gadget makes great products... My URD y-pipe was good.

 

The sim is plugged into the rear O/2 's
Possibly could have caused a issue by plugging it in backwards but doubtful as its only interpreting a signal and then sending what the ecu needs to see.

 

How about the gaskets? Didn't see you answer that part. Either new OEM crush gaskets or the URD gasket must be used at install. The advantage of the URD gaskets is that they can be re-used, where the OEM ones cannot be.

The sim can only plug into the O2 sensors, and not the WRAF sensors. No worries there.

Is there even a specific left and right designation on the sim? I don't believe there is.

The harness can get swapped side to side. That qill cause issues like this. Not sure how that would happen during a header installation but it could. You'd know.

Collector is where the WRAF sensors need to be. Won't affect the exhaust for the code you're getting though.

Only use copper antiseize on the sensors and not grey silicone based antiseize, or you run the risk of damaging the sensors.

If you banged on the sensors to hard there is also the chance it is damaged. As they are sensitive and brake easily.

 

I posted above I got the udr gasket kit. Then picked up manifold gaskets from the dealer.
I used copper anti seize when I put the the 0/2 back in. I did one side at a time as to not mix them up.
The sim is installed per the udr webpage.
Short connector on the passanger side then run the long connectors over the trans to the drivers side.

I will be ordering the o/2 extention harness so I can move the warf sensors to the collector.

 

Hmm. Minus there just being a leak, or worst case scenario of the passenger sensor being broken(which would likely cause a different cell) I don't know what else to say.

You seem pretty competent, so it could very likely be something that is not your fault. Keep us posted.

 

I may have found the issue. I have a exhaust leak on the passenger side at the header. all the nuts a tight. I have checked them 3 times. So it would see the flange for the header is warped. why me

 

Too much Hercules.

 

Tell tell exhaust soot around the external surface of the flange?

 

no exhaust soot around any thing but I can hear the leak. I have checked every nut and bolt on the headers from the flange to the collector and they are are nice and tight.

 

At least you found the problem.

 

but all the mean is I have to pull it back off. Take it in to get the surface machined. At that point do I pull the drivers side back off and have it machined as well just to be safe.Or do I just pull them both of and go back to stock.

 

Are the flanges on the Y-pipe bent as well?

I bent the flanges on my Doug Thorleys some years ago. Caused the same issue.

I ended up bending the ends back into place, and not tighenting as hard.

 

A big crescent wrench can give you the bite and leverage.

Or bigger grade 8 washers, pulling the gasket out, then bolting it down until it flattens out the flange again.

 

Bent football flanges is why I have swapped to all v-band flanges. No gaskets, no bending, no more problems.

 

Ok, so no URD headers for me...who's a reputable company to deal with that makes a headed for the 4.0 V6? It goes without saying that I'm looking for some gains, not just sound.

 

Did you use the copper permatex gasket maker on the header where it mates to the head? I did. I re-used my header to head gasket too.

 

I did not. I used brand new OEM gaskets. One would think copper high temp permatex would not be needed if the flanges were flat. But looking back maybe I should have used it anyway

I checked the collector flanges and all are tight and no leaks there. Its at the head flange where I can hear the leak

 

Ahh. I was thinking it was the collector flange.

 

I used it because I was afraid of what happened to you. I put a small bead around the port cutout of the gasket on both sides of the gasket. Ugh sorry to hear you've got a leak.

 

Try this. Loosen all of the header to head nuts. Loosen the transmission support bracket. Tighten the ones in the middle. Top then bottom. Then the outer nuts, cross pattern.

Unless that is the way you did that the first time?

Then tighten the trans support bracket.

When I did Lucario Runner's headers, we had to notch out the transmission support bracket at the collector flange. As the holes wouldn't line up properly. Of course his were the prototype Spec-U headers.