Upgrade sound system keeping stock head unit

I think the one thing you'll lose is the center dash screen info from the HU, like media info and such. I don't think there's a way around that, but the Maestro should make the steering wheel controls and such work with an aftermarket HU.

 

I have a Pioneer w/Maestro and I get the media info in the center dash. I'm not sure about all of the Entune functions though. The one thing I can think of that I lost is the krappy Econo app provided by Entune.

 

Hey guys, I have purchased all the stuff that I’m gonna be putting in. Probably getting it installed by this Friday.
Here’s the list of what I bought
Infinity kappa 93ix 6x9
Infinity kappa 60csx 6.5
Jl Audio 300/4 v2 slash amplifier
2 Alpine Type R SWR T 10
Alpine MRX M110 amplifier
Genius DSP GB2600B
Killmat
Audio control Epicenter
Kicker 4- Gauge OFC Amp Wiring Kit
I will keep you guys updated as soon as I start with the installation Thanks everyone for their help.

 

Hey guys I finished installing the system in my tacoma and it turn out awesome!! I wish I could upload a video so you guys can hear it. I kept the stock head unit and it sounds awesome

 

Thanks! I spent the better part of the last week looking up aftermarket HUs for my 22' non JBL and this is by far the best looking / best fitting I've seen.

I'm not very technologically advanced, so I'll end up finding a place to do the install, but from what I've read, I'll need the Maestro RR to retain all the steering wheel functions?

 

Yep, you’ll need that.
If you lived close to me, I could do the install for you.

 

Random, but I just setup the Toyota app (i like the remote commands to start, unlock, etc). In order to activate it, I had to go to the "apps" section on the stock HU.

Are you still able to retain those remote controls from the app with an aftermarket HU?

 

I don't know. I have a 2016. Maybe someone with a newer MY will answer.

 

Sorry to re bump this thread. I just got off of the phone with Crutchfield and for whatever reason, they were pretty adamant that the Pioneer 7600NEX wouldn’t sit flush because it’s a “floating display” (obviously everything I’ve read / seen on multiple threads here says otherwise). I included a screenshot of the other items I was told I’d need in order for this unit to work properly. Figured I’d post it up and see if I need anything else.

I’m ordering the OEM+ audio system too, so I wanted to make sure I have all of proper adapters for that to work properly.

 

Technically they are right, it is a floating display system, but the display just happens to fit inside the bezel of your dash.

 

@lolnn This unit fits perfectly, the picture I have in an earlier post shows my fitment, I could've gotten in closer but was over messing around in the dash on sunny day. Find some shade and take your time, it will fit. I do recommend either removing that raceway behind the headunit or finding a right angle USB-C cord, you will torque the connection trying to cram it back in the dash.

 

Sorry to resurrect this thread again but I'm curious why you recommend getting a FiX for a non-JBL setup rather than swapping the HU. I've been trying to figure out an audio upgrade path for my 2021 non-JBL truck for quite a while now. Would I just use the FiX between my factory HU and a new amp/speakers? I'd originally looked at the LC7i but it seems like the FiX is more capable for our crappy stock HUs?

 

Looking at a new head unit but ordering the OEM+ doesn’t make sense. The OEM+ is literally engineered and tuned to connect to your factory radio.

Because I still don’t know what you lose when you pull the factory radio and toss in an aftermarket and Maestro. I haven’t seen anyone confirm you still have access to vehicle settings, warnings, and features.

I also feel like there isn’t a good replacement being made yet and I have been satisfied with the factory radio’s functionality, aesthetic, and features like like voice assistant. Wireless Carplay would be nice. Two USB connections to the radio would be nice, lossless file playback would be nice, (stuff I have in my other vehicle).

What the factory radio doesn’t do is sound good. It’s about my only real complaint. So all things considered, for me, it was a better option to fix the one real complaint I had instead of go through the whole routine of settling for a 7” screen or trying to adapt a floating one, or buying something shitty and Chinese purely for aesthetics, and roll the dice on what may or may not become disabled as a consequence.

I’ve tried several products to find a solution and hands down, no ifs ands or buts, the JL Audio FiX is the answer. Period, The end. It completely solves every problem, LoC for amps, fixes the tune, gives you an output EQ… it’s an awesome product and the way to go for OEM retention on Toyota radios.

 

I feel the same way. I am really curious about this device. I have the LC7i but I still don't think it really cleans up the sound. Sounds like your happy with this. What are the other items you replaced? I've done everything but replace the HU.

 

The LC7i would be great for an OEM stereo that doesn’t need correction, like older factory systems. More and more the new ones have some kind of tune you don’t have access to, like the new Toyota Entune radios and the LC7i just isn’t the right product for those since it doesn’t “clean up” anything, it just acts as a LoC with AccuBASS. The new Toyota radio needs EQ, time, and attenuation corrections as well, all of which the FiX does.

The other stuff I installed (This is a 2020 4Runner):

Processing:
JL FiX-82 - I wanted the digital out
TwK-88 - DSP
Audio Control Epicenter Micro - Giggles

Tweeters - Audison Voce AV 1.1 on an Audio Control ACM 2.300 amplifier

Front 6x9 - Audison AP 690 component woofers.
Rear Coaxials - Audison APX 6.5

All door speakers are on an Audison AP8.9 BIT, channels bridged to 130W @4 Ohms x4. I originally used the BIT as my DSP but I hated it, so now it’s just used for amplification. I like the size so I kept it instead of installing a Audio Control LC-4.800

Subwoofers - 2X Sundown SD-4 10 D4 on a JL HD1200/1 (the only mono amplifier I could find that delivers this kind of power at 4 ohms), custom box

I also have a Gen2 Tacoma with a Kenwood Excelon XR stereo, JL HD900/5 and Audio Control ACM-2.300 amplifiers (tweeters again), JL TwK-88 and Hertz Mille PRO speakers all around with JBL 10” subs in a custom box.

Two systems, different animals but you can see a trend right? JL, Audio Control, Hertz/Audison.

 

That's an impressive setup. I'll bet it sounds amazing. I'm a little more conservative but yet still want it to sound good. I also don't want amps and DSPs and other things all over the truck. Right now the smaller NVX amp is in my dash and when it gets hot, it shuts down, so I need to relocate that. I'm an old metal head and I had a fairly simple system in my other truck that did the trick for me. Apline type X speakers, Pioneer HU, with an 800W Alpine amp and just an under seat powered sub. Sounded a whole lot better than this and really the only difference is a little less wattage in my amp and, obviously the HU. Can you suggest a more basic setup that I won't have to rewire the speakers. I don't need the 800W and my estimation is if I went over 500W or so I would need to rewire.

 

What’s currently in your truck speaker wise? Which NVX amp do you have? Do you have or plan to add a subwoofer?

 

NVX VADM2 Amp

Alpine R-S69C.2

Hertz DCX 165.3 in the rear

I have an Alpine powered under seat sub. I was considering putting something behind the back seats since I really don't keep too much of anything back there like I thought I might when I first did the powered sub.

 

If you can live without the AMP, see my spoiler parts list here. Dynomat is a must for the doors because those front 6x9s woofers hit pretty hard.