Upgrade tires/suspension or downgrade mods?

Interesting considering what the usual response is on the board about spacer lifts. Subbing...because I want to lift....now I am not sure....need to see how this turns out.

 

Other tire manufacturers may make a load range C tire in the 285/75

 

Mine felt fine with just the spacer lift but I think you'll feel the effects more offroad. I had it on from when my truck was new to around 35k.

 

I hate to be the dick and say this but you built a truck and trucks are supposed to ride like trucks not cushy cars. Newer 1/2 ton and smaller trucks don't haul nearly as well as they did in the past because yuppies wanting a cush ride and trucks not to feel like trucks. Anytime you modify something from stock you'll be making compromises that's just the way it is.

 

Just because it's a truck doesnt mean it has to be uncomfortable. Being this is my third tacoma and this issue only coming up after modifying, I'm aware that I caused it. I'm just trying to figure out how to remedy it now, whether it's going back towards stock or changing out parts. It's a pain in the ass either way.

 

I agree, I think tires are a good place to start.

 

You want Mercedes ride with a GM price tag.

 

Yes that's exactly it

 

Knew I'd catch some shit over this post but I've been back and forth on what to do for a few months. Read a lot of threads on the ride quality jumping from OME to King, Load E vs Load C tires, what gears to go with, and just not sure I feel like spending $6k to get the truck back to where it accelerates and handles like stock, if those changes would even do that for me. I would probably regret it but I've also considered selling my front bumper, winch, and skids so I can ditch the OME kit without feeling the need to get some coilovers that'll mostly be wasted on my pavement pounding. YES I'M BEING INDECISIVE ON THIS DAMNIT...y'all my tacoma frands, I welcome opinions and I suppose insults as well, so long as they're in jest.

 

Gotta pay to play. If you fork over the $$$$$ for some well tuned Kings, fox, ADS, Radflows etc it'll be wayyy better than you have but still need the spring rate to carry the load. It's all compromises just where your compromises lie is the crossroads you are at. You can't have your cake and eat it too so to speak with a capable heavy rig and butter smooth stock ride.

 

I hear ya, all of this started because I backed into our camper's tongue and messed up my stock bumper, thought oh well I might as well get a steel bumper to replace it. Then I had to get a front bumper and sliders to match, then suspension...it's a wormhole. I won't lie though, it was fun.

I've been looking at extended travel kings with resis, just not planning to buy them until I have the cash. Seems silly to get such a nice suspension just to combat the busted ass roads here since my OME kit does fine offroad so long as I'm going slow.

 

I ride your roads and my Billie 6112s with 700# springs aren't horrible. If you go the high end shock route get them from a company that will talk with you first and valve/tune the shocks for you over the stock valving it'll make a difference in how they handle. Also they can recc a good spring rate for you and get it all in one swing vs going through this again with high end stuff.

 

Out of curiosity, do you run your sway bar?

 

Nope. If you know the pass on 40 through asheville I will run that at 70 or so no problems and have had to make some evasive maneuvers without it and did just fine. If you are still running yours take it off and see if it helps.

 

I think I'm gonna try that, I swear it felt better the couple days I had it off when I replaced my control arms a couple months back but I didn't give it long enough to find out.

 

With the way it works it's essentially a torsion spring between the 2 wheels so when one drops or bumps into something in the road it stiffens up the suspension so to speak and sends some of that force to the other wheel. Off it'll let each wheel move independantly and not affect the other or have an added "spring rate" to the suspension.

This is a very layman's explanation of it. So don't take it as a true definition or science of how sway bars work.

 

I haven’t regeared mine yet. Mines a 3rd gen so anything over stock size makes it suck more. But honestly it’s not that bad. I just towed a 3500 lb camper through the N GA mountains and it did pretty well. I don’t think your powertrain would have any problems. My 2013 was a beast. I’ll probably wind up regearing this one to 4.88, even if I was back to stock tire size.

The tire and wheel combo I’m running is now noticeably lighter and easier to turn than the E’s on Pro wheels.

 

Of course it does. Most suspension systems will do fine if you're going slow. There's very little dampening needed for slow stuff. That's why a lot of cheap buggies don't spend a lot in shocks. It's mainly spring rate to achieve ride height.

If this is your application, then you don't necessarily need a resi. Sure, it's a nice feature to have but it's not required. What you need is adjustability, or the ability to alter your valving according to your desired ride comfort. A higher end IFP shock will get you that. Maybe even a Fox Performance Series 2.0 for the more budget friendly users?