UPDATE to blown head gasket. i need some advice and answers.

If your cylinder walls look good.........you could run that burnie's cleaner thru it and try to free up those oil rings....

most likely they're not shot.....just stuck in that bottom grove from carbon crap....


bernie's fuel cleaner

ATS Chemical - ATS Chemical Official Site of 505 Pour-Ins (atschemicals.com)


Min I would do eng mounts....time chain guides....new oil pump seal...along with the other two front seals, water pump, thermostat, new ect temp sensor, new braided fluid hoses.......double check the front idle pulleys....wiggle test the harmonic balancer....

I'd also get the cam sensor while its all apart.......everything that touches the engine needs to be oem.....reguardless of cost...

 

Didn't see it here but I'd recommend having that head checked for cracks and flatness. I replaced a head gasket on a 200k mile 3RZ last month. Head was full of cracks.

 

Yeah like I said a clogged egr and these thin heads are the perfect storm....

like I said.....around 200K......was I right???

what do want to bet....cracks are predominantly on the exhaust side...


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...some-advice-and-answers.832023/#post-29816389

 

Clogged EGR won't make a lick of difference. It's just emissions garbage. 3RZ in other countries didn't even have it. It's purpose it to reduce cylinder volume at low demand and idling for improved fuel economy. It essentially gives you a smaller engine by filling some of the cylinder with useless exhaust vapor that can neither be burned or act as a catalyst. This smaller volume for air and subsequently fuel. Strictly emissions, it does nothing to mitigate heat in the intake tract or exhaust manifold. In fact on Toyota heads with internal EGR passages (the 3rz isn't one of these) it's often where head gaskets blow because they heat soak there. When you disable the system on these engines you can often save them from having a head gasket failure, no flow, no heat transfer.

 

Not only that, the ecm's are programmed to work with these....

the one's that dont have egr from the factory....the exhaust/cat system was specifically designed to handle that excess heat..

The later 2rz's did this delete....by blessing you with a double cat.....that costs god only knows how much...



so yeah....keep the egr.......get rid of pink anti freeze crap.....thats causing them to heat up even more...



As you can see I've spent an excessive amount of time studying all the heat problems in these engines..

enjoy your cracked head....

 

There's no excess heat, having an EGR or not regardless of the tune doesn't put the engine outside of any operating limit or even close to it. I doubt you could even tell one was present or removed by coolant temp or exhaust gas temp. An EGR by default would introduce slightly more cylinder temp by heating the air charge up since Toyota gas engines don't have EGR coolers. But it's negligible, it wouldn't effect his failure here at all. Even if the EGR was blocked or clogged the computer would eventually throw a EGR code and default to it being off until repaired and even if you went the extra mile and tricked it (which I've done) they don't have any AFR correction for it because the ECU trims to maintain stoichiometric ratio anyway.

 

Egr really only saves you at hwy speeds......
so if you dont do much highway......its no big deal...

at idle or acceleration its negligible....

egr is to give you better milage is a myth......probably like 1/10 mile extra a gallon....
and then only at hwy speeds...ugh

RE: ' When you disable the system on these engines you can often save them from having a head gasket failure, no flow, no heat transfer.'

heads don't fail at the egr port side.....they always fail on exhaust side....usually cylinder(s) 2 or 3

A lot got rid of pcv with just a breather.......you know just pollution crap...
but pop that cover 100K later and look at the mess...




There is another choice......you can break that heat exchange between the cat and headers......by sticking a turbo in there.....that will do it....


Toyota has been making these engines since 1959.....basicly you're calling them stupid...
and us stupid for believing them....

I poke fun at people all the time.....this is not one.....

 

What brand anti-freeze do you recommend/Use? Thanks

 

There's only two that's safe for all vehicles .......that's the preston 300/350K
and Peak 10x....and now there's new peak 10x thats 15yr/350K

Both say they're good for 350K and 15yrs.......which is laughable.......I'm thinking every 4 or 5 yrs....

Even the walmart grocers keep the $13 prestone concentrate in stock...
so thats less than a penny a day......






The red stuff is a mess....its just a coating......it protects by using a coating of slime instead of modern chemical technology...

