Upgrade advise for 1st Gen

I blew the voice coil on one of my current 10s... I've also had to replace the Mono amp once already. Yes, I know you get what you pay for.

But I ordered a new set of the PA Edge 10s. When I replace them, I'm going to ditch the rear door speakers and passive Xovers to run the tweeters/mids on seperate channels.

Still going to upgrade the system across the board, but if the rearrangement works, it may make it a lower priority allowing me to collect the componants over a few months.

This might (will) even allow me to maybe (definately) make componant selections from a higher quality/price point than I was originally thinking

 

I mean, if you gotta stay in a narrow ecosystem

SI TM65



and M25 is pretty hard to beat for the coin. It will embarrass the C6 at less than half the duckets




A couple BM11s for good measure




Some SIQ eye candy

 

That's why I started looking into other options. I'd rather use an external DSP anyways for better control, I just need a decent input. But I don't think the 15+ year old 80prs' are worth that.

I fully support going front-only. I've done that in all my vehicles for the past 15 years. It was what got me into the 80prs. At the time, it was one of the few that did it internally.

Currently, life has gotten in the way, and my install hasn't happened yet, so I've been using the hu's internal amp in network mode to get by.

As long as your current amp is capable of typical DSP stuff like frequency adjustment and crossovers, it'll work just fine.

Though they're also getting older, and lack DSP functionality, I love running alpine pdx v9 5 channel amps for this purpose. They're small, variable power rails mean they make rated power with any ohm load, and easy to stash under the seats.

 

@rob feature you mentioned Zapco ST series are Meh.

How meh is meh? lol

Looking at
Zapco ST-4X-DSP-III
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...channel-100w-rms-x-4-class-a-b-amplifier.html

AND
Zapco ST-1500XM-III
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...1500xm-iii-monoblock-1600w-rms-amplifier.html


Now that I know Zapco is still around, it would be kind of nostalgic. lol

 

Yes listen to Rob and do active. He recommended I do that as well and it’s been awesome. Sounds so much better once you figure out the tuning.

im currently running my mids and highs active both front and rear. I am using a JBL 8 Channel X 50W that has a built in DSP so I can use a laptop to tune it. I got the amp refurbished on eBay for half of retail price.

that with my SLD 10” ported running on a bottom of the line JL audio 500W amp sounds amazing. Way better than if I bought high end components with passives.

I used one of those cheap mics from partexpress that connects to an iPhone and uses a Spectrum Analyzer app to tune it.

I am using Wave Core tweeters in the front with SB Acoustics SB17 woofers (another Rob recommendation). Idk if they would fit in a first gen front door. In the rear doors I have CDT audio braxial speakers actively crossed as well. The CDT’s are definitely the weak point of my system. They needed way more eq’ing than the front speakers did and still don’t sound as good.

 

They're not bad. They're Zapco's offshore volume solutions. Not to be confused with their high end offerings. Most will be happy enough probably.

 

They're interesting from more than a nostalgia point. They aren't that much bigger than the amps I'm running. I could make some pretty minor modifications to the amp rack on top of the box to make them fit.

I'd assume they'd be WAY better than what I've got lol.

 

Speaking of the box... really wish there was a lighter option than the 100 pounds of mdf sitting back there lmfao.

 

get a Panny Bottlehead and stare at nostalgia all day long. You said you were looking for a double DIN

 

Jeeesus lmao.

I was also sayin I'd like ta trim weight from 100 pounds (full sheet) of 3/4 mdf.

That would just move the weight savings farther forward.

 

For future refrence

Zapco ST-4X DSP $399
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...-95w-rms-x-4-class-ab-amplifier-with-dsp.html

Zapco ST-1350 XM II $499
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...co-monoblock-1350w-rms-class-d-amplifier.html
________________________

Zapco ST-4X-DSP-III $599
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...channel-100w-rms-x-4-class-a-b-amplifier.html

Zapco ST-1500XM-III $599
https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...1500xm-iii-monoblock-1600w-rms-amplifier.html

 

Fiberglass could slim down some of the weight. Many people have been happy with the skar box
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/...fer-enclosure-VS-1X10TOY-TACOM-2016-UP-DBLCAB

 

Not many options for pre-made boxes for 1st gen. I'd rather build my own and package it with an amp rack.

Fiberglass is definately an option. But I've rarely done anything with it. One of my fears is that I'd do it too thin, or screw it up in some other way that I wouldn't know until it's all in the truck and f'd up somehow

 

Looking for a head unit. Man, it's hard to find a head unit with a volume knob these days.

Looking for:
Double din
Android Auto
With volume knob
Multimedia only

Only ones I'm finding are Chinese off brands and +$1200

I did find these

Stinger Elev8 8" Touchscreen Car Stereo with Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, Bluetooth, GPS Navigation, SiriusXM Ready, Audio Output & HDMI Rear Input, Single/Double DIN Mounting UN1880

$329 Stinger Elev8 8" Touchscreen Car Stereo with Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, Bluetooth, GPS Navigation, SiriusXM Ready, Audio Output & HDMI Rear Input, Single/Double DIN Mounting UN1880

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVDFH9J

Stinger HEIGH10 10 Multimedia Car Stereo 1024 x 600 HD Display. Apple Car Play, Android Auto, SiriusXM Ready, Bluetooth, TOSLINK Audio Output & HDMI Rear Input, Single/Double DIN Mounting

$599 Stinger HEIGH10 10 Multimedia Car Stereo 1024 x 600 HD Display. Apple Car Play, Android Auto, SiriusXM Ready, Bluetooth, TOSLINK Audio Output & HDMI Rear Input, Single/Double DIN Mounting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083VRBKMF

They have decent reviews. But, not quite as good as I'd like to see.

 

I have a Joying HU I used for a while in my 2nd gen. It worked well and actually made the stock speakers even sound decent. Only reason I switched it out for a pioneer dvd was for my kids to watch movies on road trips.

 

Rearranging begins.

The bigger one was in the back door. Moving it up to replace the smaller one that was in the front door. That'll be a pain in the ass, to get it to fit between the window regulator and the door panel. But I think it'll be worth it.

Ditching the passive crossovers. Good thing too. I had them laying in the bottom of the door. The water crossings took their toll... they were a corroded mess.

Ran out of day light. And need to grab some MDF to make spacer rings to mount the speakers.

I think it'll sound pretty good, for now. The independent gain control between the mids and the highs alone should make a massive difference.

Still working out what the new interation system will look like, but I've got some solid ideas.

The replacement subs should be here tomorrow. So, I should be able to get this system working again after work.

 

if you're doing water crossings and submerging gear, i would absolutely recommend marine-grade gear for your entire install. it's more ruggedized for direct water contact. most automotive gear that's been recommended so far is not.

 

I never actually get water in the cab... well... not yet anyway. The doors have apperantly gotten water in them but not that much. The crossovers were just laying in the bottom of the door, on top of the drain holes.

I'm not too worried about it.

 

Now to start collecting for the new system. I think this is what I'm going to do.




The title of the 6 channel amp (left top) says 4 channel. But the column on the right is correct = 6 channel

 

3-way front stage...nice! That's gonna be sick!