Update on 2016 Throwout Bearing

Hey all,

A while back I made a post about the known issue with my truck's TOB squealing at 130k (2016 OR DCSB MT), I had the clutch + TOB replaced as side work by a head tech from the dealership around 140k because the pandemic had every shop by me closed. Fast forward I'm at about 155k and the throwout bearing is going out again and squealing. Furious, and swallowing my pride because obviously it's nobodies fault but your own once you pass warranty.

Did the ADM delete yesterday in hopes I can baby it back into shape while it's happening intermittently, just curious if you guys might have faced similar issues with the TOB by now, and how you're dealing with them. I've resorted to music or earplugs

It's not a Porsche but, a throwout bearing going out after 15k again with the same driving habits as the previous 140k is upsetting to say the least. I'm sure the damage is already done.

On a side note, if this pig is squealing again, does anyone have insight as to if/when this might grenade on me in the future? Just having a hard time understanding what may be wearing away since they updated the design from the 2nd gens. I've gratingly accepted that I'm stuck with its misery and would like to prepare myself for the final kick in the pants best I can.

Best of luck with you and yours.

 

easy install

was it a quality part..................possibly OEM

i agree its way tooo soon

unless something is out o alignment

very little there to screw up.................after 140k is that all U replaced ????????

 

To my knowledge they were OEM parts from a dealership, the truck has seen some accidents, particularly one where the frame needed reshaping, maybe something is out of alignment? Not sure what could be tho.

The truck is completely stock apart from the fan blower under recall, tires, and some body panels, to my knowledge the transmission was never touched during the repairs.

Edit: I requested repair records from the shop that did the work in the accidents prior and will find out more. The mechanic who did the clutch work contacted their Toyota rep and they basically said they have no clue, and why would I expect otherwise, idk!

 

Are the parts themselves under warranty? That might help ease the }Ain even if just a little but since I doubt anything can be done about labor.

 

I can find out for sure but I don't believe so no, I think easing the pain is a lost cause at this point, I'm in damage control mode. Appreciate the suggestion!

 

FYI- Even OEM’s can sometimes get a bad batch of bearings or other parts...
I’d be going back and asking for warranty.

 

Good point... I'm going to look into it more, I've definitely seen my share of that too.

Edit: No warranty on clutch parts was the response I've received

 

Are you sure this is throw out bearing. I believe the bearing is supposed to be full contact and spinning all the time on the 3rd Gen. 2nd Gen was was problematic because the the bearing wasn’t full contact and the pressure plate fingers would eventually rub the bearing as the clutch wore in. There were also mix and match of parts from different manufacturers that caused issues too.

 

You should quit driving the truck.

A bearing that is squealing is going to fail. It could fail in the next 1/2 mile or the next 300 miles.......final failure is unpredictable.

I'm sure you know Mr. Murphy, he will leave you stranded at the most difficult place and most inopportune time.

 

As far as has been posted, there is only the OEM TOB available.

Good luck!

 

jeez wonder how many MT vehicles with squealing TOBs are on the road right now. or maybe you're making light?

this is true. these things are never clear in real time, only looking back with validation, but I've suspected this may have happened recently with a small batch. there were a couple members here who had inexplicable noise at relatively low mileage. iirc this makes 3 I've seen. hard to say, though.

i happen to be on my 3rd TOB at 71k but that's another story and i didn't have TOB issues, just a spacer ring issue.

 

I know him all too well...that was my thinking on it too and financially it just won't work for me so I'm at my end here. My mechanic said the only way they'd acknowledge the bearings are bad is if I put another one in through a dealer and it failed again. I could manage that however history has taught me that it would leave me with an empty wallet and no closer to the goal.

 

It seemed to be a common problem on the 2nd Gens as well?

Given the age, the 3rd Gen is now just getting to the point where clutch swaps would be more common.

 

I'm pretty positive it is, between the evidence on the forums and having the clutch work done, I don't see how it could be anything else. There is a guy at the dealership who's put 3 TOB's in his truck since owning it, and he said he continued to do that until it went away.

 

It was a common issue with the second gens, I did some reading and thought originally the clutch pedal might need to be adjusted, my feeling is that they updated it to eliminate that problem and in effect made the same mistake twice (on purpose?)

 

There's a lot of carry over from the 2nd Gen. Although, the engine and physical gearbox are obviously different animals.

Still, the pedal adjustment is critical. At the limit of travel, there should be no loading on the master pushrod. That's is easy to check.


Hopefully you get straightened out after this go around.

 

Do you have what I describe as a chirp with the pedal 100% released or a noise with the pedal partially/fully depressed?

 

My 0.02$ - not that anyone gives a poop - I am a safe and sane MT driver and my TO bearing seems to a bit more audibly perceptible than other automobiles I have owned...............hmmm......I cannot say it will have a short life.

 

It's a chirp with pedal 100% released and it goes away when depressing the clutch pedal.

For what it's worth, finished bleeding the clutch line properly and the ADM delete is as good as they say.

While I was under the truck I noticed the clutch fork was vibrating quite a bit, this was not replaced during the clutch job and I don't believe I've heard many replace it. The throwout bearing wobbles around and I'm not certain, but I imagine it would cause the problem I'm experiencing. I could put pressure with it on my hand and it would straighten up and stop vibrating so much.

I don't think there is an adjustment for this, I'll see about replacing it, I'm no engineer but it seems a throwout bearing wobbling around for years would explain why it went out AND why it went out immediately again with the new parts.

 

Yeah I keep getting people telling me it'll explode on me if it's making any noise at all, which makes sense to me, I may have been not so safe and sane but I believe noise=dysfunction=broken