UPDATE! Long!!! : HELP!!!! STRANDED!!! 2010 Won't Start after stopping for Gas!!!

Thanks, which number is it? 16?

 

That should be it, it should also say on the relay box cover..

 

Thanks. I see that, but in the diagram and looking at the actual box contents, I can't seem to determine which one is specifically the one to test. So on the diagram posted, page 24, it's number 16 on the diagram?

 

Here is the pic of relay box, its a purple one, in first row from fender (bottom of the picture)

 

Gotcha. Thanks. If it happens again and I have someone with me, I'll give it a try.

 

I'm new on the forum, but thought I might have something to add to this discussion.

The most difficult problems to troubleshoot are the ones that crop up intermittently. It's like the man with the leaky roof. If it ain't raining, there's no problem. If it is raining, nobody wants to go up on the roof.

So, you wait for it to happen again, and when it does there's not a technician in sight. "Hello? My truck wont start again."

"Well, bring it in and we'll see if we can fix it."

"It wont start. I can't bring it in."

"You said it doesn't do it all the time. When it does start, bring it in."

"If it starts, you're going to tell me there's nothing wrong with it."

And so it goes.

Good service technicians know that there are intermittent issues that sometimes have to be dealt with and found. The most difficult cases are the ones that are infrequent. If it happens often enough, the technician can just keep trying until it happens and go from there. He can also do a physical examination of all the components involved. He can look for a loose wire or check each component's operability. If your technician is giving up before finding the problem, that doesn't mean he is a bad person, or even a total incompetent. However, he should do better than to leave you frustrated and feeling like the situation is hopeless, though.

After reading your thread, I kept thinking about a long standing quirk I've had to deal with. I've been using Toyota's for a long time, and I remember several incidences where people would get the same symptom as you experienced because the steering wheel was not in the locked position. Turning the key produced nothing until you grab the steering wheel and rock it back and forth (sometimes hard) until it locked into place, then the vehicle would start.

I think it may have something to do with how the wheels are resting when the vehicle is turned off. If the power steering quits working at shutdown before relieving the tire torque, then it doesn't rest in a position where the lock engages. Then you have an unable to start incident.

That might also explain why an irate wife would be able to jump in and start it for you. She grabbed the wheel getting in and it thusly became locked making the truck able to engage the starter.

If that's not it, then sorry for long post. Good luck! I hope you figure it out.

 

This had crossed my mind a time or two during the incident and I did myself try to turn the wheel back and forth with the key in the ON position. Still didn't help. When the wife tried, it was after it had been to the dealership. Nice try though.

 

Here's another question: Is there a way to kind of override the complete sequence from the turn of the key? Let me explain, on my 71 Mustang, I could use a screwdriver to jump the terminals on the solenoid. Is there a way to jump the relay or solenoid on the starter to attempt a force engagement of the starter with the key in the ON position? I'm wanting to know, if or when it happens again, if I can try to determine if the starter is even being sent a signal or whatever it needs to engage or not. This would at least let me know if the starter even knows it's supposed to be engaging in the first place.

 

Ports 3 5 on the relay deliver the power to starter so in theory if you shorten those two starter will turn as long as key is in full start position. That bypysses all other connections and sends power to starter. I would probably be very careful doing it since damage to the starter maybe very quick or damage to the relay box. Remember there is 30A fuse on hat path for a reason
So in theory yes but practically I would not do that unless I know 100% what I am doing.

 

So I could not do it directly on the starter's solenoid, I'd need to go through the relay, in theory of course.

 

In theory thats correct. Starter does not get power until that relay clicks in even when the key is in start position, and that relay won't click in if your tranny is not in Neutral/Park position.
So when you turn ignition to start, there are two electrical paths happening at the same time.
1. sends power to relay from 30A fuse
2. sends power through the neutral/park switch to coil of the relay. When coil gets power it allows the path number 1. to be engaged to starter.

So when you turn the key and dont get starter action it could be
1. Ignition key connectors
2. Park/Neutral switch
3. Starter relay
4. Starter itself.

 

man i was missing that old solenoid when this happened....i was thinking, if this bitch had a old ford style solenoid, i'd have a spare in the tool box next to the screwdriver that i'd use to just make the starter at least engage unless it was toast.....

 

not to sound like a smartass, but is the battery cable tight? I did that once after installing some stereo equipment in an oldsmobile delta 88 once (i know, total ghetto ride) 99% of the time it would be fine, every now and then i would get nothing out of it, turns out i didn't tighten down the clamp on the positive terminal far enough and when it was sitting just right, no contact was made.

Got to the point where i called the tow truck to my place, the guy opened the hood, looked at the battery, went back to his truck to get a wrench, tightened, closed the hood, and said there you go kid... I tipped him 20 bucks and felt like a moron for a long time

 

I'm pretty sure I covered this somewhere in the previous pages now, but yes, the battery cables were tight.

 

Honestly, I would not be surprised if it is a problem with relay... If you want to try it just buy new denso one and have in glove box
option: Find used one in junk yard or get new one from NAPA. New one is around $50
It is possible that 2010 had bad batch of relays just like Land Cruisers had bad batch of EFI relays

 

i may just buy one and keep it in the truck, just like i kept that spare solenoid for my 71' Mustang....

 

Interesting, because I, too, have had my 2010 ~2-3 months, and have had the same issue exactly twice. The first time I tried starting the truck 2-3 times, and the engine would start but not run on it's own. I left it sit for 20-30 seconds and then tried again. The truck struggled a bit, but finally started. Now every time I get into the truck I'm listening, because it tends to sound 'sluggish' to start.... but that might just be psychological.

 

The truck has not presented the symptoms since we have been back. I'm really puzzled now.

 

Well took mine to lunch today and no problem. Sat for a couple hours at work parking lot and tried to start to go home. Two 3 cranks and it finally started but not the way it normally does. Sounds like it struggled but started. Odd. This is gonna be a tough one. Not tsb's for this for 2010 ?