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Upgrade to a Derale Transmission Cooler!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by override, Mar 16, 2020.

  1. Mar 16, 2020 at 3:08 PM
    #1
    override

    override [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If you have any questions or want different pictures feel free to ask :)

    So this thread was going to incorporate a YouTube video I was making of a "How-To" but thanks to my camera freezing up on me mid record several times I did not get the full take. Rather now I will just make this a parts list, with some pictures, for anyone who doesn't want to do the leg work figuring out what parts to get.

    This install is on my 2015 Tacoma 4x4 Sport w/ factory towing package and cooler. I imagine this can be incorporated with other years and different setups. If you do not have the factory cooler then you can come off of the radiator hook ups instead, you would just need more hose.

    Also I purchased my parts separately rather than getting the Derale kit for two main reasons:

    1) The kit included thermostat is junk and many reports have been made of it leaking or breaking at the threads.
    2) The kit included hose is also reported as being junk with some claims of it breaking and leaking fluid.

    Parts Needed:

    - Derale Atomic Cool 13705
    - Derale Inline Thermostat 35020
    - Russell 624163 Twist-Lok 90 Deg
    - Russell 614805 90 Deg. Swivel Adapter
    - Vibrant Performance Heater Hose 20425
    - Uxcell M6 20mm x 10mm Rubber Mounts
    - Permatex 56521 Thread Sealant
    - In-Line Fuse Holder (will want a 10a fuse)
    - Fluid Transfer Pump
    - 1/16 x 1 1/2 Aluminum Angle

    A few things to note:

    1) If you have the oem cooler you will utilize the stock spring clamps to secure the hoses. If not you will need either worm gear clamps or spring clamps, should be able to find these at your local auto-parts store.

    2) You will also need about 5' of wire to run to your battery/fuse box or wherever you decide to tie this into, a relay is not necessary but can be used, I ran an in-line fuse holder with a 10a fuse.

    3) If you opt to forgo the thermostat then a switch will be your other option along with whatever means you take to mount and wire it. Also you will not need the 614805 Swivel 90, just get two 624163 Twist-Lok 90's.

    4) If you intend to do a flush, find a guide on here and expect to purchase at least 4 gallons of ATF to perform this job, flush 3 gallons and leave the 4th to fill everything back up.

    5) I still do not know how I feel about the thermostat being hard-lined, I have ordered one of these to move the thermostat down into the hose so it isn't rigid.

    6) You will need to get your Derale Cooler top bracket made and mock up the mounting so you can get the proper hole alignment marked for the bottom bracket as the truck brace you drill into sits at an angle so the bottom bracket is offset.

    7) The rubber mounts are not necessary but highly recommended so the cooler is not rigid and potentially cause stress cracks down the road. The mounts seem best between the truck frame and the aluminum angle with the cooler mounted straight to the brackets you make.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    *If anyone catches it I do know that I mounted my thermostat on the outlet side, that was a mistake on my part. The thermostat should be mounted on the inlet side, though I honestly don't think it matters, only issue I could see is your fan will cycle more often.*

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If you do not want to rigid mount the thermostat like this then you will need a -6an to 3/8 barb as shown below.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2020
  2. Mar 16, 2020 at 7:17 PM
    #2
    Musubi3

    Musubi3 Well-Known Member

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    Cool project. Sounds like you're replacing the stock one?
    I recently had a TruCool transmission cooler installed in series with my stock one. Originally I was going to install it myself. Got lazy and just paid my mech to do it. I also originally wanted the stock one replaced, but I'm good with how it runs now. On average I'm getting 15 deg cooler temps when I'm on the go with my typical weekend load of adventure gear.
     
  3. Mar 16, 2020 at 11:08 PM
    #3
    override

    override [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yessum, I replaced the stock cooler with this one. So far I have seen a good drop in temps, cruising around town at 30-55 MPH I am seeing between 125-135F on the hwy at 65-75 MPH I am seeing 150-153F as a good constant. My reason for the upgrade is towing my SXS through the hills, my trip to Colorado I was seeing temps up to 220+F loaded down trailer and truck and pulled over a few times to let temps come down.
     
    Lord Helmet likes this.
  4. Mar 17, 2020 at 9:41 AM
    #4
    jbaker1976

    jbaker1976 It's always Taco Tuesday

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    I have the Derale Atomic on my air cooled vw. It works great. I added a valve to divert the cold oil back into the engine until it gets warmed up. Owners with an automatic trans in an area thar has really cold temperatures need this valve. Have you ever had a transmission that shifted like crap when its cold? This helps. Summit Racing sell the same one and other brands.
    https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1724.htm
     
    nudavinci64 and override [OP] like this.
  5. Mar 17, 2020 at 10:16 AM
    #5
    override

    override [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I live in Texas so I wouldn't know about cold temps but thank you for the advice for all the others!
     
