Undercoating a new truck?

Another reference point.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/woolwax-application-cost.782028/

 

Seems like Woolwax and Fluid film dry and leave a coating where Surface Shield stays tacky/greasy? Just did the first coat of SS last weekend. Going to hit everything again this coming weekend. Will let you know how it handles a Wisconsin winter.

 

Fluid film and woolwax will never dry. I have an open can thats like 3 years old, still like it just opened.

 

OP I think whatever you do will be better than nothing. These threads are starting to be like oil threads. Fluid film is a woolwax formula so I doubt "woolwax" is much better it's practically the same thing. My truck is heading into it's 4th new england winter. I spray it every fall with 6-7 cans of fluid film. I just did it last weekend and still have no visible rust, even on the front skid plate, receiver hitch and rear bumper brackets. Are there better products out there? Probably. But your truck isn't going to rot out while you're sitting in it because you used fluid film or woolwax instead of cosmoline. Don't overthink it. I'm sure the PB will be just fine. And to the people that say it washes off too easily, come slide around under my truck in some brand new clothes and get back to me hahaha. It may look gone, but it isn't

 

The key is to touch it up every year. No such thing as a one and done rustproofing product.

 

Imo, you need to choose a rust inhibiter thats tailored to your area. Roads get wet quite a bit in new england 3 seasons out of the year with plenty of salt and brine in winter. The lanolin based inhibiters just don't stay on if coating once a year. Inhibiters like cosmoline make a far better choice dollar wise.

 

If its below freezing and snow, you probably won't have as much an issue. We have lots of water on our roads. At highway speeds that lanolin stuff just suffers from too much abrasion spray and gets blown off, then your into all the salt and brine on the roads with little to no rust protection left. I've had decades of this when using fluid flim.

 

Just did my pre winter touch up, 98% of the fluid film I applied last fall was still there. Only spots in the wheel well were missing, live in eastern ct. Used surface shield as that holds up better in those areas in my own testing. Most of the stuff you say about lanoline products is just incorrect.

 

Did my 4runner with FF every year and when I sold it at 16 years old and 200+ miles , the frame was in very good shape. The FF , for me at least , did wear a bit in a few spots that took a lot of road debris. Back part of frame rails and skid plate seemed to be areas that took the abuse and showed the FF thinning , but never failing. I just did my 2022 OR with FF.

 

Not that product….just be aware. You cannot prevent corrosion. You can slow it down but rust is a car makers friend. I treat may car yearly with biodegradable motor oil. Have never had a rust problem in decades of car/truck ownership. Rust mitigation is a yearly maintence requirement if you live in the rust belt.

 

How do you get inside the doors and hood? I used the big sprayer with the compressor and it wouldn't fit the small holes.

 

Whatever you do, get it done yearly, not that 1 time application crap.

 

Sounds to me that the Cosmoline sets up more like a wax than a film?

 

I'd say that's accurate. I've applied it and found it to protect really well through Iowa winters.

 

Krown is the way to go.

 

I purchased my 22 TRD Sport in early August. Took it to Krown 4 days after purchase. I have been using Krown products for the past 4 years. I live a very highly salted area the Krown has performed very well in my opinion. i have it reapplied every 12 months. The only downside is that the vehicle will drip for a few days after application. I'm interested in seeing how the frame gets through the winter.

 

I've been good with the last 3 Maryland winters using a metal wire brush, Rustoleum rust converter, and Rustoleum stop rust black paint. I touch up any rusted spots that may appear by first brushing anything on the surface away, then applying rust converter, and then a layer of the paint. Frame still looks brand new and barely any touch ups each year.

 

Yup….exactly…Thicker isn’t always better. The ability to seep into crevasses and through accumulated dirt and already accumulated rust in body panels is more important.

 

Lots of work. “Painting” it it with grease using a foam brush is easy and just as effective. If you scratch paint, it rusts underneath and holds moisture. If you scratch a surface treated with grease, it naturally fills in the void.

 

This is what you need, the wand is a few millimeters wide and fits in the door drains and most panel gaps.

$47 Fluid Film 11.75 Oz Undercoating Protection Aerosol Spray Can Black 3 Pack, Rust Inhibitor and Prevention, Anti Corrosion Multi Purpose Penetrant and Lubricant, Extension Wand

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-U...275-457b-b4e2-68d8ea23caeb&pd_rd_i=B08MQZDW1Y