Uh oh...

After the easy out. Just get it out a bit more and then use the vice grips.
Old cars are amazing and they suck!! Good learning experience for you!! You will be able to help a lot of people out after this

 

Thank you. You are right, this is a good learning experience for me. I just ordered all the tools I’m going to need, so hopefully I can get started on it in a few days.

 

Shoot me a DM and I’ll send you my number. As long as I don’t have my shitlin I can walk you through it.

soak that bolt now. Easy day

 

Forgive my ignorance but I’m new to this and not familiar with how to do a PM.

 

Touch the username of the member you want to PM. A pop up will appear. Touch “Start a conversation”

 

There’s something called vampliers specifically for your situation. They’re not cheap so I don’t know if you want to own them.

The ezout brand extractors I don’t care for. They might work if you weren’t cross threaded. Drill & extract would be what I recommend.

If you end up messing up the threads bad enough that they’re unuseable you could use a thread repair insert such as a helicoil. You need to know the size & thread pitch of your broken bolt to get the right size insert.

 

??

That's an accurate method for bolt extraction. And should be the first method attempted.

 

All I can add is to use a center punch before drilling any holes. You don't want that drill bit walking and messing anything up. I told my friend how to extract a bolt with an extracting kit. I told him to use a center punch and he didn't. The drill walked and it started to drill into his manifold. Well the dummy kept drilling and messed the hole up so bad he had to go and buy a new intake manifold. Like others have said, go slow. If something doesn't seem right, stop and reassess the situation.

 

Easiest way I've found is get a nut that fits over the broken bolt stub, & weld inside the nut welding it to the stud. Let it cool down & extract with a regular socket.

 

Vice grips, twist stub out they are not that tight

 

This is the easiest way ^

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233321179589

 

Center punch, absolutely, I thought I put that in there.

I had a similar situation, an air compressor manifold bolt broke off angled. Someone else had started drilling it crooked. I took a tiny die grinder, made a flat spot to center punch, then drilled but the manifold was in the way to drill so the drill bit kept wanting to walk out of the punch towards the hole threads. Patience and very slow rotation of the reverse drill bit started a hole almost centered, quick on and off of the drill, then it bit and rotated outwards slightly. Then I was able to reangle the drill towards the center of the bolt and drill just deep enough to get my extractor in and spin the broken bolt out. Looked like the bolt stretched then someone forced it in. Saved a $2k air compressor.

I’ve done hundreds, each needs to be carefully evaluated and plan an attack.

If it’s an exhaust bolt, plenty of penetrant, soak overnight, more penetrant, more soak, drill, get the extractor set, put tension on it, heat it up while maintaining tension, then it might come out. One I had, it was either successful extraction or replace the exhaust manifold. So I sprayed it, let it soak overnight. Repeat. Sprayed it, drove around to get it hot. Let it cool. Sprayed it, let it soak overnight. Then drilled and successfully extracted it.

Another trick is to put tension on the extractor and tap the part with a hammer. The shock wave will sometimes get it to start backing out.

Another trick is to use tap sockets instead of an adjustable wrench to apply even pressure. A tap handle will also work. But with tap sockets you can use regular socket extensions to get in the best possible position to apply tension.

 

I may be in the minority here but I’d leave it. You said you stripped it while putting it back in meaning the spark plug is brand new now. I’d leave it and drive it for the next 60k miles since the spark plugs should easily go that long and then deal with it on the next spark plug change. Would much rather get another 60k miles out of the truck vs messing around with it now and potentially mess more things up.

Scenario 1: leave it, get another 60k miles, then deal with it on next spark plug change
Scenario 2: mess with it now, potentially disabling the truck if something goes wrong and be truckless during pandemic that we don’t know will end and maybe having to go to a repair shop and have someone in your truck to fix it that may have coronavirus and then infect you and your family possibly killing someone in the process.

Sure, I went from 0 to 100, but seems like an easy choice to me

 

It’s the cop bolt, not the spark plug

 

Vampliers are a neat tool, but they require something to be sticking up / out enough to actually grip onto. The OP's original pics show the bolt broken off cleanly below the top of the hole. Couple that with the fact that the OP said he cross threaded the bolt causing it to break off and this tool is a non-starter in this particular instance. Vampliers are a nice tool to keep on hand though.

 

Going forward start threading ALL bolts, nuts, etc. by hand to prevent cross-threading.

 

Which is the proper way of doing it ^

 

I like to scrub the fastener with wd40 and a toothbrush, wipe clean, put anti seize on the threads unless it needs thread locker. If it’s a piece held by multiple fasteners, get them all started, get them all slightly snug crisscrossing pattern, all slightly tight, then all tight. Of course that’s on my vehicles, not while I’m on the clock.