Upgraded studs for TRD/Magnuson Supercharger tensioner

Studs (yes)....... Tensioner bolt (no)

 

I’ll just do the studs. If they were going to make new nuts for the studs I may be interested in that.

 

Can you point out where it is? Sorry, fresh outta work. Any functional benefit or just convenient?

 

I'm just interested in the studs at this point.... unclear if there is a feeling that there is a problem with the current nut used?​

 

I would like to stay with just the studs.

 

It's located at the blue arrow - the bolt is attaching the small idler on the tensioner arm.



There's no functional or performance upgrade - it's just extra insurance against snappage of the bolt holding that idler

 

I'd say the nuts are fine. There's not a ton of torque on them when you tighten them down, so the grade doesn't matter so much.

 

That said, I could gauge interest here again - I could source new off-the-shelf nuts of a higher grade for everyone. Who would be interested in that?

 

If the stock nuts are fine it’s not really a big deal for me. No need to over think it I guess since the studs seem to be the main issue

 

I think some of you guys are under valuing the quality of Toyota hardware. The nuts/bolts and hardware generally used on a Toyota especially for functional & reliability stuff is high quality, high grade, flanged stuff usually, which is better grade and quality than what you can get at most hardware stores. There is no need for aftermarket nuts or bolts here. The stud on the other hand, is not part of the original spec for the vehicle or engine, and I do agree that it is a highly taxed item, especially if there are threads exposed at the points of shear force. I hope we can get high quality rolled threaded custom made studs that don't have exposed threads.... and the rest of the hardware that came from Toyota is more than up to the task. IMO of course!

 

no tensioner bolt for me.

 

Just the studs for me

 

Studs only for me as well.

 

ill just take the studs.

 

A progress update, four points for everyone to read over:

First, I've decided to shorten the window for participation to close on Monday. I decided 2 weeks was a bit long, and there hasn't been anyone trickling in today. So, if you know anyone who is SCed who might want these, send them to this thread and let them know it closes Monday.

Second, based on the feedback so far, no one has indicated an interest in the upgraded tensioner idler bolt, so I will not be doing a run of those as part of the group buy. I agree with @racebug68 that the supplied Toyota hardware is great in almost every case, but the studs that are the subject of this group buy seem to be a custom fastener that was a one-off low-quality part.

Third, here's a picture of some studs with threads removed. This will be the item sent out to confirmed buyers, pending a fitment test for final dimension adjustments on my end. Doing an additional fitment test may add a bit of time on to the group buy but I'll keep that to a minimum (like half a week hopefully).



Fourth, I talked with the shop about getting rolled threads. They told me to pound sand in a humorous way by telling me they'd have to buy $6500 in equipment to roll threads for me. I went back and forth on contacting a new shop, however I do really trust this shop since my best friend has used them often and he highly recommended them. So, I wanted to propose NOT going with rolled threads based on the following.

Here are some macro shots of brand new stock studs (thank you @XPOTRPR for providing those) compared to the prototype studs. The prototypes are noticeably better quality, and that makes me a lot less nervous about not going with rolled threads.

If some aren't happy with cut threads, let me know and I won't be hurt if you feel you need to drop out of the group buy.

Have a great day.

Stock stud:



New stud:

 

I’m fine with cut threads

 

I knew that if they didn't have rolled threads already then they didn't have the equipment to do it... but my question and ask was to see if they had connections in the local industry for subcontracting the rolled threads part. But the response of pounding sand is pretty much what I thought. Too bad nobody has a 'friend of a friend' in this case to get the job done with what would probably be less profit. Even with standard threads, if the shank portion of the stud is taking the shear force it will be substantially stronger than original.


Edit:
Will you be able to confirm the fitment of the studs, to ensure that the threads don't bottom out in the front cover? This could take a few iterations... The goal is to have the stud thread in far enough that the shank is contacting the first thread of the engine cover and binding there, without the stud bottoming. The ideal scenario would be to use a carbide bur or drill bit, and remove the first 1 or 2 threads from the engine cover, such that the stud screws in that much farther, and the shear point is further away from the threads and fully on the shank. Hope that makes sense. This applies for both ends of the stud - make the load bearing portion the shank, not the threads.

 

Yes - that is my plan, to test-fit the prototype until I can make sure the stud is a couple of milimeters from bottoming out. If it does not fit in its current form, I will cut one of the stock studs until that fits, and use that to determine the exact dimension for the front cover-side of the stud. Then the machine shop will have the perfect dimensions.

Interesting idea on removing a few of the threads, I can put that as a recommendation on Page 1. Curious though how one would do that, would that not damage the threads that are left over past the drilled hole and make it hard to install the studs?

 

very carefully A carbide burr or sanding roll cartridge would be my choice, careful and slowly just to remove enough that the stud threads in a tiny bit further. You could chase the first few threads with a tap if needed.

 

OK - I'll make it a recommendation with the disclaimer that "you should have all the right tools and know how to do this properly to not bugger up the threads"