Undercover ridgelander for 3rd gen

I am wondering this as well. Any insight OP or from others that have the cover? DCSB specifically

 

I have it and yes can hold a RTT, i don’t have a rtt but friend with same one does and no problems. If you’re worried about too much weight you can add a 3rd crossbar, only drawback would be it may not be able to be opened with tent on top unless you get stronger shocks to accomodate.

 

Thanks for the reply. If opened, would it clear the rear window and cab as well?

 

I thought I would resurrect this thread to add my two cents on this tonneau cover. A few items I found of note while installing and using the cover so far:

1. The first step of the install requires removing the square bar on the front of the box to attach foam pads to either end of the bar, in order to close up the gap on the front corners of the box, and then reinstall the bar on the bed. The pads will not be enough to fully seal off the front corners of the box to moisture. It will keep out most of the water, but if you are driving through a downpour, water will seep in at the front corners and can pool on top of wheel wells. I would recommend taking some time on this first step of the install to fully evaluate how water can get in at the front corners after the pads are installed, and seal of any remaining gaps with RTV or such. If you wait to address it after the cover is fully installed, it will be much more difficult to adequately seal things up, unless you remove the whole system and start over. Also, the torx screws holding the bar onto the bed are a bit difficult to remove. You will need some leverage and a properly fitting bit in order to not strip the screw heads.

2. The rest of the install goes pretty easy if you take your time, read the instructions and check out the installation video on Youtube. The last step of installing the cover is adjusting the cover latch interface with the new bed rails at the rear of the bed. This will require loosening the nuts holding the latches to the cover to move them in or out laterally, so that when you close the cover, the latch hook will easily slip over/into the loop attachment on the rail, yet still be resting up against the loop laterally without any play, so that the cover cannot shift laterally once latched close. You will also need to fiddle a bit on where the loops are attached to the bed rails so that the latch hooks will interface near the midpoint of the loop. Lastly, the vertical adjustment of the loops will dictate how tight of a seal you will have at the rear end of the side rails and how much force you will have to push down on the cover to get it to latch if the tailgate is up (if the tailgate is down, there is very little resistance to latching the cover closed). To minimize the force it takes to fully close the cover, use a bright flash light and shine it from the outside at the both sides of the cover/bed interface. If the rubber gaskets are not in contact with the side rails, light will shine through into the inside of the bed. Continue to adjust the loops down until the light is blocked.

3. Water will be able to get in between the tailgate and the bed, and there isn't really anything you can do about it, as it is the design of the tailgate not the cover that is the issue. However, unless you are driving backwards through a down pour, the amount of water that will get in should be minor.

A few pros and cons:

Pros
-All the parts are quality and appear stout. It doesn't appear there was any penny pinching going on in by using substandard hardware. One exception might be the LED light strip that comes with the cover. That seemed kind of cheap and just sticks on by an adhesive pad.
-There is the potential for a lot of modularity and ways to customize how and what you attach to the top of the cover.

Cons
-I have a short box and find the cover a bit too heavy and large to feel comfortable removing and attaching it by myself, and I don't consider myself to be weak. You might be okay if you spend a few hours in the gym every day, otherwise plan on it being a two person job to remove and attach the cover. I am planning on hooking up a hoist in my garage to hopefully make the cover removal a one man operation when at home.
-You lose your bed rails, although you gain the tango track rails. It appears that the new rails are the same size/configuration of those on a Rhino Rack Pioneer rack, but not necessarily the same size/configuration of the slots in the tops of aero bars, heavy duty bars or euro bars, but I could be wrong on that. This uncertainty does make it difficult to determine what accessories will fit. In addition, the top slot/track of the new bed rails does not have a widened cutout on either side, so you have to remove the end cap on the rail to slide anything in, which requires removing a screw. As such, you can't quickly attach and remove items from the tops of the rails.
-Rhino Rack doesn't appear to make any quick release type mounts that can be fully attached/remove by hand, such that you have to have a wrench of some sort to attach and remove items.