  6. Mar 17, 2020 at 10:26 AM
    #6
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    There is an optimal temp for trans fluid. the 160-180*F temp range. This will allow the evaporation of moisture and allow it to flow properly. You can overcool it (not super likely in warmer climates). Im in socal and plan on replacing the little stock aux cooler with a bigger one and putting a Tstat in to allow for quicker fluid warm up and stabler temps.
     
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  7. Mar 17, 2020 at 10:46 AM
    #7
    override

    override [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You are correct on optimal temps, I am pretty sure all of these trucks have the ATF running through the radiator to assist bring fluid to temp so as long as you don't bypass that I would think most should be good. The bypass valve that @jbaker1976 mentioned would be good use for you cold weather guys, here in Texas though, especially in the summer, I have seen my temps approach 200F with no load just cruising down the hwy.

    Also for anyone who cares to know, the temps I am reporting are through my HeadUnit from the OBD port, I do not know where it grabs that temp from but I would assume it is pan temp. The actual fluid coursing through the tranny will be much hotter so the lower temps I am seeing don't really concern me at all.
     
  8. Mar 17, 2020 at 9:03 PM
    #8
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    I did similar but less intricate to my 2010 DCLB many years ago.

    On mine, I totally omitted the use of trans fluid going into the engine coolant radiator. I did not install an electric fan. I did not install a thermal switch or device to control fluid temps. I did convert the oem trans cooler into a power steering cooler.

    No true cold days here. Even when first driving away at each ride, transmission acts fine. Typical is 165*f max, but often about 160 after warmed up. If cruising on the highway, temp drops down towards 145*f. Using Mobil 1 ATF for a long time now.
     
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  9. Mar 18, 2020 at 9:42 AM
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    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Using the OEM Aux cooler for a PS cooler.... interesting!
     
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  10. Mar 18, 2020 at 9:11 PM
    #10
    override

    override [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's a very interesting use for the oem cooler, something I wouldn't of thought of. I'm curious though, is cooling the steering fluid something that is needed but generally over looked or just an extra measure to provide longevity?
     
  11. Mar 18, 2020 at 10:59 PM
    #11
    Flake Boost

    Flake Boost FORCED

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  12. Mar 18, 2020 at 11:23 PM
    #12
    override

    override [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Those kits look nice, those coolers look like they might be more difficult to get a good mounting position though. If you do it post it up!
     
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  13. Mar 18, 2020 at 11:41 PM
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    Flake Boost

    Flake Boost FORCED

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    They make these too https://trucool.com/products/tru-cool-lpd
     
  14. Mar 19, 2020 at 12:47 AM
    #14
    bs63366

    bs63366 Well-Known Member

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    I think i might be needing to do this, I have noticed that on a large hill out here that the speed limit is slow on that I wind up getting up there on my trans temps. How hard would it be to add the cold weather bypass on the first cooler? Is it just pipe it inline, or is there additional hookups on it?
     
  15. Mar 19, 2020 at 6:57 AM
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    gasgasman

    gasgasman Well-Known Member

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    Great write up!

    I just added a transmission cooler to mine.

    IMG_20191227_110445805.jpg
    IMG_20191227_110457301.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2020
  16. Mar 19, 2020 at 3:26 PM
    #16
    Micbt25

    Micbt25 Well-Known Member

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    Where did get those black mounting brackets, they’re sharp looking. Mine cooler is a little larger so it was a bit tighter, so I used the brackets included in the Tru-Cool kit. My anti-vibration mounts are on order and will install and replace the current bolts once they arrive.

    96836544-390F-4638-B646-A5F79E235F42.jpg 440A0332-D249-4B48-BF6F-C2058A1F06D2.jpg
     
  17. Mar 19, 2020 at 3:36 PM
    #17
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    3rd gens come stock with a power steering cooler if that means anything.
     
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  18. Mar 19, 2020 at 4:57 PM
    #18
    override

    override [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Looks to be just some good ole' aluminum stock (angle and strap) that has been sized up and spray painted black.

    Shouldn't be hard, just need more hose and clamps. The basis would be run your bypass lines to the cooler and your other lines from the radiator to the bypass. When the temps are low it will circulate normal through your radiator and when its hot enough to bypass the valve will open up to let fluid pass through cooler.

    Thank You, Your's came out nice too!

    I will definitely be looking into re-using my oem cooler for this then, shouldn't be too hard just running the extra hose and adding a bunch of PS fluid. lol
     
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  19. Mar 19, 2020 at 5:25 PM
    #19
    ARB1977

    ARB1977 It’s a beaut Clark

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    79CCEACF-C09B-4783-8641-B06D60504CA5.jpg AAAD74E3-AA2B-4A22-9852-93E80C86E6CA.jpg Installed this prototype pan from pml towards the end of last summer. Their available for sale now. It did add about three qrts of extra fluid. I haven’t done any temp checks yet.
     
  20. Mar 19, 2020 at 5:46 PM
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    Micbt25

    Micbt25 Well-Known Member

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    Any leaks or issues. I see that since the lip is thicker you have to use different bolts, did they come with the kit?
     
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