[Update] Wheeler's brake lines, is this a problem?

Got from and rear brake lines from Wheelers off road. The rear has 2 different fittings, driver's side has 1 notch and passenger get side has 2. Fitment was a little off but I managed to get the clips in. I'm concerned that the driver's side fitting is shorter than the passenger get side and the metal brake line coming from the front doesn't screw in as deep as the one in the passenger side. It feels like it seats well but I haven't bled the system yet to check for leaks.

Anyone notice this on their wheelers extended lines? Fittings we're hand tightened with the mounting brackets loose which makes me pretty sure it's not cross threaded.


@Wheeler's Off-Road Inc can you chime in if you have any information too?

Thanks guys, always appreciate the feedback.




[Update]

After @Wheeler's Off-Road Inc responded I figured I was good to go. I finished up installing the front (much easier) and bled the system. Since I have a Sport 4x4 and I was by myself I opted for the vacuum bleeder. I followed a guide online that recommended covering the threads of the bleeder in some thick grease. I applied a vacuum then cracked the bleeders open. It was clear that I was getting air from the line but also from around the vacuum seal and bleeder threads. I kept the pressure above 5 mmhg to always have a vacuum and had no issues at all. Went through 2 bottles of Toyota OEM fluid.

After the bleed the pedal didn't feel much different. Since the brake system is only as good as it's weakest link, I checked the rotors, pads and drums. The front rotors we're recently replaced with cryo rotors and pads so I focused on the rear. When I spun the drum I noticed it would snag at about the same spot every rotation. At 85k miles I figured it was time to resurface the drums. An hour and $30 later and I had freshly resurfaced drums.

I cleaned the shoes and drum assembly with brake cleaner. I sanded the shoes with some 120 grit paper and beveled down the perimeter of the shoes surface. Make sure to add synthetic brake grease to the contact points of the shoes on the piston and backing plate. Reassembled and pumped the parking brake a few times to reset the shoes. Took it for a test drive and it feels solid. Summary of my experience is check your rear drums if you notice spongy or soft brakes and you ruled out air in your system. I am very pleased with how the job turned out.

 

If they tightened up and are not leaking, I wouldn't give it a second thought. Just keep an eye on it for a week or so.

 

Having read and then viewed the photo, what am I looking at? I'm planning on picking up the same brake lines, I can't see what you're talking about though really.

 

I think he’s talking about where the new line threads onto the male threads of the hard line fitting. The bottom one in the pic appears to not be threaded on as far.

 

It looks like you got it. Just check for any leaks. But you should be good to go.
The bracket itself has two different style holes in it. Which requires two different fittings. You basically just figure which side is which, plug, and play.

 

As @Rujack said, the 'male ends' from the stock metal lines thread into the the extended brake lines. In that picture, the topmost line (which is passenger side) threads in further than the one on the bottom (driver side). I wasn't sure of it since it felt like I only got 3-4 turns until it seated. Stock lines seated much deeper and got almost the full tread depth.

 

Ah gotcha. yes, the fitting there is smaller but still seats well and should not leak one bit due to the rubber bushing inside seating the actual inner line.

 

I didn't match up holes but followed the two pieces of instructions that came with the kit. Both said to use the '2 notched' fitting on the passenger get side and the '1 notched' fitting on the driver side. I think they are oriented correctly. My concern is if there is enough bite from just 3-4 threads on the driver's side fitting since stock uses quite a bit more. If this is normal and people run this without issue then I'll just watch it for a bit. It already blows my mind that even the stock lines can handle that much pressure to stop that much weight. My naivete in braking systems makes me question a fitting that screws in with fewer than stock threads.

I would normally just make sure it's tight and be done with it. I am planning a multi State road trip soon so I would like to find any issues sooner rather than later. I'm taking the whole family in the truck and don't want to worry about brake while we are gone.

 

You posted this while I was typing my other reaponse. I'll just make sure it's snug and test it out. Thanks.

 

No worries at all! Tested and proven. There is enough bite there for the bushing to properly seal and transfer the brake fluid.

 

I supposed I should ask why one is indeed shorter? Why is that in the design as oppose to equal sized fittings? Curious, thanks.

 

Great question: Just something the manufacturer deemed best due to the matching fitting having a deeper inset and having leaking issues by bottoming out the male oem piece equaling too many threads. So they went the slightly shorter route ensure fit and seal.

 

Thanks for the info Wheeler's, now let's get going on them holiday sales.

 

The Thanksgiving sale is approaching.