Even Honda wont touch it with a ten foot pole.


You cant use just anything......because of the stupid FIPG caulking....

IF you get rid of the that and replace with real gaskets, and use RTV at those junctions on head gasket...then you can use anything you want.




If you use an aftermarket head gasket ......the red stuff has been know to attack the metal parts in it....

The cooling and oil determine longevity, why mess around.....just because toyota came out with a pet friendly formula....really...

You can choose to dine on that poison apple...that's America...

 

Thanks for the info, I flush & replace every 3-4, been using Toy red since new & recently re-sealed oil-pump cover & (280,000, original water pump which was replaced, crank seal, housing seal, etc ) gave me a peak into the engine. Did not find a slimy film but there was a white layer coating of something staining the alloy parts, did not like seeing it. I am done with the red. Motor has been trouble free, 3,000 oil changes, adjusted the valves at 175,000, #2 exhaust out of spec & the cams looked pristine. Does not leak a drop or use any oil. Going to buy a camera to look into the cylinders...fingers crossed

 

The way I found out the red.....I tried to flush it out in a new motor that was 6months old.

It took about 8 or 9 hot flushes to get it out.....cold water didnt do anything.

it just kept coming and coming and coming staining the clean water...

probably the heat bleaches the red out of the coating eventually...


For those set on the red....its not gonna kill you.....just change it more often...like you would with regular anti-freeze....


Here's what red looks like after 6mo in a new engine...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa5CYRtga9Y


that is messed up.....

 

bantering aside, ill keep in mind the egr and cat. i have deleted my egr tube in the back in the past fyi

solid recommendation of prestone. i have always used their coolant

anyways. dropped the head off at the machine shop today and hes pretty impressed with its condition. he will resurface and give it a bathhoping to be finished by the end of the week which is when i am expecting my gasket set to come in as well

talk about timing, but i still need a new water pump then to put it all back together torqued down and timed.

ill be taking it to a shop when finished to run tests ( which should have been done prior) and see how she runs.

 

so now the big thing on my mind is torque settings. what yall got? i dont have a manual handy

 

From the FSM:
The cylinder head bolts are tightened in 3 progressive steps.

(a) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the thread and under the heads of the cylinder bolts
(b) Install and uniformly tighten the 10 cylinder head bolts and plate washers, in several passes, in the sequence shown. (sequence is from center out)
Torque: 39 N-m (29 ft-lb)
(c) mark the the front of the cylinder head bolt head with paint
(d) retighten the cylinder head bolts by 90° in the numerical order shown
(e) retighten the cylinder head bolts by an additional 90°
(f) check that the painted mark is now facing rearward

front two bolts that go in front of the timing gear get torqued to 15 ft-lb

 

todays the day. got the head back from machinist in town, he charged 50$ and took off .05 of the head.

got everything cleaned on the block and it looks and appears to be in near pristine condition.

working on reasembly of the head and timing today, hoping to start her up tomorrow!

 

My question is for O’silver_taco. Given your explanation of the modified exhaust system with 2 cats being the reason the other models were able to go without an EGR system. I have a2000 2rz with lce headers and cat back exhaust and a new cat all from lce. If i were to do the egr delete for my truck do you think i would pose a risk to the HG??

 

If yours came with egr...the ecm is programmed to best work with as much oem as possible.

The 5vz's and the later 2rz's dont have the same exhaust layout as mine and most 3rz's...

Really not an expert, but the egr maybe greatly affected by the headers...

that original cast iron header may of been part of the problem....I believe 2001's and later they got rid of that...

however some of these owners have been complaining about having to buy two fairly expensive cats now.


All I know is I wanted to get rid of it......but I didnt want to have to do another head gasket on this truck for ever....
so I didnt risk it.

I was afraid.....


I was seeing a pattern with these....once they get above 160K ~ 170K....a lot start having cooling challenges...
way too many HG jobs......the 5vz's and later 4bangers dont seem to have as many problems...
or maybe they dont last as long as these.

You have to take care of a 5vz.....a lot just run these cheaper ones into the ground.
....or handed down to a 16yr old kid.