Rhino rack makes a ton of accessories, but it doesn't seem like there is a unified plan on how they should all go together, such that some accessories will not work with others. Their website is not much help in this regard, other than listing all the parts. You really need a product rep do research for you to determine what would fit and not fit. I haven't given up hope yet, but it is going to take a lot of research to figure how I am going to kit this cover out.

 

Thanks for all the info, I am pretty much on the fence between this setup and a regular folding hard cover tonneau with a cross rail system similar to the voodoo hi-rise system:
http://www.kbvoodoo.com/shop/toyota...-use-with-tonneau-covers-fits-years-2005-2016

I am still trying to pin down the right tonneau as something like the bakflip MX4 will not work with these rails.

 

Digging up an old thread. I just ordered one of these. Just wondering anyone else with experience with this? Going to set it up to carry 2 mountain bikes and a narrow basket

 

I am still very happy with mine. I've been meaning to follow up on this one with some more info on what I have found works for mounts, etc.

First of all, I put in a hoist in my garage to allow me to attach and remove the cover by myself. I used this kayak hoist for this:

$22 RAD Sportz Kayak Hoist Quality Garage Storage Canoe Lift with 125 lb Capacity Even Works as Ladder Lift Premium Quality

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EUL2DO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The white rope is my back up retention in case something breaks loose with the hoist.

To attach the hoist to the cover, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-S...keywords=rhino+rack+eye&qid=1574960824&sr=8-8

One item of frustration with Rhino Rack, is that there is no strict standardization in groove sizes between the vortex bars, heavy duty bars, euro bars, pioneer trays, and the grooves in the top of the cover and in the rails that attach to the bed. That said, open width and inside width (except for heavy duty bars) of the grooves between all groove types are pretty close. Where the grooves vary most, is in the depth. As such, some attachment blocks (that fit in the grooves) are too thick and will not slide in on some groove types. I am not sure about the Euro bar grooves, but for the others, the deepest to shallowest groove depths are as follows: Heavy duty bars, pioneer tray, vortex bars, cover bed rails, and finally the cover grooves. As such, something that fits the cover grooves should fit all the other grooves (except heavy duty bars). I can say for a fact that heavy duty bar mounts will generally not work with the pioneer, vortex bars, cover or rails, unless you use them sideways, but they are still too thick for the vortex bars, cover and bed rail grooves. Pioneer tray mounts are iffy, as the groove depth is deeper than the vortex bars. Most vortex bar mounts will work with the cover and rails, but some might be just a bit oversized, and require some grinding. The cover has relatively short slots on each end of the grooves to fit the mounts in, so the longer mounts might not fit in the cover due to length.

I can say for a fact that the pioneer tray eye bolts (link below) have blocks that are too thick to fit in the vortex bar, cover and rail groves.

Rhino-Rack USA 43178 Eye Bolt

https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-U...=rhino+rack+accessories&qid=1574960770&sr=8-3

I have fashioned my own groove blocks for the bed rails using these: https://www.mcmaster.com/3259T31

If you search the website, you can find the above blocks for other bolt threads. These will fit lengthwise in the vortex bars, but are too thick to fit in the cover and bed rails as they come. I had to grind them down with an angle grinder to get them to fit in the bed rails:


I was able to attach a Hi-lift jack to the side of the bed using the above blocks, some hardware from the store and these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKL8H16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Here is a photo of my jack in the mounts. This was the only way to attach the jack to the side of the bed and still be able to close the cover. To do so, I have to take off the jack foot. The cover is obviously not attached in the photo, but take my word for it, you can attach the cover and close it with this setup.

 

To maybe clear up some confusion, on groove/t-slot sizes, see below for my measurements on the vortex bar and the cover slots. I also measured the nut block for the pioneer tray eye bolt I had bought before I realize they wouldn't fit.

 

Got mine installed today. I had the hardest time getting the covers hinge to sit on the brackets pins. For the life of me I couldn’t figure how to get it to sit on it. By some miracle it finally dropped on.